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Old 01-03-2009, 11:54 PM   #1
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Default Tinting windows backfired

I tried tinting windows on my crawler body the other day it it just bubled once I sprayed it on. I don't know went wrong I cleaned the body and everything. I was using parma lexan paint so maybe added alittle too much water I am not sure can you guys help me out.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:27 AM   #2
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I use fastint all the time. I never use water, it is plenty thin right out the bottle.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:55 AM   #3
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I use the Pactra Window Tint and it works quite well:
(only the side and rear are tinted on this body)


The trick with this stuff (as with all paints) is to spray multiple light coats...
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Old 01-04-2009, 12:19 PM   #4
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i used the pactra the other day on my first time ever painting a body and it turned out great! the trick for the pactra is you have to warm it up first
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:38 PM   #5
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If you need to thin Pactra Fascolors use the thinner cleaner. Water (never) or Windex will cause fish eyes occasionally.

Last edited by Stormin2u; 01-04-2009 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 01-04-2009, 04:04 PM   #6
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i use window tint film from a tint shop in my town, just make sure you dont touch the film. it's just scraps from doing full size cars, so they just give it to me. no spraying or masking, just use your premasked window tape as a template, cut it out and peel the clear film off and apply.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:03 PM   #7
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Ya I tried it without water at first through my airbrush and it was to thick and would'nt spray. So I read the back and it said to add water if to thick so maybe its the nozzle I was using.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:12 PM   #8
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Whenever I have to reduce Faskolors I use the blue windex. I've had better luck with that than water.
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:08 PM   #9
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Thats why I put up with the smell from Spazstix, its ready to sprey rite out of the bottle and do light coats.
Usually 2 is plenty for almost blacked out but still transparent,
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:47 PM   #10
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I have been using Nite Shades by VHT for years. Trick, as mentioned already, is light coats. On light color bodies, mask off the painted areas but on dark ones just shoot the inside- it doesn't harm the paint. I messed up a rare body by not masking a light color, it made dark splotches on the roof of a yellow M3. Sucked. A lot.
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Old 01-05-2009, 10:51 PM   #11
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I've had the splatter issues with the Pactra rattle cans before and was never able to get a light tint effect going. I thought I read somewhere that you should apply clear coat first and then the tint. I also wonder if hitting it with a heat gun inbetween coats to make the paint "flow" better helps?
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:03 PM   #12
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Are you getting too close when spraying? I made that mistake a few times before I forced myself to back off and not try to get results too quickly- light coats, patience and more distance while spraying than I originally thought.
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:31 PM   #13
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Ditto, helps that we do this in house... Works really well too for both lexan and hard bodies. I used it on my Ultimate Adventure FJ Cruiser build too...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokpile View Post
i use window tint film from a tint shop in my town, just make sure you dont touch the film. it's just scraps from doing full size cars, so they just give it to me. no spraying or masking, just use your premasked window tape as a template, cut it out and peel the clear film off and apply.
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Old 01-10-2009, 05:47 PM   #14
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Spaz Stix has the best window tint by far. FasTint will work but it does need to be thinned. When thinning FasKolors thin with a 50/50 mixture of Windex and rubbing alcohol.
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