Stock steering questions

[1of1547]

I finally got my Clod under under it's own power (sorta ) for the first time last night. The steering on this thing is a joke. I wasn't expecting Ferrari performance, but better than what it is. I have some questions on making it better. I will assume since most of the steering is plastic, most of it deflects under pressure. I plan on making new aluminum or stainless links (all six) from the servo out to the wheels. I also plan on making new aluminum steering kit in time. I would think that these would help it turn better since there is no deflection. I've also read about trimming the steering stops off of the factory knuckles. Is this worth the effort? Would this cause any problems. It looks like the tires may rub the frame unless wheel spacer are used. They are also on the machine list, but farther down the line.

It has a Traxxas 2055 servo in it now. Everything I've read says its a high torque servo. Is this a good servo for the truck?
Thanks,

[benoj]

there are companies that make the steering parts from aluminum to rid of the slack and so called servo saver. as for ur servo it is pretty weak to turn all 4 of those tires. i run a futaba with the same torque rating and it barely could do 2 wheels let alone all 4. u should look into a sevo with over 200oz/in torque 300-400 would be ideal

[bigd003]

I have run two servos working in unison, with equal length arms on each servo, connected via turnbuckle and ball joint. so they both turn with eachother, inside the chassis thru the linkages to steer my clod. it works good, cheap ( free extra parts ), fun to do also. I will try to get a pic up of how i did this.

[rj_dio]

Yes, you will need wheels spacers because the tires will rub at full lock. I cut off the steering stops which didn't help because the tires hit before full lock was reached.

I also tried the one servo and you need a REALLY strong servo to turn all 4 wheels. As you noticed, there is so much slop in the steering that a strong servo will lose alot in the slop. The stock servo savers will also break once you improve the the slop. I REALLY wanted to stay with a stock looking clod but wanted better steering. I eventually went with axle mounted servos out of disgust (poor steering and breakage) with the stock set-up. If you can only use one servo I also recommend sticking with just steering 2 wheels.

Another choice that I didn't want to do, but am very happy with because it solves many Clod issues, is to go with tall 2.2 tires and wheels. I'm running Rovers which are only a little shorter than the Clod tires and the steering, and traction are WAY, WAY, better! Also don't need spacers, and it's easier on the servos! It looks more Top Truck Challenge than Monster, but boy does it drive great!

[1of1547]

Thanks for the info guys. I'd appreciate if you could get some pictures and details about the dual servos. Which single servo would have enough power to get the job done? I am really trying to keep a "stock" look with my Clod.

I think that I'm going to start working on the spacers and steering this week. I had it outside for the first time last night. And it was dog walking pretty hard. It really needs a alignment. The guy before me put some kind of link between the hubs that is too long. The tires more or a less sit "wingfooted". My guess is that they are off of another R/C of some kind. They are probably 1/4 black plastic with a metal threaded insert.

It's funny that you said about only being able to turn one set of tires. Mine mainly streers with the back tires. And that really messes with my mind.

[ratpower396]

even stock the clod while running uses more of the rear steering than the front so you arent seeing things that are out of whack..I used dubro turbuckles from tower in different legths & traxxas ball ends & the steering is much tighter than it was.. I have the aluminum servo saver replacement pieces so a good hit might break something but then again oh well.

[1of1547]

Thanks that explains a lot. I've got some 1/4 aluminum and some Traxxas end links. Its' cut to rough lengths. Hopefully I will be able to get into a lathe soon and make it all work!!!

Has anyone ever ran both links from the center arm to the spindles instaed of the factory set up? It seems like it would work and eliminate the one link that goes across the front of the rear.

[1of1547]

One other question, I both of the Mickey Mouse servo savers are replaced with aluminum parts. Does another servo saver need to be installed some where in the system?