Clod Crawler Newbie

[Tbone]

I just picked up a clod crawler but it's not in the best shape.
The chassis looks ok but the suspension is made up of poor home made links which are beyond repair.

It's got a TQ3 radio with 3rd channel switch mod for the rear steering. The front servo is a hs645mg and the rear is a hs311(I think). The rear servo will probably have to be upgraded.

Tekin Titan speed control, planning on using it for now.

The motors are supposedly novak 55turns but the labels have been removed so I can't be sure.

The tires are IMEX rock crawlr's but again have seen much better days.

The gearboxes both have locked diffs and adjustable motor mounts. Currently running 9tooth pinions. Two axle tubes are broken and all the steering knuckles have been broken, some have been cobbled back together but all need to be replaced. One axle needs to be replaced too.

There is no body but that's the least of my concerns right now.

I'd like to get this thing together without breaking the bank. For now I can just replace the axle tubes and knuckles with stock plastic parts to save money. The chassis could be used but new suspension would have to be bought or built for it.

Any ideas/opinions would be appreciated. I have done some searching and reading on this site but would like some ideas from others who have tried and tested different set ups.

Thanks

[WarMachine]

Post up a picture of what your working with, that'll help.

A well rounded clod based crawler can be done on a budget, no sweat. Sounds like you already have a good start.

[Tbone]

I don't know why I can't post pics...doesn't seem to work

Here's the link to the pic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10160805@N07/3970772576/

Let me know what you think.

[Mudsy]

The shocks are way too long and IMO the Rc Gekko chassis (I think that's what's it called) isn't the best for crawler...However If you're on a tight budget, you can always get a JPcustoms Pimpcane which is about 40 some bucks. That's all you need to get crawling.... no shocks or links to mess with. Just use search button and look around.

[Tbone]

Thanks, I'll look into the pimpcane. I don't know what the shocks are from but they look huge.

[ToTheMAXXcrawler]

Yea those look WAY too long. They almost look like savage shocks actually. I bet you could Ebay most if not all your parts. I did that for my TA02 drift car and some parts for my Super build. You might even score a killer chassis also, never know. But it look like you got a hell of a start!

[Tbone]

The shocks are 6.5" extended and 4.5" fully compressed, eye to eye. Don't think they will work.

I don't know wether to just get plastic axle tubes/knuckles for now or look into aluminum right away.

The pimpcane might work but I haven't seen one in person. I think a chassis/4-link setup might crawl better though. I have seen some youtube videos of the pimpcane and the price is good.

Buying as much as possible used would be the easiest thing to do. I have also considered keeping the chassis I've got and making up some links. It would be time consuming but would be nice once it's done.

Any idea how to identify the motors if they have no labels? I also don't know if one of them is reverse rotation; will have to check how they're wired.

[ToTheMAXXcrawler]

I say get your plastic axle tubes for right now. Then save up for the aluminum parts later on down the road. But while your replacing the axle tubes, throw in some bearings also if you can.

[Tbone]

I'll just run the plastic stuff for now. Took apart one gearcase tonight and found it's already got full bearings, good to know.

One of the driveshafts is no good, the crosspin is gone. Probably just get a stock replacement for that too.

I do need all 4 Knuckles so will compare the cost of plastic to aluminum. Can I get aluminum knuckles that will work with the stock axletubes for now until I upgrade them?

[ToTheMAXXcrawler]

I believe they will work with the stock plastic axle tubes. Dont hold me to that though....i hope someone can chime in on this one for you bud.

[Tbone]

So I just bought a length of 7/16 delrin rod to make suspension links. I will be getting revo rod ends and I think 8-32 threaded rod should work. I'm thinking of making the links 6-7 inches long which should give me a wheel base around 16" or so.

Any opinions? I haven't cut the delrin to length yet so there's still time to adjust the size.

[Tbone]

Well, I also just picked up a set of aluminum integy caster blocks/knuckles and have a few questions for those of you experienced with these.

I need to know where to set the caster, I assume straight.

I also need a way to mount the steering servos as they are currently on the stock axle braces which are no longer used with these caster blocks.

Any ideas would be great

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10160805@N07/3991317339/

[ToTheMAXXcrawler]

Damn those are nice! lol Just say the pics on your flickr lol. Anyways....I think its Thundertech racing taht makes a servo mount that makes the servo mount vertically. Or what you could fo is make your own. I made my own when i mounted my 1/4 scale servos. Just use the bolts that bolt the axles tubes to the gearbox case and just get longer screws and just bolt some sort of 90degree plate that holds your servo. I have pics of my servo mounts in a thread in here just search for it and it can give you a better idea of what im talking about.

[4ONDFLR]

IMO the 7/16 delrin rod is gonna be too flimzy for the weight of a super. unless its delrin tube with the allthread going all the way through and that still might be a little ify! i run 1/2" solid delrin rod tapped with revo rod ends. as far as the integy caser blocks you got i dont know much about them but have not heard very many good things about integy if anything at all. but we learn by trial and error and im sure you can run them until you find you need something else without too many issues. if you have any other questions jus fire away

[Rjohn929]

The only bad thing about the Integy aluminum is that it might not be as strong as some of the others. I run Integy and I can tell you it definitely not the week link on my truck.

[Tbone]

It's been a while but I've finally made some progress. I made up the lower links and used some old links as temporary uppers to mock it up.

My first problem is the caster setup; how much caster should I run? Once I figure this out I can make upper links accordingly.


Due to the design of the chassis and link end positioning the caster changes as the suspension compresses. I think the ride height should be about here:


I currently have the lower links on the outside of the frame but could move the links to the inside of the frame. To mount them inside it would be necessary to cut down the battery tray; not a big deal as I will be running lipos. Any opinions on this?

The chassis isn't the best but it's what I've got for now. I will also need to find some shocks. I need to make the upper links, find the ride height and see what will fit. I could use some advice on how to set that up too. Should the shocks be at half travel at the ride height above?

I also need some wheels and tires, these have definately seen better days. I see most people are narrowing rims and making their own tires but I'd prefer not to have that much work involved. It might be a bit soon but I could use some tire/wheel ideas. I will also need some wheel adapters, depending of course on wheel choice. I do like the look of the plowboys.

Thanks for any advice.

[Tbone]

I took a few minutes and put together this servo mount idea. This is a rough trial which would have to be refined before I use it. It would mount to two of the axle tube screws at the bottom and the gearcase up top with a spacer. I had originally thought of mounting the servo on the opposite side but might use this side.
The steering link will go to the opposite side knuckle, regardless of which side the servo mount is on.