Do you guys clean the underside of your lexan bodies?

[Sasquatchbagger]

I just ran my touareg in fine dust sand and it was all covered in the stuff...so I went and run some water over the entire body and dabbed it dry. and I noticed a couple of tiny spots of my black backing came off. I even had a layer of matte top coat. I was using createx airbrush paint.
Nothing major but just wondered if any of you have encountered paint coming off when cleaning them. Next time I might just get some tamiya poly paint...

[Knoc]

Next time dont paint your body with crappy createx paint. I use pactra and was the insides of my body with soap and water, sometimes simple green and have never had any problems.
Also if its a nitro, you can use faskoat to back it, which keeps the paint safe from nitro, and you can use pretty much anything to clean it. Faskoat is the only thing Ill use from Faskolor. Im not a fan of that paint either. (Just my own personal preferance)

[run2jeepn]

Originally Posted by Sasquatchbagger

I just ran my touareg in fine dust sand and it was all covered in the stuff...so I went and run some water over the entire body and dabbed it dry. and I noticed a couple of tiny spots of my black backing came off. I even had a layer of matte top coat. I was using createx airbrush paint.
Nothing major but just wondered if any of you have encountered paint coming off when cleaning them. Next time I might just get some tamiya poly paint...

I think that might be were your problem is. Since there was sand on the inside of the body. Just run soap and water over it. Also you may not of had the body clean enough before you painted it. That also could be causing the paint not to stick. Just ideas...

[bodywerx]

Originally Posted by Knoc

Next time dont paint your body with crappy createx paint. I use parma and was the insides of my body with soap and water

Hate to tell you Knoc, Faskolor IS Createx Auto Air paint. repackagaged under the Parma PSE name

It is all about the prep for the paint to stick.
I wash with soap wanter, dry off, mask the windows and sand with a scotchbrite pad, dry off and paint.

[CrawlerGraphics]

Originally Posted by bodywerx

Hate to tell you Knoc, Faskolor IS Createx Auto Air paint. repackagaged under the Parma PSE name

It is all about the prep for the paint to stick.
I wash with soap wanter, dry off, mask the windows and sand with a scotchbrite pad, dry off and paint.

You need to research your paints a little better...

Direct from a Parma representative:

"let me first comment on the FASKOLOR vs Createx. yes they are similar, but they are NOT the same. Createx continually changes formulas and makes their paint for a wide range of uses. Faskolor has a formula for flexibility and adhesion specifically for polycarbonate and similar materials, but can also be used on anything. we really have to keep up on formulas because of the raw materials used, like most anything, availability and pricing concerns of these materials changes without notice. we cannot substitute some of these materials and formulas because it is tested and the product is specialized. you would have to break it down chemically to compare the two. when compared on racing vehicles, you may only realize this after time or as your body takes abuse. you might notice as you're painting and how it works with your techniques.

as a company, we used thinner based paint for over 25 years for painting slot cars and rc bodies in-house. we even sold many versions of the paint, some of you might remember it in the hobby shops or have used it. along with the enviornmental and physical hazards in the building and to the employees, it was time to switch and make sure that a new paint had a formula that works, especiially with slot cars (same type of bodies as rc) and the beatings they take, same with the rc trucks of today. it was a big deal. we worked with createx originally to develop this formula and colors because of the water-based aspect...long story short, we painted thousands of bodies, fine tuning the paint and have painted thousands and thousands in-house since - without the odor, mess or full fledged hazards that we could then pass on to consumers in our hobby place. we also saw shipping restrictions becoming more involved and costly and an obstacle we were not going to pass on to the consumer in the future if we could make this paint work correctly.

at one time enthusiasts going into a hobby shop didn't have a water-based choice and had to really hunt for an alternative if they even realized something else would work.
so this is why anybody can go into most hobby shops and buy a specific paint that is going to work correctly in the long run and you can use in an apartment and clean up with tap water. i just wanted to give you a better than short answer, hope this helps everyone understand the difference and why we stand behind our FASKOLOR line of products. we've been through and seen a lot of changes over the past 40+ years and we support our industry and customers because it and you are important to us!"

and this can be found here:
http://www.cfxpaintworks.com/modules...r=asc&start=15

[TeamDeweyRacing]

who cares what paint he used, the problem probly was the prep he didnt wash it well enough. id say try the trinity body blast remove all the paint and try agian

[CrawlerGraphics]

Oh I agree, it has a lot to do with the prep as well as what you use to seal it.

[bodywerx]

Thanks Mike.

[Sasquatchbagger]

I actually prepped the body pretty well...scuffed it washed, dried etc and even did a rubdown with body prep to remove oil....
when I washed it I must have scratched it a little(just a pin hole size) and the black backing came off and I could see the main body color(white) underneath. The main color is sticking really well to the body...
I always though this was the case-whenever acrylic paint gets wet it soaks it up and gets soft and vulnerable. Thats why I was asking how everyone cleans their lexan body. I think I am just gonna toughen it up by coating the underside with my clear Plasti Dip. I did that to my other pro-line chevy body and its pretty tough againts the elements...

[CrawlerGraphics]

Use a clear acrylic enamel or Faskoat to seal a water based paint job. You won't have any trouble with it getting wet.

[Knoc]

Originally Posted by TeamDeweyRacing

who cares what paint he used, the problem probly was the prep he didnt wash it well enough. id say try the trinity body blast remove all the paint and try agian

Paint has a major part of it. When you paint your car, does paint matter on that? Sure it does. What do you thinks gonna stick better, rattle cans from walmart, or PPG from a auto parts store??

Creatix and Parma are NOT the same company. They are VERY similar paint (Both garbage in my opinion) but are NOT made by the same company.

I would say that most likely your body wasnt backed with a good enough backer or wasnt sealed, and thats why it came off. otherwise I would have to agree it wasnt washed out well enough.

Next paint job try Pactra paint.. best on the market (Imo)

[STANG KILLA SS]

im gonna be trying HOK Kustom Kolors for the first time on my Scale Nats 2.2 build. what do yall recomend to scuff it with?
someone mentioned a green 3m "scratchy pad" thats seems way too course....

for pactra all i ever did was clean it.

[CrawlerGraphics]

Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS

im gonna be trying HOK Kustom Kolors for the first time on my Scale Nats 2.2 build. what do yall recomend to scuff it with?
someone mentioned a green 3m "scratchy pad" thats seems way too course....

for pactra all i ever did was clean it.

I use a green Scotch-Brite pad which is basically what you said above. The only time I don't use it is if I'm gonna spray chrome. Other than that the paint will fill up the scratches and stick a lot better.

[Knoc]

Ive never scuffed a body in my life and have never had one flake on me. Im sure itll help, but if Im not having problems now, I dont see the need to do it. Myself anyway. And Ive painted ALOT of bodies.

[Stormin2u]

I'm a Pactra guy give me fumes, and I don't scuff anything and never have. I do however like to use Dawn dish soap with a shaving style brush to get the release agent off the lexan and I give em pretty good scrub. I have never lost any paint. I have painted a few bodies with Fascolor and found it to be somewhat difficult when pulling tape.

[Sasquatchbagger]

Pulling the masking tape off was difficult with the acrylic paints...it would not get a nice edge so I usually just run a knife along the masking really lightly and it gets nice clean edges.
I use mostly Createx paints and found them to be good except the black...which is somewhat "sticky."

[TRA3905]

on the painting subject, what is with everyone masking off the windows? how about a nice tint job. does anyone really have to see out?

[Knoc]

On all my masking I use 3M blue painters tape. As long as you dont spray to much paint on at one time, it doesnt bleed to often. Otherwise I use my scrap vinyl (I own a vinyl graphix biz)

[O.C.D.]

Originally Posted by TRA3905

on the painting subject, what is with everyone masking off the windows? how about a nice tint job. does anyone really have to see out?

Vinyl, Tamiya tape or 3M burnished well.

[CrawlerGraphics]

Originally Posted by TRA3905

on the painting subject, what is with everyone masking off the windows? how about a nice tint job. does anyone really have to see out?

You mean like this?