RCCrawler Forums

grover · 02-19-2005, 10:40 PM

Spent some time watching the PARC boulder battle 3 and was inspired to make a more competition oriented rig. My all red alloy emaxx felt like a tank compared to the light weight clods the phoenix area guys were running.

Anyway...here are two pics of my simple clod.

http://www.rcpics.net/img/49893

http://www.rcpics.net/img/49894

WRMorrison · 02-19-2005, 11:16 PM

Hmmm....reminds me of another rig I've seen. Interesting. Why did you turn one of the axles around backwards?

grover · 02-20-2005, 12:01 AM

The "stick" was definately a source for the one shock on each axle aplication, but you might notice some links missing. I am trying that rear axle arrangement mostly because I built it all on friday hoping to crawl with you all sat. I had a gd600 on that axle and to fit it I spun the axle around to get it away from the shock mount. With the gd600 the axle was geared way to low, so off it came, and as you know the rain came so we will see how it works with some more run time.

grover · 02-20-2005, 08:47 AM

http://www.rcpics.net/img/49916

http://www.rcpics.net/img/49918

and one for the wife
http://www.rcpics.net/img/49919

CustomCrawler · 02-20-2005, 09:51 AM

Is it just me, or is your body mounted to each axle?

grover · 02-20-2005, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CustomCrawler

Is it just me, or is your body mounted to each axle?

The front will be centered off the small aloy clamp that clamps the fiberglass rod towards the back side of the front axle, But yes the rear is mounted to the axle.

kevinlongisland · 02-20-2005, 07:22 PM

grover, cool rig. i think you may have some durability issues with it, but you never know until you try. hope to see you out on the rocks next saturday.

grover · 02-20-2005, 07:41 PM

Thanks. I agree the fiberglass is real strong, but it is going to get chewed up on the rocks and wont last to long. I may even need to use a new glass rod for each comp. Any thing else, I really value your input?

kevinlongisland · 02-20-2005, 07:51 PM

if i'm correct, you removed some of the axle tube braces. also, without links, you put more stress on the axle tubes. so i think you may break some axle tubes, but, they may be stronger than i think and stand up to the stress. so i'd like to see how it does as is. we'll see next saturday.

team-nyke · 02-22-2005, 05:49 PM

hey how do those kongs work on the clod i really want to run kongs but so many people seem to have problems that im not sure
thanks brad

grover · 02-22-2005, 10:10 PM

I just put this clod together friday, and only have 3 packs though it. I like the kongs CUT much better than stock, because they are soooo much lighter and they seem to have a more appropriate contact patch. I also can not imagine fitting stock kongs on a clod.

I am using them more because thats what I had in the garage than anything.

If they stay I will grove them and hopefully soften the tread (simple green?) the sidewalls are already plenty soft.

Gearing may be anouther catch. I have tried gd600 with 12 tooth pinion and found the that it was to low and the 9 tooths are higher than I am accustomed to on my all aloy emaxx (wich is where the kongs came off of).

sorry I dont have the clear cut formula to run kongs well, I am just to new to the clod scene.

grover · 02-25-2005, 09:29 PM

http://www.rcpics.net/img/50277

grover · 02-26-2005, 06:20 PM

http://www.rcpics.net/img/50319

http://www.rcpics.net/img/50321

http://www.rcpics.net/img/50322

Russell · 02-27-2005, 02:05 AM

Looks great Grover .
That last shot really shows the minimal axle steer that a truck designed around a stick really has.
Maybe next time you could make a truck big enough to carry your boy aswell..LOL

grover · 02-27-2005, 02:14 PM

Yea having no axle steer is great but I had a chance to drive the "real" stick made by the crawler store saturday and I was totaly blown away buy its superiority. Kevins chassis seems to drive itself! He does use links on the side unlike my truck and may have almost no axle stear, but those links keep his axles pointed in the correct direction under hard loads much better than mine. I am now of the opinion that his set up is superior, when nearly vertical his truck holds the line and mine has just a bit of flex which sometimes turns it to the side with more traction.

grover · 03-01-2005, 11:05 PM

I am on a plastic weld kick.

First to go was a bolt on the rear axle that was out past the motor.
Then the two bolt locations under the front portion of the rear axle.
Then the alloy lower shock mounts were replace with plastic welded units.

here are two pics

http://www.rcpics.net/img/50591

http://www.rcpics.net/img/50592

I am looking to build some wheels to help get rid of the excesive sidewall flex on the Kongs. If anyone has a killer Idea/material LMK.

kevinlongisland · 03-01-2005, 11:42 PM

dirk is the tire man. especially when i comes to kongs. get ahold of him.

grover · 03-20-2005, 04:06 PM

I am trying something alittle different. My last chassis worked out ok but I was wondering how much of what I liked had more to do with the small amount of chassis and how much had to do with the suspension. So I cut off my plastic welded stick or backbone mount and bolted on an alloy rod with flex only at the front axle. Last time my fiberglass chassis had alot of travel and it reminded me of my 1:1 experience(to much travel puts you on your lid or lets tires fall to deeply into hole and undercuts as often as it helps). So now its time to see what a sub 8 pound(with 11.1 lipo installed) low flex chassis will do.

fiberglass chassis
http://www.rcpics.net/img/50322

Wheels up stiff alloy chassis
http://www.rcpics.net/img/52043

mike · 03-20-2005, 08:35 PM

so the rear is mounted solid and only the front articulates? :?

grover · 03-20-2005, 10:07 PM

because the rod connets to both axles it still articulates front and rear but the rod only follow the movement of the rear axle. Usually this would be a problem because people mount batteries, and electronics on the chassis. As you can see it is totally benine to have the rod pivot with the articulation of the rear axle and not have the added complexity of makeing four pivots instead of the stiffer and simpler two, just on the front axle.

02-19-2005, 10:40 PM	#1
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	"simple" clod based rig Spent some time watching the PARC boulder battle 3 and was inspired to make a more competition oriented rig. My all red alloy emaxx felt like a tank compared to the light weight clods the phoenix area guys were running. Anyway...here are two pics of my simple clod. http://www.rcpics.net/img/49893 http://www.rcpics.net/img/49894 Last edited by grover; 02-19-2005 at 11:10 PM.

02-20-2005, 12:01 AM	#3
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	The "stick" was definately a source for the one shock on each axle aplication, but you might notice some links missing. I am trying that rear axle arrangement mostly because I built it all on friday hoping to crawl with you all sat. I had a gd600 on that axle and to fit it I spun the axle around to get it away from the shock mount. With the gd600 the axle was geared way to low, so off it came, and as you know the rain came so we will see how it works with some more run time. Last edited by grover; 02-20-2005 at 07:08 AM.

02-25-2005, 09:29 PM	#12
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	started cutting kongs today http://www.rcpics.net/img/50277

02-26-2005, 06:20 PM	#13
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	family crawl/hike at usery mountain http://www.rcpics.net/img/50319 http://www.rcpics.net/img/50321 http://www.rcpics.net/img/50322

03-20-2005, 04:06 PM	#18
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	wheels up crawlin? I am trying something alittle different. My last chassis worked out ok but I was wondering how much of what I liked had more to do with the small amount of chassis and how much had to do with the suspension. So I cut off my plastic welded stick or backbone mount and bolted on an alloy rod with flex only at the front axle. Last time my fiberglass chassis had alot of travel and it reminded me of my 1:1 experience(to much travel puts you on your lid or lets tires fall to deeply into hole and undercuts as often as it helps). So now its time to see what a sub 8 pound(with 11.1 lipo installed) low flex chassis will do. fiberglass chassis http://www.rcpics.net/img/50322 Wheels up stiff alloy chassis http://www.rcpics.net/img/52043

02-19-2005, 11:16 PM	#2
WRMorrison Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Land of the Free, because of the Brave Posts: 891	Hmmm....reminds me of another rig I've seen. Interesting. Why did you turn one of the axles around backwards?

02-20-2005, 08:47 AM	#4
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	http://www.rcpics.net/img/49916 http://www.rcpics.net/img/49918 and one for the wife http://www.rcpics.net/img/49919

02-20-2005, 09:51 AM	#5
CustomCrawler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SW, Connecticut Posts: 685	Is it just me, or is your body mounted to each axle?

02-20-2005, 07:22 PM	#7
kevinlongisland The Wheels Keep Turning Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 2,831	grover, cool rig. i think you may have some durability issues with it, but you never know until you try. hope to see you out on the rocks next saturday.

02-20-2005, 07:41 PM	#8
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	Thanks. I agree the fiberglass is real strong, but it is going to get chewed up on the rocks and wont last to long. I may even need to use a new glass rod for each comp. Any thing else, I really value your input?

02-20-2005, 07:51 PM	#9
kevinlongisland The Wheels Keep Turning Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 2,831	if i'm correct, you removed some of the axle tube braces. also, without links, you put more stress on the axle tubes. so i think you may break some axle tubes, but, they may be stronger than i think and stand up to the stress. so i'd like to see how it does as is. we'll see next saturday.

02-22-2005, 05:49 PM	#10
team-nyke Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Lowell Michigan Posts: 93	hey how do those kongs work on the clod i really want to run kongs but so many people seem to have problems that im not sure thanks brad

02-22-2005, 10:10 PM	#11
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	I just put this clod together friday, and only have 3 packs though it. I like the kongs CUT much better than stock, because they are soooo much lighter and they seem to have a more appropriate contact patch. I also can not imagine fitting stock kongs on a clod. I am using them more because thats what I had in the garage than anything. If they stay I will grove them and hopefully soften the tread (simple green?) the sidewalls are already plenty soft. Gearing may be anouther catch. I have tried gd600 with 12 tooth pinion and found the that it was to low and the 9 tooths are higher than I am accustomed to on my all aloy emaxx (wich is where the kongs came off of). sorry I dont have the clear cut formula to run kongs well, I am just to new to the clod scene.

02-27-2005, 02:05 AM	#14
Russell Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 75	Looks great Grover . That last shot really shows the minimal axle steer that a truck designed around a stick really has. Maybe next time you could make a truck big enough to carry your boy aswell..LOL

02-27-2005, 02:14 PM	#15
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	Yea having no axle steer is great but I had a chance to drive the "real" stick made by the crawler store saturday and I was totaly blown away buy its superiority. Kevins chassis seems to drive itself! He does use links on the side unlike my truck and may have almost no axle stear, but those links keep his axles pointed in the correct direction under hard loads much better than mine. I am now of the opinion that his set up is superior, when nearly vertical his truck holds the line and mine has just a bit of flex which sometimes turns it to the side with more traction.

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03-01-2005, 11:05 PM	#16
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	I am on a plastic weld kick. First to go was a bolt on the rear axle that was out past the motor. Then the two bolt locations under the front portion of the rear axle. Then the alloy lower shock mounts were replace with plastic welded units. here are two pics http://www.rcpics.net/img/50591 http://www.rcpics.net/img/50592 I am looking to build some wheels to help get rid of the excesive sidewall flex on the Kongs. If anyone has a killer Idea/material LMK.

03-01-2005, 11:42 PM	#17
kevinlongisland The Wheels Keep Turning Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 2,831	dirk is the tire man. especially when i comes to kongs. get ahold of him.

03-20-2005, 08:35 PM	#19
mike RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Redding, CA Posts: 1,288	so the rear is mounted solid and only the front articulates? :?

03-20-2005, 10:07 PM	#20
grover Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tumwater Posts: 910	because the rod connets to both axles it still articulates front and rear but the rod only follow the movement of the rear axle. Usually this would be a problem because people mount batteries, and electronics on the chassis. As you can see it is totally benine to have the rod pivot with the articulation of the rear axle and not have the added complexity of makeing four pivots instead of the stiffer and simpler two, just on the front axle.

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