RCCrawler Forums

asfasasu3 · 07-07-2008, 01:35 PM

Its not on a crawler, but a Stampede. The positive lead will not stay on. The motor is a Trinity "jade" 15t. I've tried everthing but have no idea whats going on. It does seem warm, but not hot enough to fall off. It doesn't take but a couple of minutes before it happens and its always the positive side only. Any ideas ?

darkstar · 07-07-2008, 02:01 PM

Not soldered on all the way? Or using cheap solder.

cherokee95 · 07-07-2008, 02:46 PM

could be good solder but a cold joint, if it was a cold solder it will never hold.

Bermbuster · 07-07-2008, 03:23 PM

You can remove all the solder from the joints...and use a flux.
You can try using a higher temp solder such as a silver solder.

asfasasu3 · 07-08-2008, 05:12 AM

The first time I would have said it was a bad solder job. Maybe even the first 3 times. But I have tried silver solder, and 60/40, and flux and without. I'm sure its not a cold joint. Everything looks good, but it won't last but a couple of minutes then falls off. We tried switching pinion gears to see if it would help not get as hot with no luck. (it does get a little hot but not nearly enough to melt solder)
This motor must be a odd ball anyways and I'm starting to think it is something to do with it. It runs great when it runs, but it might be time to look for another.

allgm1 · 07-08-2008, 05:25 PM

silver solder? 60/40? (are you a plummer?) have you tried something like rosin core solder that is ment to solder wiring?

sportpak · 07-08-2008, 06:49 PM

Sounds like a trip to the local hobby shop is in order. Have them help you change the wire and give you pointers on soldering. Somethings are really hard to describe on a forum, hands-on help will get you dialed in.

Ben

Chris_The_Battery_Man · 07-08-2008, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allgm1

silver solder? 60/40? (are you a plummer?) have you tried something like rosin core solder that is ment to solder wiring?

60/40 is usually rosin core... thats what I use every day. And silver solder is also used in electronics

asfasasu3 · 07-09-2008, 05:12 AM

As a matter of fact, I do all my own plumbing, But that has nothing to do with this.
I have let my lhs "guy" try it with the same results as I've had.

There has to be a reason this thing will not stay on. I was looking for some ideas as to why, but if I have to, I'll switch out the motor and start over.

binaryterror · 07-09-2008, 11:14 AM

Have you tried new wire? Possibly the wire has some contamination in it.

TwistedXT · 07-09-2008, 11:20 AM

or aslo sand the tab to give the solder a good surface to "stick" to... o your wire it too small of a gauge and it gets soo hot it melts the solder.

asfasasu3 · 07-09-2008, 01:11 PM

I've tried a couple of different wires with the same results. It has to be something with this motor, a little heat, and the stars not in aline. It gets warm, but not so bad that I would get worried. I did order a heat sink for it so I'll see if that helps. I did find out that boat guys seem to use this motor the most, and they run water cooled heat sinks on them. I'll give the sink a try and see if it doesn't help.

On another note, I geuss since this isn't about electric motors or wiring, it gets moved. OR maybe I should mention Mamba max or brushless so it can get moved back. THANKS!!

TLTCrawlin · 07-09-2008, 01:28 PM

I cant remember the old trick, but if you cant grab it for more then 10 seconds its too hot.

It sounds like your not soldering correctly, or soldering with the correct stuff.

Rosin core solder, and 25watt atleast

Thorsteenster · 07-09-2008, 01:35 PM

Cut the end of the wire, strip about a half inch, split the strands off in to two strands, then poke one through the hole in the tab, twist the two together real tight and resolder. Or you could crimp on a female spade connector.

hankd · 07-09-2008, 04:21 PM

surface of tab or wire is not clean or not enough heat. if it is getting hot enough to melt solder you should be able to see it happen on the bench.

asfasasu3 · 07-10-2008, 04:52 AM

After alot of thought, I decided it had to be heat caused by the stock Traxxas motor connetor. So last night after work I cut the end off the wire from the esc, and the end off the motor lead, and soldered them together. I put the heat sink on the motor and tried it. I ended up putting 2 body clips on the positive motor lead also to work as a heat sink. (and by the way, it worked great!) We were able to run it non stop for 20 minutes last night with no problems.

jetboat · 07-10-2008, 07:25 AM

what wire are you running? It sounds to me like the wire is heating up. Try changing it out to a good quality 12 or even 14 gauge. If Im right you should even see improved run times and performance.

josh_smaxx · 07-10-2008, 07:30 AM

Sounds like you had a lot of resistance somewhere in either the wire or the connectors building up heat and causing it to de-solder, when the wire came off was it realy hot? like the end of the wire i mean.

Shaun · 07-10-2008, 09:36 AM

Sand the tab, apply Flux, Apply solder.

Cut wire, strip wire, apply oil were wire meats the cover. You don't need very much. Apply Flux to the wire, Apply solder to the wire.

Now, just hold the wire on top of the motor tab and put the solder on top of it.

asfasasu3 · 07-10-2008, 11:19 AM

The wire was the stock wire on the XL-5 and a stock motor lead off the stock Traxxas motor. It had the stock pin type connector between them. That is what I believe was giving me the trouble. (causing resistance, thus creating heat) I could hold the wire when it fell off, but my old hands don't have the feeling like they used to. So I geuss it was alot hotter than I thought it was. After about 10 minutes of constant use, its now warm to the touch, but not what I would call hot. The body clips seem to work good as heat sinks and take alot of the heat out. I hope this fixes it. Thanks!!

07-07-2008, 01:35 PM	#1
asfasasu3 Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Heltonville Posts: 37	Motor lead won't stay on? Its not on a crawler, but a Stampede. The positive lead will not stay on. The motor is a Trinity "jade" 15t. I've tried everthing but have no idea whats going on. It does seem warm, but not hot enough to fall off. It doesn't take but a couple of minutes before it happens and its always the positive side only. Any ideas ?

07-07-2008, 02:01 PM	#2
darkstar Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Redlands Posts: 448	Not soldered on all the way? Or using cheap solder.

07-07-2008, 02:46 PM	#3
cherokee95 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Hiding the bodies Posts: 374	could be good solder but a cold joint, if it was a cold solder it will never hold.

07-07-2008, 03:23 PM	#4
Bermbuster Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Metro NYC Posts: 147	You can remove all the solder from the joints...and use a flux. You can try using a higher temp solder such as a silver solder.

07-08-2008, 05:12 AM	#5
asfasasu3 Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Heltonville Posts: 37	The first time I would have said it was a bad solder job. Maybe even the first 3 times. But I have tried silver solder, and 60/40, and flux and without. I'm sure its not a cold joint. Everything looks good, but it won't last but a couple of minutes then falls off. We tried switching pinion gears to see if it would help not get as hot with no luck. (it does get a little hot but not nearly enough to melt solder) This motor must be a odd ball anyways and I'm starting to think it is something to do with it. It runs great when it runs, but it might be time to look for another.

07-08-2008, 05:25 PM	#6
allgm1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: NH Posts: 427	silver solder? 60/40? (are you a plummer?) have you tried something like rosin core solder that is ment to solder wiring?

07-08-2008, 06:49 PM	#7
sportpak Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Fort Wayne Posts: 115	Sounds like a trip to the local hobby shop is in order. Have them help you change the wire and give you pointers on soldering. Somethings are really hard to describe on a forum, hands-on help will get you dialed in. Ben

07-09-2008, 05:12 AM	#9
asfasasu3 Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Heltonville Posts: 37	As a matter of fact, I do all my own plumbing, But that has nothing to do with this. I have let my lhs "guy" try it with the same results as I've had. There has to be a reason this thing will not stay on. I was looking for some ideas as to why, but if I have to, I'll switch out the motor and start over.

07-09-2008, 11:14 AM	#10
binaryterror I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit Posts: 3,583	Have you tried new wire? Possibly the wire has some contamination in it.

07-09-2008, 11:20 AM	#11
TwistedXT Powered by Awesome Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 3,622	or aslo sand the tab to give the solder a good surface to "stick" to... o your wire it too small of a gauge and it gets soo hot it melts the solder.

07-09-2008, 01:11 PM	#12
asfasasu3 Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Heltonville Posts: 37	I've tried a couple of different wires with the same results. It has to be something with this motor, a little heat, and the stars not in aline. It gets warm, but not so bad that I would get worried. I did order a heat sink for it so I'll see if that helps. I did find out that boat guys seem to use this motor the most, and they run water cooled heat sinks on them. I'll give the sink a try and see if it doesn't help. On another note, I geuss since this isn't about electric motors or wiring, it gets moved. OR maybe I should mention Mamba max or brushless so it can get moved back. THANKS!!

Sponsored Links

07-09-2008, 01:28 PM	#13
TLTCrawlin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA Posts: 2,489	I cant remember the old trick, but if you cant grab it for more then 10 seconds its too hot. It sounds like your not soldering correctly, or soldering with the correct stuff. Rosin core solder, and 25watt atleast

07-09-2008, 01:35 PM	#14
Thorsteenster I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 3,377	Cut the end of the wire, strip about a half inch, split the strands off in to two strands, then poke one through the hole in the tab, twist the two together real tight and resolder. Or you could crimp on a female spade connector.

07-09-2008, 04:21 PM	#15
hankd Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: cookeville Posts: 70	surface of tab or wire is not clean or not enough heat. if it is getting hot enough to melt solder you should be able to see it happen on the bench.

07-10-2008, 04:52 AM	#16
asfasasu3 Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Heltonville Posts: 37	After alot of thought, I decided it had to be heat caused by the stock Traxxas motor connetor. So last night after work I cut the end off the wire from the esc, and the end off the motor lead, and soldered them together. I put the heat sink on the motor and tried it. I ended up putting 2 body clips on the positive motor lead also to work as a heat sink. (and by the way, it worked great!) We were able to run it non stop for 20 minutes last night with no problems.

07-10-2008, 07:25 AM	#17
jetboat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tax Nation Posts: 2,289	what wire are you running? It sounds to me like the wire is heating up. Try changing it out to a good quality 12 or even 14 gauge. If Im right you should even see improved run times and performance.

07-10-2008, 07:30 AM	#18
josh_smaxx Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: England Posts: 34	Sounds like you had a lot of resistance somewhere in either the wire or the connectors building up heat and causing it to de-solder, when the wire came off was it realy hot? like the end of the wire i mean.

07-10-2008, 09:36 AM	#19
Shaun Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 857	Sand the tab, apply Flux, Apply solder. Cut wire, strip wire, apply oil were wire meats the cover. You don't need very much. Apply Flux to the wire, Apply solder to the wire. Now, just hold the wire on top of the motor tab and put the solder on top of it.

07-10-2008, 11:19 AM	#20
asfasasu3 Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Heltonville Posts: 37	The wire was the stock wire on the XL-5 and a stock motor lead off the stock Traxxas motor. It had the stock pin type connector between them. That is what I believe was giving me the trouble. (causing resistance, thus creating heat) I could hold the wire when it fell off, but my old hands don't have the feeling like they used to. So I geuss it was alot hotter than I thought it was. After about 10 minutes of constant use, its now warm to the touch, but not what I would call hot. The body clips seem to work good as heat sinks and take alot of the heat out. I hope this fixes it. Thanks!!

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: Motor lead won't stay on?