09-16-2010, 10:22 AM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Blue Ridge Mtns
Posts: 7
| New HubS?
HI Folks, Just signed up, but have read on the site for awhile. I got an rs10 about a week ago and they are really versatile crawler. So far I have removed the wing and made an aluminum mount at the axles and added larger rod ends. cut away most of the fenders and grille, and added wheel weights (small stick ons). I hate spend money so I siped the original tires and used some end cut snips to remove alot of the lug pattern. I have a mini rockclimb set up and the tire mod was a MAJOR improvement for traction. Im running no foams in front and custom cut foams in the rear. I added the 8T gearing and it really helped on the torque. I will try to post some pics. Now on to my question ... I'm starting to get a little sloppyness at the wheel hub, would aluminum replacements cure this and also does the axial hub parts fit the RS10? Thanks in advance any help is appreciated.
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09-16-2010, 10:26 AM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Home of the ORIGINAL Terminator chassis
Posts: 1,252
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The RS10 comes with aluminum wheel hexes stock. Axial ones should also fit though. I'm guessing you have, but did you check to make sure the wheel nut is fully tightened? If so, I'd guess you plastic wheel hex was wearing before I guessed the aluminum hex is. |
09-16-2010, 11:18 AM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 175
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What kind of slop are you experiencing. Like the wheel is going to fall off, or does it roll back and forth 30-40 degrees before engauging? If its rolling back and forth you may hav sheared the pins holding the inner dogbone collars. They can shear off but the threaded part still keeps it from spinning all the way around. I replaced mine with pins for a traxxas rustler axle shaft. They're easier to get a hold of and a little thicker. You'll have to drill the hole out with 7/64" bit. Axial hubs fit but have a little thinner so you'll have to put a washer on one side of the bearings to space it right for the rs10 axle stubs. Good luck |
09-16-2010, 11:48 AM | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Blue Ridge Mtns
Posts: 7
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Thanks guys, for the info but I may be describing this wrong. The loosenes is in and out at the top and bottom of the tire as you look from a side view, like an upper or lower balljoint is going if it were a full size truck. The thing I refereed to as a hub might be the hub housing? or steering hub? It has the two linkage hook ups on the end of the arm. These are the ones that I thought of for replacements...Thanks again. http://cgi.ebay.com/GH-04033-STEERIN...item43a1073594 Last edited by Cheap Old Dude; 09-16-2010 at 11:50 AM. |
09-16-2010, 11:56 AM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Home of the ORIGINAL Terminator chassis
Posts: 1,252
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Does just the wheel/tire flex as you're describing, or can you actually see the steering knuckle moving as well? There will be a little movement on a stock truck if you force the wheel, but the steering knuckle shouldn't be moving with it. Axial parts will fit in place of the RS10 parts here. |
09-16-2010, 01:25 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Casper, WY
Posts: 540
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I'm running aftermarket AX10 knuckles on mine and they fit great and the slop around the bearing is gone. The only thing to look out for is some AX10 knuckles will require you to shorten/lengthen your tie rod. Not a big deal but something to be aware of.
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09-16-2010, 02:00 PM | #7 | |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Blue Ridge Mtns
Posts: 7
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