RCCrawler Forums

Shaun (yota) · 07-18-2006, 09:31 PM

Any Progess On The Toyota Bodys

Destroyer · 07-18-2006, 10:11 PM

Skipster hasn't been on since May 1st...

clodstall · 07-23-2006, 12:19 PM

i tend to get things done almost in time when i can quit eating the fridge. lol...

ON THE FARM · 08-20-2006, 11:15 PM

Back in the early 90's i worked for PRO-LINE, they bought out MRP (they made boats) and on some of the molds they "DID" have some under cuts. the way they were taken off of the mods was with a blst of air just after cooling. this would kind of inflate the plastic and pop it off the mold. we also had a funny car body that had a scoop on the front hood, now that was a piece that came off of the mold and was taken out of the formed body by hand and then put back on the mold for the next pull.
use silicone for your female mold, if it is not prefict that is ok, use an aluminum epoxy for the actual mold that was poured into the silicone mold. after that you sand it the way you want it and drill your holes for the vacuum table.
just remember you can have removable body parts that come off with the pulled body, so that way you can make the toyota into a 4runner by haveing a removable shell.

sorry so long but i know about this stuff.

thaclodking · 08-20-2006, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ON THE FARM

use silicone for your female mold, if it is not prefict that is ok, use an aluminum epoxy for the actual mold that was poured into the silicone mold. after that you sand it the way you want it and drill your holes for the vacuum table.

Where do I get this stuff from? What kind of silicone? Where can I find this aluminum epoxy? I really want to get this thing done.

ON THE FARM · 08-21-2006, 07:57 PM

thacldking,

i think the stuff we use to use was made by dow-corning, it was a long time ago. but i did find this for ya.
the stuff was like $100 a gallon.

Aluminum epoxy

Tra-Con's Tra-Bond 2122 is an aluminum metal-filled epoxy formulation designed for industrial casting, bonding, and repair applications in which a strong aluminum-like adhesive is required. This two-part epoxy formulation is easily mixed at room temperature to form tough, durable bonds to aluminum and other nonferrous and ferrous materials, woods, ceramics, glass, concrete, and many plastics. It has low shrinkage and sets up quickly for fast repairs.

TMXONR · 08-21-2006, 08:26 PM

We have this stuff at work called Aluma-Lite or Aluma-Like, something like that. Anyway its for modlers to make molds to reproduce parts. It is real hard, and I was thinking that it could be used to make body molds. Since its like 30 bucks for a 28oz set of the stuff. You take a lexan body that you like and bob the bead and narrow the front and all of that other stuff you would do to get a body ready for a comp crawler. Then you could mix up the Aluma-Lite and let it partialy harden, then pour it all inside the body and move the body around to get every thing covered evenly. Then once it is fully hardened you can fill the inside of the mold you just made with plaster or some other hard substance like that. Now you have a perfect mold of what would be the perfect comp body, and best of all if you do this you dont have to worry about the 70% rule with the bodies because its just the way the body came off of the mold.

I think the Aluma-Lite has a release agent that you can buy. I know this is most likley possible because the Aluma-Lite lady mixed some up in a cup, sloshed it around to let it partialy harden and then began to pour it out and we now have a mold at work that looks like a small mixing cup pouring out a liquid, its sweet looking. This stuff also gives amazing detail.

ON THE FARM · 08-21-2006, 09:49 PM

TMXONR,

That would work great for the body mold!
If you do, do that to a body the best way would be to make a box that the body will fit in upside down with the roof on the bottom and the untrimmed edge at the top (assuming it is untrimmed). add some supports to the inside of the body, slowly add some sand to the outside of the body and the box, you are supporting the body so it will not bulge out in some spots. mix up some of the epoxy and epoxy the wooden supports in (it is ok if they stay because they will be coverd by the other layers of epoxy). be sure not to bump or avoid any vibration to the table you are working on or the sand will settle and cause the body to cave in.

rockwerks · 08-21-2006, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMXONR

We have this stuff at work called Aluma-Lite or Aluma-Like, something like that. Anyway its for modlers to make molds to reproduce parts. It is real hard, and I was thinking that it could be used to make body molds. Since its like 30 bucks for a 28oz set of the stuff. You take a lexan body that you like and bob the bead and narrow the front and all of that other stuff you would do to get a body ready for a comp crawler. Then you could mix up the Aluma-Lite and let it partialy harden, then pour it all inside the body and move the body around to get every thing covered evenly. Then once it is fully hardened you can fill the inside of the mold you just made with plaster or some other hard substance like that. Now you have a perfect mold of what would be the perfect comp body, and best of all if you do this you dont have to worry about the 70% rule with the bodies because its just the way the body came off of the mold.

I think the Aluma-Lite has a release agent that you can buy. I know this is most likley possible because the Aluma-Lite lady mixed some up in a cup, sloshed it around to let it partialy harden and then began to pour it out and we now have a mold at work that looks like a small mixing cup pouring out a liquid, its sweet looking. This stuff also gives amazing detail.

find out what it is actually called....... and I wll check into it for making a few bodies

TMXONR · 08-21-2006, 10:26 PM

Here is a link to the site, its actual name is Alumilite. I will get a part number when i get to work tomorrow.

http://www.alumilite.com/line.cfm

TMXONR · 08-22-2006, 10:50 AM

Ok, the part number for the Alumilite kit we carry is 10010, it is the 28oz kit. From what I was told you will probably have to get it directly from Alumilite, unless there is a hobby shop near you that carries it.

ON THE FARM · 08-22-2006, 08:38 PM

YES!!!!!!!!! thats what im talking about.

this is the way you would do the car body http://www.alumilite.com/howto.cfm?ID=4

then pour the epoxy into that.

TMXONR · 08-22-2006, 08:48 PM

If you just put the Alumilite into the body you will have better detail for the form, and it will save you one step. You would just have to get some sheet styrine and glue it over the tire cutouts and along the outside edge of the body, so there would be a molded in cutline.

TMXONR · 09-01-2006, 10:21 AM

Has anyone tried this yet with the Alumilite. I would try it, but I don't have access to a vaccum forming machine, or the time to make one.

07-23-2006, 12:19 PM	#183
clodstall I lost my vendor privileges Join Date: May 2006 Location: TOP OF THE HILL Posts: 3,014	Stoner i tend to get things done almost in time when i can quit eating the fridge. lol...

08-22-2006, 10:50 AM	#191
TMXONR Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bryant, AR Posts: 463	Ok, the part number for the Alumilite kit we carry is 10010, it is the 28oz kit. From what I was told you will probably have to get it directly from Alumilite, unless there is a hobby shop near you that carries it. Last edited by TMXONR; 08-22-2006 at 08:49 PM.

07-18-2006, 09:31 PM	#181
Shaun (yota) Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Holiday, FL Posts: 540	Any Progess On The Toyota Bodys

07-18-2006, 10:11 PM	#182
Destroyer Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: North GA Posts: 824	Skipster hasn't been on since May 1st...

08-20-2006, 11:15 PM	#184
ON THE FARM Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS Posts: 202	Back in the early 90's i worked for PRO-LINE, they bought out MRP (they made boats) and on some of the molds they "DID" have some under cuts. the way they were taken off of the mods was with a blst of air just after cooling. this would kind of inflate the plastic and pop it off the mold. we also had a funny car body that had a scoop on the front hood, now that was a piece that came off of the mold and was taken out of the formed body by hand and then put back on the mold for the next pull. use silicone for your female mold, if it is not prefict that is ok, use an aluminum epoxy for the actual mold that was poured into the silicone mold. after that you sand it the way you want it and drill your holes for the vacuum table. just remember you can have removable body parts that come off with the pulled body, so that way you can make the toyota into a 4runner by haveing a removable shell. sorry so long but i know about this stuff.

08-21-2006, 07:57 PM	#186
ON THE FARM Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS Posts: 202	thacldking, i think the stuff we use to use was made by dow-corning, it was a long time ago. but i did find this for ya. the stuff was like $100 a gallon. Aluminum epoxy Tra-Con's Tra-Bond 2122 is an aluminum metal-filled epoxy formulation designed for industrial casting, bonding, and repair applications in which a strong aluminum-like adhesive is required. This two-part epoxy formulation is easily mixed at room temperature to form tough, durable bonds to aluminum and other nonferrous and ferrous materials, woods, ceramics, glass, concrete, and many plastics. It has low shrinkage and sets up quickly for fast repairs.

08-21-2006, 08:26 PM	#187
TMXONR Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bryant, AR Posts: 463	We have this stuff at work called Aluma-Lite or Aluma-Like, something like that. Anyway its for modlers to make molds to reproduce parts. It is real hard, and I was thinking that it could be used to make body molds. Since its like 30 bucks for a 28oz set of the stuff. You take a lexan body that you like and bob the bead and narrow the front and all of that other stuff you would do to get a body ready for a comp crawler. Then you could mix up the Aluma-Lite and let it partialy harden, then pour it all inside the body and move the body around to get every thing covered evenly. Then once it is fully hardened you can fill the inside of the mold you just made with plaster or some other hard substance like that. Now you have a perfect mold of what would be the perfect comp body, and best of all if you do this you dont have to worry about the 70% rule with the bodies because its just the way the body came off of the mold. I think the Aluma-Lite has a release agent that you can buy. I know this is most likley possible because the Aluma-Lite lady mixed some up in a cup, sloshed it around to let it partialy harden and then began to pour it out and we now have a mold at work that looks like a small mixing cup pouring out a liquid, its sweet looking. This stuff also gives amazing detail.

08-21-2006, 09:49 PM	#188
ON THE FARM Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS Posts: 202	TMXONR, That would work great for the body mold! If you do, do that to a body the best way would be to make a box that the body will fit in upside down with the roof on the bottom and the untrimmed edge at the top (assuming it is untrimmed). add some supports to the inside of the body, slowly add some sand to the outside of the body and the box, you are supporting the body so it will not bulge out in some spots. mix up some of the epoxy and epoxy the wooden supports in (it is ok if they stay because they will be coverd by the other layers of epoxy). be sure not to bump or avoid any vibration to the table you are working on or the sand will settle and cause the body to cave in.

08-21-2006, 10:26 PM	#190
TMXONR Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bryant, AR Posts: 463	Here is a link to the site, its actual name is Alumilite. I will get a part number when i get to work tomorrow. http://www.alumilite.com/line.cfm

08-22-2006, 08:38 PM	#192
ON THE FARM Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS Posts: 202	YES!!!!!!!!! thats what im talking about. this is the way you would do the car body http://www.alumilite.com/howto.cfm?ID=4 then pour the epoxy into that.

08-22-2006, 08:48 PM	#193
TMXONR Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bryant, AR Posts: 463	If you just put the Alumilite into the body you will have better detail for the form, and it will save you one step. You would just have to get some sheet styrine and glue it over the tire cutouts and along the outside edge of the body, so there would be a molded in cutline.

09-01-2006, 10:21 AM	#194
TMXONR Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bryant, AR Posts: 463	Has anyone tried this yet with the Alumilite. I would try it, but I don't have access to a vaccum forming machine, or the time to make one.

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