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Old 07-19-2012, 05:13 AM   #1
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Exclamation before and after clocking pics

I am looking to see before and after pics of clocked axles just want to see the difference. i have a clocking jig from creeperbob and havent had much time to use it. i am wondering if i am gonna have to change the link lengths and anything else? Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:29 AM   #2
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

You will need to lengthen you upper inks, the lowers should be close enough to stay the same,

I am not sure how much the clocking jig moves the case, as far as how much you will need to lengthen your uppers.
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:09 AM   #3
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper View Post
You will need to lengthen you upper links.
Did you mean shorten them? or lengthen them to get some clearance because I shortened mine a little to get the most out of clocking them
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:07 AM   #4
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

My mounting geometry didnt change after clocking...I already had a bit of castor and didnt move the case after clocking the axles
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:05 AM   #5
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

Search with clocked tubes or clocking jig in the search catagory, that will pull you several different threads to get views from.

"Bully Pro's" in the search box you'll get the beginning of all things "clocked".
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:07 AM   #6
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

So when using the jig should the new holes be in front or behind the original holes. i know i shouldn't have this hard of a time using it but i dont want to mess up and have to redrill holes and possibly weaken the tubes. i should only be clocking the front tubes right? thanks for the help
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:01 PM   #7
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

You want to clock it, so that the steering (tierod) is up higher, not lower. Also, you don't need to clock the rear axle.

Last edited by Ace138; 08-01-2012 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:05 PM   #8
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

Well. You should already know what the before looks like if yoju are running bullys already. Here is a pic of what it looks like after. I got my creeperbob jig in the mail today and went right to work. You will need to either lenghten your front upper links or if your chassis will allow you can move them to where they need to be to clock the gear case forward. Don't know about anyone else but I flipped the link/shock mounts ujpside down. This will make more sense when yours is apart in front of you. Good luck. If you have any ore questions just ask.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:07 PM   #9
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

Don't worry about drilling extra holes and weakening them. I think you gave me an Idea of were to loose more weight. They are very tough. After clocking them you will need to turn your lower link mounts on the axle upside down to get everything to work well.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:22 AM   #10
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

Thanks this helps me a lot
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:50 PM   #11
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Default Re: before and after clocking pics

Well I clocked the front tubes to find out I can't use the steering setup I had before. I was thinking I wasn't going to be able to but hoping I could at the same time. Now it time to figure out what I should do. If I don't flip over the link mounts I could still if I find a longer servo horn it might still work

Last edited by laxjj14; 07-31-2012 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Adding
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:32 PM   #12
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Exclamation Re: before and after clocking pics

I tried bending some steering links to work with the servo mount I had and couldn't get full throw then I tried making my own Servo mount and bending a steering link and I still wasn't working right. Looking for suggestions on what servo mounts people are using on their clocked bully's. I don't have many tools to make stuff other than files a drill a tube bender some cutting blades. My dremel burnt out so I'm gonna have to get a new one sometime. I'm looking for a decent tap and die set to try my hand at making my own links since I ruined the three that I tried to bend. Ive been looking around my local hardware for some rod to use but not finding any thing I like. Suggestions would be much appreciated!
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