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05-10-2006, 08:21 PM
| #1 |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
|  my first clod and first clrawler PROJECT EVO TUBER (part 1)
well building my first ever crawler. gonna be clod axled. gonna be a budget build. everything u see here + the axles (not shown) im at $385 heres where im at so far.... i figured im just gonna go all out on my first dive into crawlers/clods. the chassis will not be used. used it for reference(mount locations) for making the "U" chassis u see. yes those lower ears are getting cut off. ;) next step welding "U"s, drilling mount holes, and building lower half of the tuber. will be 16" WB.  heres the design i drew up...  *UPDATED PICS ADDED BELOW! Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 05-13-2006 at 06:44 PM. |
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05-10-2006, 09:38 PM
| #2 |
| I lost my vendor privileges Join Date: May 2006 Location: TOP OF THE HILL
Posts: 3,014
| looks good
that tuber kinda looks like the one i just finished i see that you have nylint tires they grip pretty good. i have a 1/6 nylint jeep with a few mods i turned the inside of my rim around backwards and took those inserts out of the tires to make them run flatter and more narrow works decent.  |
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05-10-2006, 09:50 PM
| #3 |
| I lost my vendor privileges Join Date: May 2006 Location: TOP OF THE HILL
Posts: 3,014
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the nylint tires grip good do you know anywhere to get some adapters to make them bolt direst fit to the clodbuster hubs or axles? i just screwed the clod hubs to the back side of the rims works ok but doesn't last long stips out hubs. now i just use narrowed stock clod tires with modified tread and rims.
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05-10-2006, 11:17 PM
| #4 | |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
| Quote:
i went with the nylint 1/6 wheels because this is gonna be a "scale" build and u cant beat the look of them. every other tire ive seen looks rediculous. there too wide for there height. and two, because u cant beat $5 for 4 beadlock wheels and tires for my budget build. heres the bag http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGB72&P=Z | |
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05-12-2006, 07:15 AM
| #5 |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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man, not much love for me the newbie :( 150+ views and one guy comments. im used to you guys always giveing everyone such a warm welcome, and commenting on there works in progresses.... guys yall got tired of my 2938798475 clod questions lol |
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05-12-2006, 08:00 AM
| #6 |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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Looks like it has potential. You need to marinade those Wally Crawler tires to really get them nice and tacky. Check the tire and wheel section. Looking good!
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05-12-2006, 08:18 AM
| #7 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bedias, Texas
Posts: 1,083
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Looks good my friend. Hey, keep us updated with pics if you have the time. I for one would certainly like to see this build up in process.
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05-12-2006, 08:48 AM
| #8 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
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Looks like your off to a great start. Now put all the parts on and show use the build up.
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05-12-2006, 10:21 AM
| #9 |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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yea ill definatly keep yall updated. im headed home now to finish welding up the "U" chassis plates. and tommorrow ill drill the 9234759875 holes haha. ill also get the chassis spacers made, gonna use the 1/4" brake line with 4-40 bolts silver soldered in the ends. im gonna space the plates 3.25 apart. well time to get dirty  |
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05-13-2006, 04:09 PM
| #10 |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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woo hoo! got the center section done! plates are all welded, ground smooth, and drilled. the "spacer" bars also double as mounting points for the shocks and lower links. saves the clutter and weight of 8 more bolts and nuts (hey every little bit helps on this heavy mo-fo )the PLAN is to be able to cut off the lower ears on the chassis plates. and use the top mounting hole (as shown) for the lower links. that will let me cut off those ears. they will add weight and will catch on every rock im sure. of course everything here is raw. once its all mocked and and final tested. ill break everything down and paint the chassis and tube body (will eventually be one peice) the "spacers" are the same 1/4" tubing as the exo frame/tuber. i just ground down the heads of the 4-40 screws to perfectly fit inside the tube and then silver soldered them.   |
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05-15-2006, 06:57 AM
| #11 |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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and here it is assembled. the links u see are NOT the ones ill be useing, these shortys are for a 14" Wheel base, my 16" links will be here monday.   here she is with the upper exo tuber on. once i get the axles in and all the mounts and links are attached where there gonna be, ill check clearances and build the lower half of the tuber and silver solder it to the chassis plates makeing it one solid peice.   again the wheel base will be 2" longer than shown here with the new links will be like the plan at the top. cant wait to finish this thing! |
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05-16-2006, 07:37 AM
| #12 |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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what do yall think? post up your thoughts..please..... got my longer 16" WB links in yesterday. they look much better. comments welcome! |
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05-16-2006, 07:48 AM
| #13 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Asia
Posts: 510
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not bad ... but why not go with a full tuber instead of this hybrid?
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05-16-2006, 12:11 PM
| #14 | |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
| Quote:
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05-22-2006, 07:16 PM
| #15 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Asia
Posts: 510
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you've shown us what you can do ... i'd invest a little more time making it into a real tuber. there are hundreds of tubers in this forum, search and be inspired!  |
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06-12-2006, 10:50 AM
| #16 |
| ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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Fiiiiiiiinally got some axles. and made some more progess. switched to g-made upper links. and mounted axles. also u can see in the background i got my 5000 Mah pack soildered up.  heres after the lower shock mounts are on. gonna have to put collars on the inner side too.  next up is finish wireing(motors) and build the bottom tuber half and silver solder the chassis plates to the tuber body...... |
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06-12-2006, 10:55 AM
| #17 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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Looking good!
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06-12-2006, 06:22 PM
| #18 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: $t. Helen$, OR
Posts: 1,082
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Nice looking build I would love to do a clod build, but I am going to live with the Nylinted-Clod for now :-P |
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06-12-2006, 07:23 PM
| #19 |
| Built, not bought   Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Gresham
Posts: 4,504
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Looking good so far.Keep the pics coming.We like progress reports. |
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06-14-2006, 02:57 AM
| #20 |
| Pebble Pounder  Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Chattanooga
Posts: 139
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I thought of a similar build but using aluminum tube chassis that would bolt on.This would give you a very light tuber with a low CG.As the aluminum gets tweaked the steel sub frame would keep suspension geometry from changing.By bolting it on it would be easy to fix bending or change totally. Just an idea,looks like a solid build so far. |
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