just finished my new scale buggy

[Kamikaze]

I just finished today exept for some vinal decals but all of the hard stuff is done.
Nylint 1/6 claws, clod axles, locked, 55t, 9 tooth, dual intellaspeed esc's, 4 channel futaba tx, tmaxx shocks,hytec hs-645mg w/ aluminum horns. 18 inch w/b 6.25" ground clearance.

[Flake]

Very nice, I like the way those Nylint tires look on there.

[jcruiser70]

Are those Nylint wheels stronger than the 1:18's, I've found the 1:18's to be quite brittle.

[Johnson420]

Nice Rig

How did you mount the Nylint 1/6 claws on the Clod axles?

[ColquittCustom405]

MMMMan that's farken nice dude! I love the Nylint wheels on there. Very nice, I would base a build off this one. PROPS!

[dezfan]

Looks great! Now we need some crawling pics!

[Wild trial]

Looks cool man.
But your batt could be in the front.

[DISTURBIN' tha PEACE]

Looks like your front links are longer that the rears? Any reason for that?

[INFERNAL]

Sweet!!!!

[Kamikaze]

i put the battery there for the same reason that 1:1 rigs with mid engine designs work better, i had all of the weight up front in my last clod and it seemed to want to fall to one side or the other during offcamber climbs on a slippery surface, by shifting the weight slightly toward the rear the vehicle tends to hold an upward course instead of trying to turn around. I don't worry about flipping over backward because i have independant throtle control of the front and rear axle, which also gives me a 0 turning radius.Only the lower front links are longer than the rest because of the mounting position and because the front geometry was geared toward stability and the rear for flex, it balances out well. The shorter links are 7 inches and the longer two are 8.

I have some pictures of the finished decals (made those to) but unfortunatly I broke a stub shaft so no whelling pics for about a week until my new ones get here, but I can tell you that this one workes very well. I built it the same way I build 1:1 rigs and I am very pleased, It's not overly flexy but it is very stable.

The nylint tires are way better the k rocks that I was running, If you cut off all of the short lugs they become very pliable at the tread but the sidwall is perfect. I did a search on how to adapt them, it's realy cheap, the parts were $10 and all you have to do is releve a little material on the rim and the fit perfect, just use locktight on the nuts. the whole setup is only $30.00. if i had known that I wouldn't have bought the k-rocks and the bead locks.

[dezfan]

Could we get a few pics of the back side of those Nylint wheels after you have modified them. Looks great and can't wait for the crawling pics! Thanks

[Kamikaze]

you actualy modify the outside of the wheel, you just have to take a drill bit about a 1/2 inch bit and counter sink the rim a little but you have to be careful cause you can remove to much. here's some picks

[Kamikaze]

maybe this is a better pic one is unmodified and one is

[Kamikaze]

here's a k-rock and a nylint comperason

[dezfan]

Thanks, the pics worked out fine. I was under the impression that the rear of the wheel was the area being modded.:?

[procrawler-wannabe]

Very nice looking crawler. How much does it weight?

[clodman]

that = Sweet!

[tjcrawler]

How is it that you have independant control of the front and rear axles? I see that you have dual esc's but I've never built a crawler (or seen one in person for that matter) so I wouldn't know how to wire it up. How does the controller work? Sorry for all the dumb newbie questions.

P.S. thats one of the best looking tube crawlers I've seen, interested in selling a copy frame?

[Kamikaze]

I would sell you 1 but you would need to pm me for details cause I don't have a vender star. I have a 4 channel tx, a futaba attack 4wd (pn futj60) it looks just like an airplane transmitter. With two esc you run one to one channel and one to another channel with a channel for each steering servo. I have mine setup for the front axle on the left stick and the rear axle on the right stick. To drive forward you push both sticks forward, but you have unlimited control of how the proportion of the axles drive, you can bias the wheel spin or tourque to the front or the rear or even the direction. This comes in handy for climbing and also helps eliminate axle stall by compleatly seperating the motors. By turning both wheels left and driving the front axle forward and the rear backwards you can turn in one spot. also if you turn one wheel left and one right with the front in drive and the rear in reverse you can slide sideways, it takes some getting used to but it is well worth it. It will greatly increase your driving abillities, that's why I don't want to build a shafty cause this would be impossible without one motor on each axle.I'll build you a frame if you want, and anybody else for that matter.

[Kamikaze]

I just reversed my rear axle and it works extremly well, also I fixed my stubshaft and as soon as it quits raining I will post some action shots. For the 20 minutes that I got to drive it i was very impressed with the reversed rear end.