Recommendations for first AX10 build

[Wild Willys]

I just received my AX10 and I have been reading throught the posts here for a few weeks. What are a some recommendations for the build process that you would suggest?
I have a set of Maxx shocks available from my other RC truck in the shop, and would like to hear what others think......maybe rate things.

Thanks to all!!

Great Forum!

[txrenegade]

I just built my AX10 which was my first build too. Really cool kit. My one tip though is that on the rear lock-out, one side is reverse thread. I fought with it for a while until I remembered reading about on here a while back. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. Have fun.

[crawls2thewalls]

just read read read..

i was brand new like three months ago too.. the ax-10 is my first crawler..

evrything you could EVER need to know is on this site.. EVERYTHING!!!

[Wild Willys]

Sometime toooooooo much information.

I plan on doing the skid plate mod during the build. I am also considering getting the CKRC STG 2 suspension kit.

Do I need rear steering? I do not have a 3 channel radio to use right now.......

Thanks

[crawls2thewalls]

if your going to be competing in comps.. NO rear steering , its NOT allowed..

i recently saw the ckrc guys and there stage two kit in action at our last comp..

i say yes, it seemed to be a major improvement over stock and a great upgrade on an allready great crawler..

only thing i would add to there kit is some wieght to the rear tires..maybe 3.5 ounces in each rear..

but that's just me, everyone does it different..

also IMO , the stock shocks suck no matter how you set them up..

[jwilli2213]

Originally Posted by Wild Willys

Sometime toooooooo much information.

I plan on doing the skid plate mod during the build. I am also considering getting the CKRC STG 2 suspension kit.

Do I need rear steering? I do not have a 3 channel radio to use right now.......

Thanks

i just finishes the stage 2 its really nice, i am also new to crawlin iv only had my ax10 a month but it was flippin to much so i did the stage 2 kit to lower it and just make it a little better with things like the button head screws that dont get caught up as much and the stering mod with the counter sink screws. and rear stear i dont have it i like not having it. makes some hills harder but i like technical things.

[Neil E]

Do not use the stock drive yokes. if you have not installed them you can install the Traxxas steel drive yokes 4628X in the stock drive shafts. If you drive it hard you will spin the stock yokes out of the shafts. Then you will also need to get Traxxas Long Truck 1/2 shaft pro pack LXJH85.

[crawls2thewalls]

i'm still using the stock drive lines and yokes.. no mods to em at all and i drive it everyday..

don't change em until your driving style makes you..

like myself, you may not need them..

[scorpion26]

I had the problem w/ the yoke twisting out ay the trans side, for now i reveresed the driveline and wrapped the U-joints in about 2-3 layers of electrical tape (too much and you joint won't flex enough). I am going to be getting the traxxas drivelines from a buddy soon though, I will have to pick up the traxxas yokes, also use both set screw holes on the yoke to tighten down the driveline. one last thing, make sure you use a hi-tec 645mg servo or better for steering. Hope you have as much fun as I have been

[Wild Willys]

Thanks for the great suggestions. Is it best to use a 55 turn motor?

[crawls2thewalls]

Originally Posted by Wild Willys

Thanks for the great suggestions. Is it best to use a 55 turn motor?

its really driver preference, but 55t is great for any newb for sure..

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by crawls2thewalls

also IMO , the stock shocks suck no matter how you set them up..

Mine just won the local comp. No problem. Its all about fixing their tiny issues.

I've posted my set up many times.

#1. Buy the Traxxas Ruslter rebuild, use the thin white spacers in between the o-rings to give better contact. LOTS of Associated Green Slime!
#2. Learn to bleed the shocks right. Fill up bleed out major air bubbles. Fill to just under top, push piston shaft all the way up, make sure the oil it to the top of the shock body. Tighten cap. PS the o-ring for the cap goes into the cap, its clearly stated in the manual but everyone messes that up...
#3. 30Wt all the way around.
#4. Install the rubber bumper stops inside under the shock piston to limit stroke.
#5. Duratrax Evader Yellow Rear Springs for the rear. Thick or medium spacer on left rear to fight torque.
#6. Team Losi Neon Yellow Springs for the front, 1 thick space on both.

[Wild Willys]

Thanks for the help.....I have the chassis done, and now I need to work on cutting the foam inserts.