RCCrawler Forums

Ty-bo · 09-12-2009, 11:36 PM

do you guys run a widening kit or stock width? With the wheels I have I had to widen the stance about 3/4 of an inch on both sides and an concerned about breaking the tube with the added force generated with the wide stance. I am not sure where I went wrong but I wish I would have got on here and read before I bought wheels and other bits.:-(. So far this super is costing me a "super" fortune

DeaDShorT · 09-13-2009, 07:50 AM

I've seen some wide axles on clods out there at some comps, I can't say that it causes more issue with broken tubes than a narrower width. It does make sense, the wheels having more leverage being spaced out. A simple axle tube brace makes a big difference.

My track width, with Axial narrow beadlocks and rcp 17mm buggy style adaptors on ThunderTech CVD's is right @ 13". That is with all off the shelf parts with nothing specially modified. I'm actually a 1/2" wider with the CVD's than with stock axles.

Supers take some time to get setup, this will be my 3rd set of different wheels on this truck, and 2nd different electronics setup. Patience my friend, patience

WarMachine · 09-13-2009, 01:56 PM

I'd definitely suggest ditching the plastic tubes in favor of aluminum in stock length. I've busted plastic axle tubes (usually the upper portion of the "C") even though I had inner C braces, beefier aftermarket upper diagonal braces, and even some home-made lower C tie-in bracing.....both prior to, and during crawling.

Stock length simply due to availability of parts, and the varied widths that can be achieved with good hex adapter selection/wheel backspace and wheel width.

With the short tubes you can actually get too narrow for super class IMO. I'd think adding more width to narrow axles via longer hex adapters puts even more stress on what is a proven weak point in my book.

My .02

ToTheMAXXcrawler · 09-13-2009, 02:49 PM

I agree with the axle tube braces and also C-hub braces

. I run them on my super and it is just for a "piece of mind" type of thing you know? My axles are plenty wide in my opinion (at just a little under 13 inches from the middle of both tires) and mine are holding up pretty good. Although my driving style is a little bit more gentle then most people`s driving style. But if they break, its no big deal just go on ebay and pick up some stock ones or invest in some aluminum tubes and your axles will be much more stronger.

Ty-bo · 09-13-2009, 06:50 PM

how the heck do you post pics on this site? I am not very good with computers but I have found a way to do it on other motorcycle forums. Just wanted to show you guys what I have for some different opinions. My width is 12.5 from center of the tires, so I guess its not that wide but if I can post some pics you could see the adaptors I have and how long they are.

DeaDShorT · 09-13-2009, 06:57 PM

Posting Pics For Dummies

BTW-Track width is measured to the outside of the widest part of the tire/rim. Sounds like you are out around 13.5-14 inches, maybe a touch more.

Ty-bo · 09-13-2009, 09:44 PM

Ok here are some pics of my crawler. It is 15.5" wide from outside to outside. The extensions are 1.25" long

DeaDShorT · 09-13-2009, 10:22 PM

Nice

Are those wheels 14mm or 17mm hexes? You could ditch the widener and run a simple delrin or aluminum adaptor that doesn't add the width like what you have. Vendors like RCPCrawlers, TCSCrawlers, RC4WD and others have those adaptors...I used to run a New Era Clod to Maxx size adaptor (12mm to 14mm). Or you could cut and reweld those to give you what you are looking for, if you have access to that equipment. Or a local machine shop if that is a better option for you.

This is a nice piece from TCSCrawlers:
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/RC4WD-17m...1-p-16687.html

shadowrejects · 09-13-2009, 10:25 PM

well the wide tires help with center gravity, but you have to squeeze throw checkpoints, i like average wheelbase, but thats just me lol

Ty-bo · 09-13-2009, 10:45 PM

well here is the thing... I cant narrow it anymore or the tires run on the shocks. If I put the shocks on the inside to gain clearance I get about 160 deg of articulation and it is super floppy, also then the shock shaft will bind on the motor end bell when twisting the one way. What I think would help me out alot is if I could find a wheel with the off-set the other way (with the mount closer to the inside of the rim). They are 17mm adaptors. Also I dont have to worry about squeezing through check points because I dont do the comps...it's just for fun

Ty-bo · 09-13-2009, 10:50 PM

any suggestions on how the hell I am gonna get my steering hooked up?? I cant put the servoon the side of diff cause the links and mounts are in the way. Tryin to make a metal horn just like the stock set-up, not sure what my other options are.

Ideas????

Rjohn929 · 09-14-2009, 03:24 AM

You could mount the servo vertically on the axlebetween the link mount and the gear case. Like this one Dr.Frank's first 4Link thing

big_boss · 09-14-2009, 11:00 AM

Try looking at this guy's builds his done a few.http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk4/rcstuff/
Later

09-12-2009, 11:36 PM	#1
Ty-bo Newbie Join Date: May 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada Posts: 40	Wide or narrow axle????? do you guys run a widening kit or stock width? With the wheels I have I had to widen the stance about 3/4 of an inch on both sides and an concerned about breaking the tube with the added force generated with the wide stance. I am not sure where I went wrong but I wish I would have got on here and read before I bought wheels and other bits.:-(. So far this super is costing me a "super" fortune

09-13-2009, 09:44 PM	#7
Ty-bo Newbie Join Date: May 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada Posts: 40	Ok here are some pics of my crawler. It is 15.5" wide from outside to outside. The extensions are 1.25" long Attached Images

09-13-2009, 10:22 PM	#8
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Nice Are those wheels 14mm or 17mm hexes? You could ditch the widener and run a simple delrin or aluminum adaptor that doesn't add the width like what you have. Vendors like RCPCrawlers, TCSCrawlers, RC4WD and others have those adaptors...I used to run a New Era Clod to Maxx size adaptor (12mm to 14mm). Or you could cut and reweld those to give you what you are looking for, if you have access to that equipment. Or a local machine shop if that is a better option for you. This is a nice piece from TCSCrawlers: http://www.tcscrawlers.com/RC4WD-17m...1-p-16687.html Last edited by DeaDShorT; 09-13-2009 at 10:30 PM.

09-13-2009, 07:50 AM	#2
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	I've seen some wide axles on clods out there at some comps, I can't say that it causes more issue with broken tubes than a narrower width. It does make sense, the wheels having more leverage being spaced out. A simple axle tube brace makes a big difference. My track width, with Axial narrow beadlocks and rcp 17mm buggy style adaptors on ThunderTech CVD's is right @ 13". That is with all off the shelf parts with nothing specially modified. I'm actually a 1/2" wider with the CVD's than with stock axles. Supers take some time to get setup, this will be my 3rd set of different wheels on this truck, and 2nd different electronics setup. Patience my friend, patience

09-13-2009, 01:56 PM	#3
WarMachine Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: LeMars, Iowa Posts: 158	I'd definitely suggest ditching the plastic tubes in favor of aluminum in stock length. I've busted plastic axle tubes (usually the upper portion of the "C") even though I had inner C braces, beefier aftermarket upper diagonal braces, and even some home-made lower C tie-in bracing.....both prior to, and during crawling. Stock length simply due to availability of parts, and the varied widths that can be achieved with good hex adapter selection/wheel backspace and wheel width. With the short tubes you can actually get too narrow for super class IMO. I'd think adding more width to narrow axles via longer hex adapters puts even more stress on what is a proven weak point in my book. My .02

09-13-2009, 02:49 PM	#4
ToTheMAXXcrawler Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Lutz Posts: 457	I agree with the axle tube braces and also C-hub braces . I run them on my super and it is just for a "piece of mind" type of thing you know? My axles are plenty wide in my opinion (at just a little under 13 inches from the middle of both tires) and mine are holding up pretty good. Although my driving style is a little bit more gentle then most people`s driving style. But if they break, its no big deal just go on ebay and pick up some stock ones or invest in some aluminum tubes and your axles will be much more stronger.

09-13-2009, 06:50 PM	#5
Ty-bo Newbie Join Date: May 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada Posts: 40	how the heck do you post pics on this site? I am not very good with computers but I have found a way to do it on other motorcycle forums. Just wanted to show you guys what I have for some different opinions. My width is 12.5 from center of the tires, so I guess its not that wide but if I can post some pics you could see the adaptors I have and how long they are.

09-13-2009, 06:57 PM	#6
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Posting Pics For Dummies BTW-Track width is measured to the outside of the widest part of the tire/rim. Sounds like you are out around 13.5-14 inches, maybe a touch more.

09-13-2009, 10:25 PM	#9
shadowrejects Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Frisco, Texas Posts: 721	well the wide tires help with center gravity, but you have to squeeze throw checkpoints, i like average wheelbase, but thats just me lol

09-13-2009, 10:45 PM	#10
Ty-bo Newbie Join Date: May 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada Posts: 40	well here is the thing... I cant narrow it anymore or the tires run on the shocks. If I put the shocks on the inside to gain clearance I get about 160 deg of articulation and it is super floppy, also then the shock shaft will bind on the motor end bell when twisting the one way. What I think would help me out alot is if I could find a wheel with the off-set the other way (with the mount closer to the inside of the rim). They are 17mm adaptors. Also I dont have to worry about squeezing through check points because I dont do the comps...it's just for fun

09-13-2009, 10:50 PM	#11
Ty-bo Newbie Join Date: May 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada Posts: 40	any suggestions on how the hell I am gonna get my steering hooked up?? I cant put the servoon the side of diff cause the links and mounts are in the way. Tryin to make a metal horn just like the stock set-up, not sure what my other options are. Ideas????

09-14-2009, 03:24 AM	#12
Rjohn929 RCC Addict Join Date: May 2009 Location: Weston Posts: 1,319	You could mount the servo vertically on the axlebetween the link mount and the gear case. Like this one Dr.Frank's first 4Link thing

09-14-2009, 11:00 AM	#13
big_boss Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Israel Posts: 228	Try looking at this guy's builds his done a few.http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk4/rcstuff/ Later

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