how to make strong RS10 axles? or everest 10?

[dirtman71]

Just getting into rock crawling and trying to pick a starting point. I have 3 choices...rs10, everest 10 and mad torque.

all the power systems seem to work fine brushed. I do have a novak edge and 25.5 brushless setup i can run in the E10

My biggest concern is the drivetrain. I want to make it as bullet prof as possible. I would love some links for bolt up metal parts. Like what knuckles will work and shafts. without having an axle to look at an take apart its hard to tell what I need

I dont plan on any comp just messing around in the back yard. I just dont want to break something every time I use it

I have seen a lot of cool looking axle tubes but no mention of what is on the inside

[jstclair]

You can get alum chubs and knuckles. Axial lockers or the alum center diff. Unless you mod the steering for a bunch more angle, the stock axles seem to hold up ok.

I've trimmed the steering stops, added 3 ozs to both front wheels, star cut the foams, and bound mine up pretty good in the rocks.
Stripped both stock diffs, now have Axial lockers and the axles themselves are holding up fine.

[dirtman71]

I dont know how serious I will get with a crawler. Of the 3 I am looking into the rs10 seems to have the most parts suport.

yes it looks like the rs10 will hold up ok in stock fashion. but if or should I say when I mod the steering looks like I need to upgrade the internals
how is this gear set
Redcat Racing RS10 Steel Gear Set 10T Pinion (REDRCT-H106) | RC Planet

this is off the mad torque, will it work in the rs10
Scorpion Locker (Steel)

then I saw this for the RS10....didnt see it on the exploited view
Redcat Racing Differential Assembly (RCT-T007) |RC Car & Truck Parts | RC Planet

thats not a locked diff

[jsowens]

The diff you posted isn't for the RS10. It's most likely for one of their go fast vehicles. Out of the 3 rigs you're considering, the shaft driven rigs (everest and mad torque) will have the most parts support. Mostly because if you wanted to you could swap a built Axial transmission, strong drive shafts, etc... into it. The RS10 is a decent rig, but it's a starter rig and doesn't have that great of bolt on parts support. Some parts from other companies will work, but it's mostly trial and error. One of the big weaknesses is the lack of good motors available for it.

Out of the 3 you listed, I would go for the Everest personally. However, if you want direct parts support availability...you might want to consider an Axial rig.

[dirtman71]

All I am concerned about I getting drivetrain parts when needed

Why would you choose the E10?

[Otis Fudpucker]

The rs10 is not a bad rig if you keep it mild. Don't go with much larger
tires or 3s lipo. If you do you can't upgrade the axles enough to keep
them together (I know from experience).
If you buy one I'd suggest a couple of Tower Pro mg996 servos about
$10 each, hardened diff pins, cut the tires and remove the foams. Then
just drive the snot out of it!!!!
They really are fun little rigs

[dirtman71]

Originally Posted by Otis Fudpucker

The rs10 is not a bad rig if you keep it mild. Don't go with much larger
tires or 3s lipo. If you do you can't upgrade the axles enough to keep
them together (I know from experience).
If you buy one I'd suggest a couple of Tower Pro mg996 servos about
$10 each, hardened diff pins, cut the tires and remove the foams. Then
just drive the snot out of it!!!!
They really are fun little rigs

Over my many years of racing rc I have noticed many different driving styles. I am a racer...not a basher. Oh I still want to have fun but to much power and to much traction at the same time will probably break something.

Some parts just wear out. But 90% of the few times I have broken something it was operator error. I still take that into account when I hear reviews of things that have broken on rigs
I like the price point of the e10 and the fact that I have a brushless system I can put in it. But the high COG and drive shafts and possible weak axcles point me towards the rs10 or the mad torque

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by dirtman71

All I am concerned about I getting drivetrain parts when needed

Why would you choose the E10?

The biggest reason is because if you really wanted to beef it up, you could. You could easily drop in an Axial transmission if you wanted, not to mention beefier driveshafts, good motors, etc... It would have the option to become something quite a bit better than the mad torque (which is a larger crawler at 1:8 scale) and the RS10.

[Otis Fudpucker]

I'm not trying to steer you away from the RS10 by any means. I have bought 3 of them this year, just for the fun to $ ratio. Just giving some insight.
I love tinkering with them. I have built 4 different tube frames for them and have picked up every $5 yard sale New Bright body in town!

[Overkel]

Well the Everest will accept any after market parts designed for the scx10/ax10.
If you were going to build it slowly over time, I'd go with the Redcat. If you were
just going to shell out a bunch of money all at once, I'd probably just go with a
roller SCX10 or ax10 to begin with.

The only reason I'd go with RX10 is if I didn't like shaftys and wanted MOA. Outside of that
the Everest should be easier to make bullet proof.

[dirtman71]

Thanks so much for all the insight

Like I said I know nothing about crawlers. Do I like shaftys? I don't know. I hear there is a bunch of shaft torque. I have a Novak edge and a 25.5...I am not looking for speed just clean clog free power. Will that set up work or is it to much?
I do like the one motor set up of the e10 even if it has a high cog. And I am really not a scaler but it looks like I could turn the e10 into one if I ever wanted. It looks like it would be a chalange to get the rig to really climb well. Which is part of the fun
So drivetrain parts shafts knuckles from the scx10 are a direct fit? Or do they need to be tweeked to work?

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by dirtman71

Thanks so much for all the insight

Like I said I know nothing about crawlers. Do I like shaftys? I don't know. I hear there is a bunch of shaft torque. I have a Novak edge and a 25.5...I am not looking for speed just clean clog free power. Will that set up work or is it to much?
I do like the one motor set up of the e10 even if it has a high cog. And I am really not a scaler but it looks like I could turn the e10 into one if I ever wanted. It looks like it would be a chalange to get the rig to really climb well. Which is part of the fun
So drivetrain parts shafts knuckles from the scx10 are a direct fit? Or do they need to be tweeked to work?

Shaft torque, or torque twist is part of the game of a shaft driven rig. There are hundreds of topics on these forums with various cures for it and things you can do to lessen it...you just have to do some digging.

I never count on anything that is meant for a different rig to be a direct fit on something else. In many cases it'll work fine with no modding required, but keep it in the back of your mind that you might have to tweak the parts. It could be something simple and it could mean breaking out the dremel to make it fit. Just be prepared for the possibility.

[dirtman71]

It's the tweeking that is half the fun to see if you can make it work

I spoke indepth with a buddy that lives out of state that owns several crawlers. He concurs what everybody else says...go with the Everest 10. So I will.

So now I just got to start diging around looking for all the diff mods. Do you think a Brushless 25.5t is too much?