RCCrawler Forums

scruff007 · 06-19-2006, 11:08 PM

I got started build a clod for my nephew today. The shocks are not the ones that are going to be used. The Rock Bull 2 chassis is nice but I don't know if I like the bent lower links. They seem to have to much side to side play in them. I would prefer straight ones. This thing is going to have serious ground clearance. It may be to much. I can't wait to get it built but he still lacks elecs., radio, wheels, tires, ESC, batteries and motors. I'm hoping that it will crawl well. This build is new to me. I run a TLT so this ones a little different. Comments and suggestions welcome. Thanks.

dezfan · 06-19-2006, 11:31 PM

See it you can get a set of straight lower links. The bent links are notorious for braking right at the ball end.

Also, try to keep your ground clearance around 4 inch or so. Ground clearance is great, but it will hurt your center of gravity to be so high.

Good luck!

STANG KILLA SS · 06-20-2006, 07:03 AM

i agree, move yoiur lower shock mounts outward, and lowering the center section 1.5"-2"

shocks may get too horizontal though....

kidcurry73 · 06-20-2006, 09:13 AM

Dont the links go the other way? The bend should be closer to the axle. That would make it "not so high".

DirkDigler · 06-20-2006, 09:40 AM

I'm speachless....

Tuffguy · 06-20-2006, 12:03 PM

Holy ground clearance batman!!!!!!!

BrandonW · 06-20-2006, 12:11 PM

moon crawler....

scruff007 · 06-20-2006, 03:28 PM

According to the instructions, the lower links go the way they are in the pic.
We're either going to put straight lower links on it or mount the shocks further down the lower links.

EeePee · 06-20-2006, 04:43 PM

Wow.

At least mount the shocks so the upper links are parallel to the ground. Move the upper shock bolt about two inches up.

rcracer · 06-20-2006, 05:11 PM

and I thought the stick had serious clearance

kidcurry73 · 06-20-2006, 05:48 PM

I still think they would be better like this...not so high!

clod booster · 06-20-2006, 09:18 PM

cool, lots of clearance!

Robb · 06-20-2006, 09:33 PM

Move the upper links to the position shown in this pic. Once you get the proper shocks installed, and installed properly, plus add the weight on the "inards" and let everything settle out, it should end up a little like this........................
http://rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/clod...Blade/g1/2.jpg

Rockpiledriver · 06-21-2006, 10:12 AM

No... It should be set up like this with straight links. Trust me.

BENDER · 06-21-2006, 12:09 PM

x2 ^^^^^^^^

CrawlAZ · 06-21-2006, 09:17 PM

yeah i like the straight links better

BigRedB2 · 06-22-2006, 05:56 PM

Hey guys, scruffs nephew here...thanks for the feed back. Not sure how the lower links are gonna look on the finished product. As with any project it never really ends up like you pictured it in your mind. I like RockPile's lower links, eliminates the need for lower link mounts. Im probably gonna work with these and see how we can adjust it out. Keep the comments coming...this is my first hobby grade build (hence why scruff is doing almost all the work). Im stepping up from a nylint so its all new to me.

Rockpiledriver · 06-23-2006, 12:21 PM

Ok... here's what I think is the easiest way to set up your chassis.

Forget the hex lowers. They aren't that great.

Take your upper links and move them to the bottom like the hex links are in the pic I posted. Now, you are going to have to make new uppers. You can
cut off the bent part of you current lowers and redrill and tap those links, if you have a long enough straght section, and use those as uppers. Or, you could just make new uppers using the allthread / sleeve method. Use the plastic cable clamps for link mounts on the lowers but add set screw collars on either side of the clamp to keep the in place. (like on an NN)

I'm not sure if those TLT shocks are going to cut it. I would find a set of regular old T-Maxx type shock and use them. Unlike the pic I posted you will want to mount you new shocks upside down so that the ball link is at the top.
Ditch the upper shock mounts that came with your kit, and mount them in the same hole in the chassis that you see in the pic. You may need a cone washer behind the upper shock mount to keep the shocks from contacting the chassis during articulation. Then, adjust the lower shock mounts so that at rest, the upper links are parallel to the ground.

Also, mount your batteries on top of the upper links, and put the electronics on the center plate.

Hope that helps.

BrandO · 06-25-2006, 11:42 AM

Brian, I have the same chassis for my Clod. Let me know if I can help. I have done a bunch of trial and error with mine. It runs pretty good now that the bugs are worked out.

scruff007 · 07-08-2006, 01:20 PM

Thanks for all the comments and advice. Haven't looked at this thread for awhile. Been waiting for my nephew to get more parts. Now it's time to get busy. The first pics were a little bit much. We're going to run it with the bent links for now and probably change to straight soon. Specs on rig are.

Chassis: Rockbull 2 w/ locked Clod's of course.

ESC: Duratrax IS Autosport F/R

Motors: 55Turn - 1 Integy and 1 Eagle Racing. Both the same from what I understand.

Servo: Hitec HS-645MG Ultra Torque

Shocks: Not sure yet.

Wheels: Proline Outback 40 series

Tires: Proline 40 ser. Moab XL's

Receiver: Not sure yet.

06-19-2006, 11:08 PM	#1
scruff007 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Winston-Salem Posts: 328	Uncle Scruffles new project I got started build a clod for my nephew today. The shocks are not the ones that are going to be used. The Rock Bull 2 chassis is nice but I don't know if I like the bent lower links. They seem to have to much side to side play in them. I would prefer straight ones. This thing is going to have serious ground clearance. It may be to much. I can't wait to get it built but he still lacks elecs., radio, wheels, tires, ESC, batteries and motors. I'm hoping that it will crawl well. This build is new to me. I run a TLT so this ones a little different. Comments and suggestions welcome. Thanks. Last edited by scruff007; 06-19-2006 at 11:25 PM.

06-19-2006, 11:31 PM	#2
dezfan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK. Posts: 12,563	See it you can get a set of straight lower links. The bent links are notorious for braking right at the ball end. Also, try to keep your ground clearance around 4 inch or so. Ground clearance is great, but it will hurt your center of gravity to be so high. Good luck! Last edited by dezfan; 06-21-2006 at 12:12 PM.

06-20-2006, 09:33 PM	#13
Robb RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR Posts: 1,826	Move the upper links to the position shown in this pic. Once you get the proper shocks installed, and installed properly, plus add the weight on the "inards" and let everything settle out, it should end up a little like this........................ http://rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/clod...Blade/g1/2.jpg Last edited by Robb; 06-20-2006 at 09:35 PM.

06-20-2006, 07:03 AM	#3
STANG KILLA SS ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX Posts: 10,056	i agree, move yoiur lower shock mounts outward, and lowering the center section 1.5"-2" shocks may get too horizontal though....

06-20-2006, 09:13 AM	#4
kidcurry73 Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: the "not" hot part of Arizona!! Posts: 55	Dont the links go the other way? The bend should be closer to the axle. That would make it "not so high".

06-20-2006, 09:40 AM	#5
DirkDigler I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 5,027	I'm speachless....

06-20-2006, 12:03 PM	#6
Tuffguy Gold Star Baby Momma! Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Maumelle, Ar Posts: 713	Holy ground clearance batman!!!!!!!

06-20-2006, 12:11 PM	#7
BrandonW RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: USA Posts: 1,043	moon crawler....

06-20-2006, 03:28 PM	#8
scruff007 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Winston-Salem Posts: 328	According to the instructions, the lower links go the way they are in the pic. We're either going to put straight lower links on it or mount the shocks further down the lower links.

06-20-2006, 04:43 PM	#9
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	Wow. At least mount the shocks so the upper links are parallel to the ground. Move the upper shock bolt about two inches up.

06-20-2006, 05:11 PM	#10
rcracer Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 567	and I thought the stick had serious clearance

06-20-2006, 05:48 PM	#11
kidcurry73 Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: the "not" hot part of Arizona!! Posts: 55	I still think they would be better like this...not so high!

06-20-2006, 09:18 PM	#12
clod booster Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Salem, Orcrc Posts: 756	cool, lots of clearance!

Sponsored Links

06-21-2006, 12:09 PM	#15
BENDER 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake Posts: 8,328	x2 ^^^^^^^^

06-21-2006, 10:12 AM	#14
Rockpiledriver I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 5,027	No... It should be set up like this with straight links. Trust me.

06-21-2006, 09:17 PM	#16
CrawlAZ Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Scottsdale Posts: 180	yeah i like the straight links better

06-22-2006, 05:56 PM	#17
BigRedB2 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Winston Salem Posts: 235	Hey guys, scruffs nephew here...thanks for the feed back. Not sure how the lower links are gonna look on the finished product. As with any project it never really ends up like you pictured it in your mind. I like RockPile's lower links, eliminates the need for lower link mounts. Im probably gonna work with these and see how we can adjust it out. Keep the comments coming...this is my first hobby grade build (hence why scruff is doing almost all the work). Im stepping up from a nylint so its all new to me.

06-23-2006, 12:21 PM	#18
Rockpiledriver I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 5,027	Ok... here's what I think is the easiest way to set up your chassis. Forget the hex lowers. They aren't that great. Take your upper links and move them to the bottom like the hex links are in the pic I posted. Now, you are going to have to make new uppers. You can cut off the bent part of you current lowers and redrill and tap those links, if you have a long enough straght section, and use those as uppers. Or, you could just make new uppers using the allthread / sleeve method. Use the plastic cable clamps for link mounts on the lowers but add set screw collars on either side of the clamp to keep the in place. (like on an NN) I'm not sure if those TLT shocks are going to cut it. I would find a set of regular old T-Maxx type shock and use them. Unlike the pic I posted you will want to mount you new shocks upside down so that the ball link is at the top. Ditch the upper shock mounts that came with your kit, and mount them in the same hole in the chassis that you see in the pic. You may need a cone washer behind the upper shock mount to keep the shocks from contacting the chassis during articulation. Then, adjust the lower shock mounts so that at rest, the upper links are parallel to the ground. Also, mount your batteries on top of the upper links, and put the electronics on the center plate. Hope that helps.

06-25-2006, 11:42 AM	#19
BrandO Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 560	Brian, I have the same chassis for my Clod. Let me know if I can help. I have done a bunch of trial and error with mine. It runs pretty good now that the bugs are worked out.

07-08-2006, 01:20 PM	#20
scruff007 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Winston-Salem Posts: 328	Thanks for all the comments and advice. Haven't looked at this thread for awhile. Been waiting for my nephew to get more parts. Now it's time to get busy. The first pics were a little bit much. We're going to run it with the bent links for now and probably change to straight soon. Specs on rig are. Chassis: Rockbull 2 w/ locked Clod's of course. ESC: Duratrax IS Autosport F/R Motors: 55Turn - 1 Integy and 1 Eagle Racing. Both the same from what I understand. Servo: Hitec HS-645MG Ultra Torque Shocks: Not sure yet. Wheels: Proline Outback 40 series Tires: Proline 40 ser. Moab XL's Receiver: Not sure yet.

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