RCCrawler Forums

Lemonlegs28 · 05-20-2010, 03:11 PM

How would i go about making the gearbox closer to bulletproof? I hear about the gears stripping out and the pins all breaking. What have you guys done to avoid this?
Any thoughts welcome
Thanks

jr104 · 05-20-2010, 03:56 PM

Of coarse metal gears when available,and hardened steel pins (1.1 driveshaft needle beering).

On mine I have been focusing alot on strengthening the housing. Trying to emliminate flex, by running bolts through top of gear box (at upper link mount), bolts through axle halfs, solid steering mount with 5 mounting points instead of 3, and a truss tying in passenger side axle tube to main housing.

This mod really increased the strenght and ridgidity of the axle on that side. One step closer to being BULLET PROOF!!

Jake

crawlhog · 05-20-2010, 04:06 PM

i havent had any major problems with mine but i have also strenghtened the housing

jwo · 05-20-2010, 05:57 PM

well im in the works of a 540 swap. after cutting the housing to fit the bigger motor, it leaves a nice size exposed part. i cut and bent up some aluminum sheet to cover the outside of it. drilled some random holes in the sheet and the casing. cleaned and scuffed up the plastic really well. busted out the fiberglass mat and resin. filled in the exposed areas with 3-4 layers of mat where the material was removed. the holes i drilled allowed the resin to flow into the holes and help tie it together when it hardens. i used the mat instead of cloth. much stronger due to the woven fibers in the mat vs. cloth, but it is harder to work with. there is tons of extra room inside the housings of these axles. a warning though fiber glass resin is messy stuff.takes days to get out of your hair and skin

. it can be a pain to work with, but i love using it, but then again i have had tons of practice building fiber glass speaker enclosures and body work on vehicles. im sure there is many other good ways to do it as well. this was just the way i did the first axle and will be doing to the second. i may work on other things to help strengthen it more as well.

Lemonlegs28 · 05-24-2010, 01:52 PM

Thanks guys
oh, and jw i see your name is Jake, too.

jwo · 05-24-2010, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lemonlegs28

Thanks guys
oh, and jw i see your name is Jake, too.

????.... ah no its not, or are you trying to say im copying jr104 in some way?

eggie · 05-24-2010, 06:01 PM

Copycat

Lemonlegs28 · 06-04-2010, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwo

????.... ah no its not, or are you trying to say im copying jr104 in some way?

yeah sorry i was trying to message somone helping me.
not really used to how this site works yet ahah.

dgna5 · 06-04-2010, 06:05 PM

The 1.1 needle barrings kick azz as do all tips above I am making "glass" ribs that span the top of the axle halves under sm. Gussets with the 540 swap I cut 1/4" strips os thin sheet metal and drilled um for the motor screws they r 'c' shaped and wrap the gbox this allowed me to tighten the crap out of the motors and I notched to make the motor adjustable for pinion to primary mesh. I also have bolted threw the box at upper link mount and at the ends by knucks. Jsownes has a thread on pipe rear lockouts I used 1/2" copper water pipe this also stiffens things up and keeps debris out of rear cups

talon0713 · 06-04-2010, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgna5

Jsownes has a thread on pipe rear lockouts I used 1/2" copper water pipe this also stiffens things up and keeps debris out of rear cups

yea i also did that but i used 9/16" pipe to keep the yubing from contacting the bearing. i noticed when i used the 1/2" they rested on the bearing and i didnt like that idea i thought over time it would eat up bearings. so that might be something you will want to check.

jsowens · 06-04-2010, 09:22 PM

Yep, I changed mine up after originally trying the tubing in my how-to thread. Bigger diameter tubing works way better.

dgna5 · 06-04-2010, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by talon0713

yea i also did that but i used 9/16" pipe to keep the yubing from contacting the bearing. i noticed when i used the 1/2" they rested on the bearing and i didnt. like that idea i thought over time it would eat up bearings. so that might be something you will want to check.

Right on I act. Used a 1/2" coupling and had to notch it . The 1/2 " brass I orig. Used definitely was to small but I'm gonna make sure cuz I don't think rubbing the bearings would be good

talon0713 · 06-04-2010, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgna5

Right on I act. Used a 1/2" coupling and had to notch it . The 1/2 " brass I orig. Used definitely was to small but I'm gonna make sure cuz I don't think rubbing the bearings would be good

ya the 9/16 tubing will be a tight fit but it works and you might want to notch it where the knuckle screws come through because they will egg shape the tubing when you tighten it down i liked the egg shape because i thought it helped the fit a little better but i havent tried notching it.

jwo · 06-05-2010, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lemonlegs28

yeah sorry i was trying to message somone helping me.
not really used to how this site works yet ahah.

no biggie, i reread the thread a couple times, and was confused. i know jr104 talked about strengthening with aluminum, as well as i did, so thats why i came to the conclusion of a possible copy catting. we are all here to try and help. i didnt take it the wrong way.

WarHog · 09-15-2010, 06:06 PM

I am using 2 old 12mm 6 point sockets. I havent finished them yet, but, the fit looks good and it'll be a lil extra weight down low.

05-20-2010, 03:11 PM	#1
Lemonlegs28 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Boston Posts: 131	Gearbox Strengthening How would i go about making the gearbox closer to bulletproof? I hear about the gears stripping out and the pins all breaking. What have you guys done to avoid this? Any thoughts welcome Thanks

05-20-2010, 03:56 PM	#2
jr104 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: gilbert az Posts: 199	Of coarse metal gears when available,and hardened steel pins (1.1 driveshaft needle beering). On mine I have been focusing alot on strengthening the housing. Trying to emliminate flex, by running bolts through top of gear box (at upper link mount), bolts through axle halfs, solid steering mount with 5 mounting points instead of 3, and a truss tying in passenger side axle tube to main housing. This mod really increased the strenght and ridgidity of the axle on that side. One step closer to being BULLET PROOF!! Jake Attached Images Last edited by jr104; 05-20-2010 at 04:00 PM.

05-20-2010, 04:06 PM	#3
crawlhog RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: a house Posts: 1,986	gears i havent had any major problems with mine but i have also strenghtened the housing

05-20-2010, 05:57 PM	#4
jwo Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: waterville Posts: 525	well im in the works of a 540 swap. after cutting the housing to fit the bigger motor, it leaves a nice size exposed part. i cut and bent up some aluminum sheet to cover the outside of it. drilled some random holes in the sheet and the casing. cleaned and scuffed up the plastic really well. busted out the fiberglass mat and resin. filled in the exposed areas with 3-4 layers of mat where the material was removed. the holes i drilled allowed the resin to flow into the holes and help tie it together when it hardens. i used the mat instead of cloth. much stronger due to the woven fibers in the mat vs. cloth, but it is harder to work with. there is tons of extra room inside the housings of these axles. a warning though fiber glass resin is messy stuff.takes days to get out of your hair and skin. it can be a pain to work with, but i love using it, but then again i have had tons of practice building fiber glass speaker enclosures and body work on vehicles. im sure there is many other good ways to do it as well. this was just the way i did the first axle and will be doing to the second. i may work on other things to help strengthen it more as well.

06-04-2010, 06:05 PM	#9
dgna5 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: high planes desert Posts: 140	The 1.1 needle barrings kick azz as do all tips above I am making "glass" ribs that span the top of the axle halves under sm. Gussets with the 540 swap I cut 1/4" strips os thin sheet metal and drilled um for the motor screws they r 'c' shaped and wrap the gbox this allowed me to tighten the crap out of the motors and I notched to make the motor adjustable for pinion to primary mesh. I also have bolted threw the box at upper link mount and at the ends by knucks. Jsownes has a thread on pipe rear lockouts I used 1/2" copper water pipe this also stiffens things up and keeps debris out of rear cups Last edited by dgna5; 06-04-2010 at 06:09 PM. Reason: for got to remember

05-24-2010, 01:52 PM	#5
Lemonlegs28 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Boston Posts: 131	Thanks guys oh, and jw i see your name is Jake, too.

05-24-2010, 06:01 PM	#7
eggie Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2010 Location: Central Coast Posts: 111	Copycat

06-04-2010, 09:22 PM	#11
jsowens RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,882	Yep, I changed mine up after originally trying the tubing in my how-to thread. Bigger diameter tubing works way better.

09-15-2010, 06:06 PM	#15
WarHog Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: In Tha Mountains Posts: 211	Just for the record I am using 2 old 12mm 6 point sockets. I havent finished them yet, but, the fit looks good and it'll be a lil extra weight down low.

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Thread: Gearbox Strengthening