tf2 disapppointment

[tunnalram]

getting frustrated with my tf2 these days. drive shafts suck, no news there. shocks are falling apart. brass things in the end breaking and falling apart. onoy have 5 -6 batterys thru it and just falling apart. oh and lets not forget the leaf spring are all bent. not even hard driving just messing around in the yard. atleast its heavy. We all know its an expencive hooby but already needing 2 bills worth of upgrades. fml

[1BadJeepBruiser]

Originally Posted by tunnalram

getting frustrated with my tf2 these days. drive shafts suck, no news there. shocks are falling apart. brass things in the end breaking and falling apart. onoy have 5 -6 batterys thru it and just falling apart. oh and lets not forget the leaf spring are all bent. not even hard driving just messing around in the yard. atleast its heavy. We all know its an expencive hooby but already needing 2 bills worth of upgrades. fml

How many leafs are you running? What power plant? Have you emailed RC4WD about the issues with the shocks?

[heinie_21]

My shocks fell apart too. I just put a rubber bushing in the shock eyes. I never use rc4wd driveshafts. Wraith driveshafts are awesome and cheap. (check the rpp salvage yard often they often put a pair of wraith driveshafts on there for $22).

Be more careful with your leafs. I've never bent a link because I know how to treat them. If what you call messing around in the yard bends your leafs, then you need a truck with links, not leafs.

Try and scx10

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[RiceBurner]

Get a scx... Bought a trail stomper(TF1 with leaf springs) cause I wanted a more scale chassis and leaf springs appealed to me at the time. Leafs bent, axles would bind at full steer, break knuckles loose and shred ring and pinion. Eventually made links and ran shocks but axles kept breaking and shredding, almost ordered aluminum axle housings but watching scx's perform at club GTG's changed my mind. Also ordered a tf2 tranny during all this, was a complete disappointment, slipped uncontrollably when wet and motor mount cracked(during a crash down a creek bank to be fair).

[pravesh736]

dont even install the plastic driveshafts ,... you'll have a really hard time removing them after the 10 mintues of running life it has. i have ordered new transfer case shafts and rings and pinion where driveshaft connects, i got so frustrated i cut those off totally just so i could remove it from the axle housing and trans case, yes i am new and not as experienced becuz when i drilled it reverse it took away some metal. so now new parts like pinions and transfer shafts along with driveshafts are going in(im still waiting for the parcel to arrive here in india). what a headache. actually its partly my fault too cuz i overestimated its strength to last for sometime and put some locktite there ..

do replace the bottom of the shocks ends with plastic ones = much better.

i wouldnt have minded if it was 100$ more but should have been a complete rig, as in really complete to work without troubles not rtr(i like building but have no access to fabrication).

my thoughts[please do not take it negatively anyone]
awesome sexy rig by design but let down by poor R&D. things go bad so quickly feels it was never driven during its developement. or this is a cost cutting result. sorry i come from nitro buggy racing background. edit- its really hard for people who dont have much idea about scalers. but want an awesome rig to built and run . but i will stop complaining once i spend some more time and money scaling.

[tunnalram]

Originally Posted by 1BadJeepBruiser

How many leafs are you running? What power plant? Have you emailed RC4WD about the issues with the shocks?

I'm running the main with the middle in front and main with small one above in rear. it has a titan 12T motor. and no I havnt emailed them, still mad about the poor range on my wireless winch so dont wana talk about other issues. its not getting jumped or anything. just tearing around on a beach and some hill climes. thinking i should have got a honch. better quality and half the price

[tozrovr]

Originally Posted by tunnalram

getting frustrated with my tf2 these days. drive shafts suck, no news there. shocks are falling apart. brass things in the end breaking and falling apart. onoy have 5 -6 batterys thru it and just falling apart. oh and lets not forget the leaf spring are all bent. not even hard driving just messing around in the yard. atleast its heavy. We all know its an expencive hooby but already needing 2 bills worth of upgrades. fml

$200 worth of upgrades needed?

1. Traxxas Driveshafts...$11 at your LHS
2. Shocks...put a dab of CA on the little brass part that has fallen out and press it back in. If you hate this style joint (some do) be sure to stay away from any Hot Racing parts for your other rigs. $0
3. Bent leaf packs...you're on your own here. I bent one of my rear, main leaves but the absolute punishment I dished out to bend it was on the "Should-have-been-driving-a-Traxxas-level." I had it wedged in a very tight spot between 2 boulders and just dropped the hammer. My Bad.

So, in closing, buck up little camper, you're in the midst of a basher-induced depression and you'll be back up and running again soon with just a Tenspot and some glue (on second thought, looking at your spelling above, you may want to lay off the glue...).

Originally Posted by tunnalram

I'm running the main with the middle in front and main with small one above in rear. it has a titan 12T motor. and no I havnt emailed them, still mad about the poor range on my wireless winch so dont wana talk about other issues. its not getting jumped or anything. just tearing around on a beach and some hill climes. thinking i should have got a honch. better quality and half the price

A 12T? You're a bit off on your motor choice...(please see #3 above and driving style). If you don't want to bend your leaf packs, install them in the right order. The Smaller leaf goes below the larger one. I know some say it will limit flex, but only at first. Once broken in, they flex well and keep their shape pretty dang well.

If you really feel this way..." thinking i should have got a honch. better quality and half the price" you're exactly right, you should have got an SCX10. It certainly takes much more flagrant abuse, but to say it's higher quality is absurd. It's a different quality. These TF2's are very detailed and have very stout parts (driveshafts aside). They need a bit of maintenance, but if you think you can get away with not maintaining your SCX10, we'll be reading an angry post in the Axial section by you in two months complaining about knuckles and gears etc etc.

[Postclanker]

I've beat the Crap out of mine...only thing I've bent is my home made tail pipe.
My first comp with it slapped the s$1! Out of it...not sure why you are having issues. Pretty tough truck in my opinion

[1BadJeepBruiser]

Originally Posted by tunnalram

I'm running the main with the middle in front and main with small one above in rear. it has a titan 12T motor. and no I havnt emailed them, still mad about the poor range on my wireless winch so dont wana talk about other issues. its not getting jumped or anything. just tearing around on a beach and some hill climes. thinking i should have got a honch. better quality and half the price

Personally I think you are expecting the truck to do something its not intended to do...a 12 turn motor is a lot of power to be running through something like this in my opinion. Many people a running stock silver cans or 35ts. You are destroying the leafs because if you want to run that kinda power through it your going to need to run a full leaf pack set up...Tearing around the beach up hills with a 12 turn with that leaf set up is asking for axle wrap. I would suggest a track bar, or maybe a sand scorcher??

I understand being up set with a product but if you are having a true manufacturing defect you need to contact the manufacturer.

As far as the end of the shocks coming off on people a little bit of blue lock tight on the threads will solve that. You have to think realistically...I know they come assembled but with 2 metal parts joining that have fine 3mm thread that is going to be seeing a lot of movement is going to need lock tight. If you look through and old Bruiser instruction manual Tamiya wanted you to lock tight everything!

[kikcaffine]

Kinda in the same boat as you. For 400$ I expected alot more. Oh well. The 4 link rear is pretty nice and the 3 link fronts alright, but you have to buy new shocks when you do this (extra 60$). Aside from the metal bumpers mine has all the upgrades they make for it. Im buying an scx10 shortly here because Im realizing I drive the piss out of this little truck (21.5 + shit loads of boost up top) when its really not meant to be (hence 2 speed).

[railripper]

I felt the same way when I got my TF2. After about a month when it was all put together, I finally drove it and was happy about the scale looks/driving I got out of it. However, I couldn't hammer on it as I knew it wasn't built for what an scx10 could handle and it was too nice and would've just sat on my shelf. So I traded it for a well built scx10 locally so I could rebuild the zombie squisher Couldn't have been happier now. But that's just me. Oh and I never broke anything on it as my driving style with this particular rig never exceeded the TF2's durability. I also used scx10 driveshafts instead of the stock ones cuz I already heard about their weakness.

[lunatick]

I,ve broken a few things on mine , but i do use it pretty hard
Its definately not in the same league as a Honcho for both performance and strength , but i didn,t expect it to be considering its a completely different class of truck. I bought mine coz i,d never had a leaf sprung truck and i must say it has really surprised me with what it can do , its far more capable than i ever though it would be ( why i,ve broken things )
Am i glad i bought it HELL YEAH

I still can,t see why you would buy one and ditch the leafs and link it
Buy a SCX 10 and a hard body for less money and end up with a better PERFORMING truck

[Jeepfixer1]

If I were you I'd take out that 12 turn motor and put in a brushless Tekin pro4 3300kv system. Also put in some solid metal links in place of the shocks. Back about 20 ft from a wall and hammer down in second gear of course. Put what's left on sale in the classifieds. ;).