A few general questions

[kistner]

So I picked up this AX10 in a lot of rcs I bought.


I made it work today!

My questions are:
I put a Mamba Max Pro in it with a 25.5 motor (it's what I had laying around). It goes nice and slow, at what I'd consider crawler speed. But it can roll backwards. What setting will prevent this?
Reverse works but requires a 'double tap'. It seems I'd prefer to not have that for crawling? Or do I?
Any other Castle settings I should be addressing when I get to that?

Thanks for any info and suggestions!

And by the way, I have tons of RC experience but almost none of it is crawling. Typically we race up and down the street, go over jumps, etc. This is all new to me.

[indybama]

There should be a setting for drag brake, which will keep it from rolling in nuetral on a hill, depending on the rate u set it too. I believe u can also change the fwd/rev setting as well. Its been awhile since i was in the mamba max pro settings. But castle has really easy to navigate settings, imo

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by kistner

So I picked up this AX10 in a lot of rcs I bought.





I made it work today!



My questions are:

I put a Mamba Max Pro in it with a 25.5 motor (it's what I had laying around). It goes nice and slow, at what I'd consider crawler speed. But it can roll backwards. What setting will prevent this?

Reverse works but requires a 'double tap'. It seems I'd prefer to not have that for crawling? Or do I?

Any other Castle settings I should be addressing when I get to that?



Thanks for any info and suggestions!



And by the way, I have tons of RC experience but almost none of it is crawling. Typically we race up and down the street, go over jumps, etc. This is all new to me.

I can't be super helpful here as I've never run a Mamba Max Pro. my apologies ahead of time if I make it more confusing.

Check your ESC manual (if you have it) to figure how to navigate to your throttle and drag brake settings.

It sounds like you're in, normal throttle/drag brake mode (full power forward, full reverse with a double tap, no drag brake) on your ESC. Rather than crawl mode (full forward, full single tap reverse, adjustable drag brake power). FWI, these are Traxxas terms. I don't recall what Castle calls these settings.

If you buy a Castle Link chip and download the CL software, it becomes much easier to manage these settings.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

[kistner]

Drag brake,thanks.

In general, for crawling, do you want the double push for reverse?
I was programming a hobbywing for an older rc that my niece drives. I left the double push enabled for that one. It's hard to find parts for that one, any protection is good.

What about ‘punch'? Is that something I should turn down?
If I had to guess I'd probably skip it, the start ups were slow and smooth, no stutters or jerks.

[1fox2go]

yea with the Castle ESCs you need the Castle Link (PC Required) or Castle Field Program card to adjust the settings for the drake brake. Sounds like yours is currently set to brushed race mode

I would say %50-70 drag brake to start and set it to crawler mode, I think that is what gives you instant reverse

Been awhile since I have programmed a Castle, since the Hobbywing 1080 came out its all ive been running. The Castle is a good esc though. I have one and its nice so definitely dont just chunk it

I would probably recommend the program card over the Castle Link. That way you can take it with you while crawling to make changes in the field.

[kistner]

@smc-93 I do have a castle link around somewhere. I'm not too concerned about the actual programming, very interested in suggested settings. I do realize the mmp is overkill for crawling and that there are specialized motors for just that. But I did have those handy. I was pleasantly pleased at how smooth it was. And kind of sad when it riolled back down, lol.

[1fox2go]

Pretty sure you want to set it to crawler mode, and then set your drag brake. I would start at %50-70

Crawl mode gives you instant reverse

[kistner]

Thank you.
I will try those settings.

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by kistner

Thank you.
I will try those settings.

To answer your previous question about instant reverse vs. double tap, I'd say it's a matter of how you intend to use the truck, with a little personal preference sprinkled in.

If you're comping, you'd probably want instant reverse so you can throw it in reverse real quick if necessary.

If you're primarily trail driving, or light duty rock crawling, it shouldn't matter too much either way as long as you don't have a habit of slamming the throttle back and forth.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

[kistner]

I put in those setting, definitely an improvement. Thank you.

Another question, I see a lot of guys saying they are running 3s. In my head I think of upping to 3 s for more speed or perhaps in a bigger rc 3s, 4s, or more s for better efficiency (more volts with lower kv motor). What is the advantage in crawling?

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by kistner

I put in those setting, definitely an improvement. Thank you.

Another question, I see a lot of guys saying they are running 3s. In my head I think of upping to 3 s for more speed or perhaps in a bigger rc 3s, 4s, or more s for better efficiency (more volts with lower kv motor). What is the advantage in crawling?

I'm not an expert on the matter and I run almost exclusively 3s, so take this with a grain of salt.

I'm pretty sure the primary benefit to increasing your cell count, at least in a crawler, is having excess power in reserve. If you need wheel speed, a higher cell count battery will have more available. If that makes any sense.

As I said, I'm no expert, I don't want to say too much and lead you down the wrong path.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

[high plains drifter]

Generally speaking, better speed/ high end as well as torque with 3S over 2S.

[kistner]

If the body rolls pretty hard is that a signal that the shocks are working poorly?
They seem super soft to me.

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by kistner

If the body rolls pretty hard is that a signal that the shocks are working poorly?
They seem super soft to me.

that just means your center of gravity is to high

any thing you can do to move the waight lower on the rig will increse performance

i would start by moving the battery down any way its posable and remove those dang springs and run it in full droop



if you had a smaller battery you could mount it on the front upper links that puts the waight mostly on the front axle and gets it off the chassie



this is really were the higher voltage packs come in you can run a smaller 3s or 4s pack and still get the same wattage to the motor but your battery is smaller and lighter and that adds to your performance and you can put it more places like on the links or right on the axle its self

[kistner]

Dang, I suppose I'll have to bail on the hard, heavy New Bright body that I thought looked pretty cool on there.

I do have a couple smaller 3s batteries I could try.

Full droop is a term I had seen mentioned, hadn't gotten around to looking it up. So basically riding low, and the shocks would extend when a wheel gets lifted up - in a sense. I suppose they wouldn't be riding completely flat either.

btw, I appreciate the help

[ferp420]

sway bars really help with those big heavy bodys also your supention geomitry and shock oil

i make my own sway bars out of 3mm spring steel and glue rod ends on then conect them to the axles somehow
i have alot of 1/8 newbright bodys some with alot of tube work
my trx4 based raptor would almost flop over standing still before the sway bar after its a kick but crawler
atlest in my opinion

[ferp420]

honestly that rig is a classic i would build a different rig for that body and keep that thing as a crawler
you could easily build a full custom chassie for under $300 with fully upgraded parts that would work much better under that body

[kistner]

I'll give the sway bar a shot before I completely quit on the Hummer - and the lighter battery.
I do still have the old body that came with it, kind of beat but could work until i find something better

[hnoroian]

Originally Posted by kistner

If the body rolls pretty hard is that a signal that the shocks are working poorly?
They seem super soft to me.

Which way does it roll, and when? Torque twist from the drivetrain. Just a guess but the shocks could need a rebuild, but not likely the main reason, it would only contribute to the roll.

It may be the angle of the picture but the caster on the axles looks way too much too. If so move the upper links closer to the center line of the chassis and the lower ones away from the centerline.

[kistner]

Originally Posted by hnoroian

Which way does it roll, and when? Torque twist from the drivetrain. Just a guess but the shocks could need a rebuild, but not likely the main reason, it would only contribute to the roll.

It may be the angle of the picture but the caster on the axles looks way too much too. If so move the upper links closer to the center line of the chassis and the lower ones away from the centerline.

I would guess some torque twist.
I'll check out my options on moving the links; thanks