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05-21-2009, 10:28 AM | #1 |
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
Posts: 1,417
| Roborg's (Cast) Bully Build
Ive had Jarod's HaVoc chassis sitting here for awhile now and just got these cast Bully's to test so figured now was a good time to try it out. at the same time I got a couple electronics upgrades as well (Futaba Steer servo, PunkRCDig. 2 great additions! More pictures soon! Video uploading now. HAHA! Just noticed where I lost my body clip JP Custom's HaVoc Chassis RC4WD X-Locks tires RC4WD BL01N Rims 110mm RC4WD Sparks Shocks CC MambaMax 2x Kawada 50T Brushed Motors CCBEC Spektrum DX3R Futaba 94780 Steer Servo (Present day) Punk R/C DIG (in 3 days) 3cell 1300mah 25c Lipo Lower links- Traxxas5319 60mm front torsion links Last edited by roborg5000; 05-21-2009 at 04:35 PM. |
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05-21-2009, 04:32 PM | #2 | |
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
Posts: 1,417
| Quote:
V4 axles had no breaks or bends. I took some pretty good hits Tuesday night without issues. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bmf0SoFeCvY My only complaint to this day is the loss of screws from the knuckles but, I had that problem with the originals as well. Just keep adding the threadlock and eventually they will stay. I did keep all my wheel weights in order to put the axles to the test. I should have mentioned I only used 2 cross braces in the rear of the chassis by my 2nd run to gain more flex up front. I also needed to space my torsion links out on the axle towards the rim more to clear the servo and gain more flex. Last edited by roborg5000; 05-21-2009 at 04:41 PM. | |
05-21-2009, 09:24 PM | #3 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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05-21-2009, 09:29 PM | #4 |
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
Posts: 1,417
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05-21-2009, 09:30 PM | #5 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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I know. |
05-21-2009, 09:43 PM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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Nice move at 4:45 Nice start...If you need any tips on the HaVoc just shoot me a PM.. |
05-21-2009, 10:16 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: laying low
Posts: 2,508
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I have been using "shake proof" washers on one side of my knuckle bolts....and on the other I am running cap head bolts and aircraft safety wire....both seem to work well...I was gonna try permanent loc-tight..but now that i have the shake proof washers I think I'm good... Looking good Rob!!! Nice vid too! I'm dying to get my cast axles now!!! I got a new top secret chassis I'm gonna throw them under!! keep up the great work. |
05-21-2009, 10:21 PM | #8 | ||
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
Posts: 1,417
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I would say I just need some 80mm shocks and I will be good to go . Quote:
Invest in some M3 x 7mm button cap screws. | ||
05-21-2009, 10:29 PM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: laying low
Posts: 2,508
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so Rob how do you like that new dig unit???
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05-21-2009, 10:36 PM | #10 | |
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
Posts: 1,417
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Looking forward to the TSC too I uh, Dig it . Works wonders man. To lose one mechanical switch is a great thing. Especially when ive had nothing but problems with all mini servos ive used for DIG!!! Flawless operation. Switches never got hot either . Indicator lights are cool when its 1am and you forget which direction front and rear dig is on your radio Id suggest it . Best $50 I've spent in awhile ! | |
05-21-2009, 10:38 PM | #11 | |
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
Posts: 1,417
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I actually did forget until you said Fastenal | |
05-22-2009, 09:41 AM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sandy, OR
Posts: 672
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Red loctite seems to cure the loosening screws pretty well. I was having them come loose pretty much every run, then some red loctite seemed to fix the problem. They are tight, but not so tight that you can't get them back out. Just my .02.
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05-22-2009, 05:44 PM | #13 |
WOOPOOW!! Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,218
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bah bah bah. It not gunna werk becuz yu dnt hav ur pink nutz rooobbb |
05-23-2009, 05:08 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Pacific
Posts: 492
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Cool vid. That's one aweome rig. |
05-24-2009, 02:28 AM | #15 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Somerset UK
Posts: 6
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Gents, One thing I have noticed is that no one states having degreased the nuts and bolts before the locktite is applied, in model helicopter circles this is de riguer, I'm not trying to tell granny how to suck eggs but it has not been mentioned as far as I can see. Normally Blue locktite is used because once Red is apllied it sticks like Sh!t to a blanket and the devils own to get apart again. With blade revs up at 3K RPM blue works, this almost sounds like a mechanical tendency to unwind the nuts in which case wire locking may be a good compromise between ''tight nuts'' and put together for ever regards kevin. |
05-24-2009, 06:21 AM | #16 | |
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
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05-24-2009, 07:22 AM | #17 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Sin City
Posts: 1,332
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I just switched all mine out to cap head with a 3mm head with blue loctyte and keep one in my pocket. I started checking for loose screws between each course after losing a weight out of my vanquish wheels so its habit.
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05-24-2009, 12:06 PM | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Somerset UK
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05-24-2009, 12:24 PM | #19 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: The Aloha State....Aurite!
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Tight Vid!!!.............. Looks like the different cast bullys are holdn up so far. |
05-24-2009, 09:24 PM | #20 | |||
support@rc4wd.com Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
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I beat on them a little more at the house this weekend but , no videos from that course because thats just silly | |||
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