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05-01-2008, 10:58 AM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: West Omaha
Posts: 581
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Prime, wetsand, however many coats. Then paint, wetsand however many coats. The clear, wetsand until last clear coat. Don't wetsand the final coat unless you are going to buff the crap out of it. Way to much work this way for an rc that is going to get scratched up. I say just use some high quality gloss paint and call it good.
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05-01-2008, 11:03 AM | #2 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: santa monica
Posts: 3,687
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thanks. | |
05-01-2008, 11:04 AM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: santa monica
Posts: 3,687
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why are these posts not in order, with my first being last, and my reply coming after the reply to me? WTF? the correct order is 4, 1, 2, 3 |
05-01-2008, 11:40 AM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: santa monica
Posts: 3,687
| wet sand clear, color, or both?
I'm getting ready to paint my current build. Going to rattle can it. Had success with rattle can on two previous but didnt really shoot for a glossy finish. I just took the slight gloss out of the can. On this one I'd like a shiny finish. I know to wet sand between coats and apply multiple coats but confused about one thing: Do I lay down several coats of color, wet sanding between each, or lay color, then several layers of clear wet sanding between each clear, or both? Going to be using Dupli-Color spray paints for automobiles. They are fine on a hardbody so I'm not worried about painting on plastic. Any suggestions or comments? |
05-01-2008, 01:05 PM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eden Prairie, MN
Posts: 1,202
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05-01-2008, 01:21 PM | #6 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: North Central Hell, Montana
Posts: 202
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If you work within the window of the paint, and can go "wet on wet", even though the paint is sandable, then you don't need to wet sand between color coats, unless there is a little dirt or something that will be problematic on the top coats. I just spray enough color to cover adequately, then lay down the clear. I put an extra couple of coats of clear on if I intend to cut and buff it, but if not, 2-3 should do it. Essentially, I'd say prime and sand until you're ready to topcoat. Hit the prepped body with a light sealer coat (for uniform coverage of color), then 2-3 light color coats, then 2-3 coats of clear (more if you're gonna cut and buff.) | |
05-01-2008, 02:44 PM | #7 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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i do alot of hard body painting. my 1.9 jeep has over 15 hours in it agreed, way too much to bash up, but its something i enjoy. the paint i use is way too expensive too. i have a paint shop mix up the dupont colors, and i buy a pint usually $30, and then its $5 per can to have it put in spray cans. paint, clear, flex and adhesion adjents all in one spray. to keep trash out of the paint, i sweep the garage floor, then put the body on a box, close the garage door, let all the dust settle, sometime ill dampen the floor, and paint 4-5 coats, 15-30 minutes between coats. typically i do this. (for a brand new unpainted body) wetsand with 320 wetsand with 400 4-5 coats of automotive single stage paint. bash pearl white Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 05-01-2008 at 02:48 PM. |
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