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Old 07-20-2009, 03:58 PM   #1
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Default Bully 2's stripping screws

I have a weekl old set of Bully 2's. When I received them. The first thing I did. Was to remove all the screws one at a time and put blue thread lock on each one. One of the screws on the front axle tube flange in the top middle position stripped very easily. It never even got snug. I know better than to overtighten screws. I did not make a big deal of that. I thought the other 3 should do a fine job of holding. And they have. During this weekends comp I noticed the knuckles were loose. And snugged them up. I thought this was strange having blue locktight. At the end of the comp I checked them again to find they were loose again. I removed the screws to place more blue threadlock on them. And upon tightening thay pulled what little threads were left. Now I have one screw remaining between two knuckles. The front axle is Completely useless. One week old. I am waiting to see what RC4WD does to resolve this matter. I do not think I will be comfortable with this new cast zinc alloy. I would be willing to pay more for a high quality machined set. I do not see the extra weight as a selling feature. I will say. The rest of the axle is Very durable. I do not know how to load pics on here.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:12 PM   #2
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first off the knuckles have a problem with getting sloppy and need to be tightend everythime you go out or so i read. and to load pics the easiest way is to buy a star for 20 bucks then it will allow you to upload pictures onhere. also you can use 3rd party photoshareing websites like photobucket and upload to them and post the correct link in your thread if i remeber right when u hover over the picture its the bottom one i think html code? and im sorry this happened to your bullys i just picked up a set and im hopeing this kind of thing doesnt happen to me too.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:34 PM   #3
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Had the same issue with the knuckle screws stripping after just a few runs.

Have not heard back from anyone that has E-mailed RC4WD about this problem.

This is what we did in an attempt to fix the problem.

Possible sloppy knuckle fix

So far everything is staying tight on my kids rig. I has been a week or so since talking to Diamond D but at the last comp he said all was still tight and good to go.

I have only ran a few packs through the kids so it is a bit early to tell if this will fix the problem.

Maybe Diamond D will wake up and let us know how his are doing

Not sure what thread but someone else had a screw break off in the case. RC4WD sent him new case/cases if I remember correctly.
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:14 PM   #4
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When I first got my Bullys I used the Blue Lock-Tite... Everytime they loosened up. I would apply more. It only took 3-4 times... Since then they have never backed out. It's been months and 3 Comps Since I did it.
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:31 PM   #5
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I do not have the machine tools but I have ideas. What if you were to thread the knucklewith a larger screw. Machine off the treads that protrude through the knuckle. Trim the length to just inside the axle tube. Drill 3mm hole in the tube to fit the brass bushin. Trim the bushing to just inside the tube. This way you would have much more threaded area with larger screw in the much thicker knuckle. I will have obe of my freinds help me with this work. I will also post results.
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:33 PM   #6
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Machine off the threads that protrude to 3mm smooth.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:34 PM   #7
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red loctite has been my friend at the knuckles. it has been over a month and still tight.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:58 PM   #8
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On our end, we also updating our mold right now, so it will have a little bit more meat on the axle tube. Once we have more updates, we will post more info on our section.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by droogin655321 View Post
I do not have the machine tools but I have ideas. What if you were to thread the knucklewith a larger screw. Machine off the treads that protrude through the knuckle. Trim the length to just inside the axle tube. Drill 3mm hole in the tube to fit the brass bushin. Trim the bushing to just inside the tube. This way you would have much more threaded area with larger screw in the much thicker knuckle. I will have obe of my freinds help me with this work. I will also post results.

I think I follow what you are saying... Interesting idea for sure.

So what you are saying the bushing would be pressed into the tube. Then the knuckle would have a kingpin so to speak. It would thread into the knuckle with a pilot on the end that goes into the bushing.
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:26 AM   #10
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moes670, That is exactly what I am saying. I hope I can get mine done by Sunday's comp.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:18 AM   #11
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Not sure if I am picturing your idea, but I am very happy so far with the 4mm screws in the knuckles. They have not come loose yet. I also put blue loctite in them. With the 3mm screws they were still coming loose even with the red.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:42 AM   #12
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Dave you woke up!!!

Think of a shoulder bolt. But swap the threaded area and the shoulder. It would be head, threaded area then shoulder. The bushing would be pressed into the tube not the knuckle.

You get my servo yet???

Looked at RPP last night and they have thm on sale now

I think you still got it cheaper though....
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:43 AM   #13
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Chisel did you rattle his cage
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moes670 View Post
Dave you woke up!!!

Think of a shoulder bolt. But swap the threaded area and the shoulder. It would be head, threaded area then shoulder. The bushing would be pressed into the tube not the knuckle.

You get my servo yet???

Looked at RPP last night and they have thm on sale now

I think you still got it cheaper though....
Ya got the servo. Ready to hook it all up one of these days.
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moes670 View Post
Dave you woke up!!!

Think of a shoulder bolt. But swap the threaded area and the shoulder. It would be head, threaded area then shoulder. The bushing would be pressed into the tube not the knuckle.

You get my servo yet???

Looked at RPP last night and they have thm on sale now

I think you still got it cheaper though....
Ya---I am tossing the idea of that jewel of a servo
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:54 PM   #16
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I got the Bully axle Pilot crew conversion done. I think it was a big success. I used a 11/64 drill bit to open the stripped 3mm screw hole on the axle tube to fit the relocated bushing. I tapped the existing holes in the knuckles to 5mm .8. A friend of mine did the machine work on some long 5mm .8 button head bolts. It went back together better than original. Much less slop. Works very smooth. I ran 2 packs through my truck and the are not even thinking of coming loose. When I put the pilot screws in I used blue thred lock and a lock washer.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by droogin655321 View Post
I got the Bully axle Pilot crew conversion done. I think it was a big success. I used a 11/64 drill bit to open the stripped 3mm screw hole on the axle tube to fit the relocated bushing. I tapped the existing holes in the knuckles to 5mm .8. A friend of mine did the machine work on some long 5mm .8 button head bolts. It went back together better than original. Much less slop. Works very smooth. I ran 2 packs through my truck and the are not even thinking of coming loose. When I put the pilot screws in I used blue thred lock and a lock washer.
So, when are you going to offer these to the public?
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:45 PM   #18
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x10
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:16 AM   #19
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Yea really, Ill take 4 of the screws. I can do the drill and tap myself.
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:25 PM   #20
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Just a quick follow up on this mod. It has proven to be an outstanding repair. I have run 16oz. per each front wheel with 8oz. in each rear wheel. And I have thrashed this thing extremely hard. And it is showing no signs of coming loose. I do not have the means to reproduce these readily. Nor am I interested in making any money on trying to sell these . I was more interested in providing helpfull information to those with the same problem. Any machinist should be quite capable of making these.
Best of luck. And please share your expeirence if you try this.
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