Plastic Dip your RC

[TacoCrawler]

Orange so's I can't lose it !? Lol

Specifically: Koi Orange PD rattle can application, applied to Nylon and ABS plastic surfaces. ( minimally 3 coats )

If the color gets boring or the finish becomes too thrashed... peel it off and choose another color for the next round

What isn't removed during the peeling process... can be wiped off using charcoal fluid and a clean rag.











Fairly durable on a scaler... though maybe not ideal for a thrasher.

Anyone else use PD to finish their RC with ?

[Mike Flea]

Very nice, Dell, that trailer turned out sweet!

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Very nice, Dell, that trailer turned out sweet!

Thanks Mike... think I could possibly see it from orbit !? Lol

I still wish I had fabricated a separate steel frame and draw bar as that would look more to scale.
IMO it still needs a frame under the tub to replicate the original trailer properly.
I don't really like the look of where the draw bar protrudes out the front of the tub as that is not to scale for a 1:1.

But doing so would add weight... and it seems to pull acceptably as is.

If I broke that plastic draw bar... I'll suppose I'd be forced to reconsider.

[Sneetches]

I can get behind this. I screwed up my SCX10 II body by spraying the fenders inside but ended up with a lot of overspray. I thought it was screwed, but saw this thread and figured I had nothing to lose. Ordered some Black #11203 and Metallizer #11287 and just went over the whole body about 7 or 8 times with black, then 2 shots of the metallizer. After that , just cut out the windows and peeled them right off, that was neat. It's kind of an odd feeling, feels like rubber and it does seem to get stuck stuck to it, but you can just hose it off afterwards. The matte look is awesome though.

[TacoCrawler]

^ was that applied to a poly/lexan body...
or was it applied to a hard body (abs-styrene) ?

I'd think it would adhere to poly/lexan just as well.
Flex with that and not separate from the surface applied.

But I haven't applied it to my Lexan body yet to know for sure.
Tho' I'm tempted to try... since I could just peel it off if I didn't like it.

What say you ?

[Sneetches]

I'll post up a pic in a bit, it was the SCX10 II kit lexan body. I had to do 7-8 coats before the light stopped coming through so much.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Sneetches

I'll post up a pic in a bit, it was the SCX10 II kit lexan body. I had to do 7-8 coats before the light stopped coming through so much.

7 - 8 coats ?

seems excessive

that applied using thin coats and an airbrush ?

I realize the PD is semi translucent...
But didn't think it would require that many coatings.

I'd guess a poly/lexan body might need a darker backing inside so light doesn't bleed thru as easily ?

Not really an issue with abs or styrene hard body.
3 coats with a rattle can is usually enough...

^ 3 rattle can coats minimally so's it peels off in one piece.

Look forward to seeing your results

[Sneetches]

It sounded like a lot, but even at 4 coats there was still quite a bit of light bleeding through. After 7 I was satisfied, only a little bit of light, but I did the 8th coat because I needed to get the side skirts some more. I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Performix-112...erformix+black

[TacoCrawler]

I think the black looks fairly decent...

maybe a little grainy,
but no more so then spraying bed liner on, and how that would look on a 1:1.

I've seen that applied on more then a few occasions and think the black PD mimics that look purdy well.





Now let's see how well it holds up to abuse !?

[Ninomaniac]

I use plastidip on the inside for Lexan bodies. Works wonderfully. You don't even have to mask stuff, just outline the shape with a blade and peel off.