RCCrawler Forums

ETOWNE · 04-05-2007, 07:19 PM

http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/rttowne/6cd0epCthiGJPnui6-hKjk0fAkhtR7SLBu0zv4xQp5Fd3Ig=/large/O.k. This is what I'm working with.The chassis is an early Extreme Racing chassis,I was told.If you can identify it differently,let me know.The axle housings are sitting in oven cleaner right now,trying to get green paint off of them.I used Shoe Goo to lock the diffs.I think it will work for now.I have on order 2 Integy 65x1 lathe motors.I have a NOVAK Super Duty XL speedo.Plan on using 2 2s lipos.I have on order the new AXIAL 2.2 Clod Beadlocks with,have already,PROLINE MOABs.I bought a JR RACING Z650M steering servo and plan on putting one on back in future.

ETOWNE · 04-05-2007, 07:23 PM

Sorry,need to figure out how to get the pictures in post.

rcracer · 04-05-2007, 08:26 PM

Chassis looks good but I would ditch the cantilever design and go with a direct shock mount from the chassis to the upper links.

What size pinion are you planning?

you have a good platform there, good esc, motors and tires combo.

Keep us posted

ETOWNE · 04-05-2007, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcracer

Chassis looks good but I would ditch the cantilever design and go with a direct shock mount from the chassis to the upper links.

What size pinion are you planning?

you have a good platform there, good esc, motors and tires combo.

Keep us posted

I was just looking at other chassis's on other builds.I thought the same thing about the cantilever.Looks cool.That's it.I quess for pinions, I'll stay with the stockers.Besides the cantilever,The only thing I'm still leary of is how wide the Axiol Beadlocks will be.

ETOWNE · 04-07-2007, 04:16 PM

Figured out why the axles were painted.Tha axle tubes were broke and glued back together.

ETOWNE · 04-07-2007, 10:17 PM

Just added a bunch more pictures.Someone let me know if the linkages are in thr right area.I still have to pull cantilevers off.I have a bunch of associated T4 shock bodies and different size shafts,try to make working shocks out of that.http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/rt...ppv4xQp5Fd3Ig=

rcracer · 04-07-2007, 10:43 PM

looks good, your upper and lower links are parrallel so that's goo. shorten your lower links to level out the gearcase. also, mount your lower links inside your chassis so your tires don't rub and full turn.

ETOWNE · 04-09-2007, 05:10 AM

Going to get some aluminum plate today.Need to make mounts for lower links and shocks.Also need to make upper link mount.Tried using steel brake line.Took a 1/4 inch piece and mounteed it sideways on top of 1 inch piece with JB WELD.Didn't work.3/8 line slides right down in the steering bellcrank hole.Anyways,try some aluminum tonight,that should do the trick.

rcracer · 04-09-2007, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ETOWNE

Going to get some aluminum plate today.Need to make mounts for lower links and shocks.Also need to make upper link mount.Tried using steel brake line.Took a 1/4 inch piece and mounteed it sideways on top of 1 inch piece with JB WELD.Didn't work.3/8 line slides right down in the steering bellcrank hole.Anyways,try some aluminum tonight,that should do the trick.

I think your link mounts are good, I would just move your lower links from the outside of the chassis plate to the inside.

Team Aluminum · 04-09-2007, 09:13 AM

if your going for a 2.2 rig and your running cvd,s you might wont to make sure that the wheels have the offset as deep as it can be to make the 12 1/2 width, the only wheels that i found that will word is the stampede i think you need to use the rear wheels as thay set deep enough to just make the right width. if your useing stock axels you should be ok as long as the of set is right. as far as the gearing if your going for a crawler you will need to use a 8 to a 9 pinon gear and in the 2.2 class you can not use rear stearing you will need to set up a dig stear for the rear
Good luck

ETOWNE · 04-09-2007, 12:40 PM

I need to mount them at the axle differently.I read the lower you mount them under the centerline ,the more bite you get.I believe this,1 to 1 drag cars are the same way.PLus I want to beef up the C-blocks.ALso talked to LHS today,horizen told him to tell me to order new axial wheels online.They must have forgot how they got started.Looks like I will be making wheels.

rcracer · 04-09-2007, 04:11 PM

you want the lower links as high as possible so they don't get hung up. lowering them might make sense in drag racing with 2wd but not so much with a rock crawler and a 4 link. check out the NN chassis at the crawler store, it's a very nice setup.

also, the more narrow your chassis is the better, mine is just wide enough to fit a 6 cell on the belly.

ETOWNE · 04-10-2007, 08:27 PM

Ok,I made brackets for links last nite.Then,came home and looked at post and other chassis's.Tonite switched everything back around.I also shortened the lower links by 3/16.It stood up the axles more but,I think I can trim another1/8 to 3/16 and be good with it.I measured the GC ,looks like 4+ inches at center.This made roughly 12 inches of WB.I need to know how long of shocks to use? I think the T4 shocks are 4 inches.Also,should I mount the shocks using the same bolts that I used for lower links?
Went to LHS today picked up electric Rustler rear wheels.I think I can chuck them up on my tire lathe to do the chop.Think I'm just gonna glue these tires.I'm still waiting on motors.Hopefully,they show up soon.

ETOWNE · 04-10-2007, 08:57 PM

I know this is the CLOD thread but I think it fits.A buddy of mine has a PTI Goliath.I kinda stole it last nite,not really.Anyways,couldn't wait to come home today and charge the battery.He had a 4cell pack in it with a stock motor.The thing had no grunt.Came inside and tried to get my Lipo in it.Wasn't gonna happen so,I looked at my 18t.The battery fit.Back outside,the truck was way more fun to drive.Got the pepperoni I was hoping for.The truck was fun.I got about 15 minutes w/ a 2/3a 6-cell pack.Now I can't wait to get big truck done.lol

rcracer · 04-10-2007, 10:00 PM

those shocks should work when mounting them on the lower links as you described. if you find they are just a tad short that's ok, my 2.2 only has 3.5 clearance under the belly.

ETOWNE · 04-11-2007, 04:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcracer

those shocks should work when mounting them on the lower links as you described. if you find they are just a tad short that's ok, my 2.2 only has 3.5 clearance under the belly.

Thanks,I will more than likely get those done tonight.I want to use those because I have just about an endless supply.

ETOWNE · 04-11-2007, 08:16 PM

I added some new pics tonight.

TwistedMetal · 04-11-2007, 10:44 PM

Should be cool when you get it done.

ETOWNE · 04-12-2007, 08:40 PM

Narrowed wheels today.I used electric Rustler rear wheels.First I removed the outside bead.Then,ground the edges and slid it over the rim.I measured outside bead to bead and used 1 and 3/16 '' . I slid them around and I liked where they ended up.

ETOWNE · 04-15-2007, 03:47 PM

http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/rt...5jv4xQp5Fd3Ig=

Pictures of this weekeend.
Ok guys I just went outside and played with my first crawler.Alittle different from race stadium trucks.I played around foe 20-25 minutes before I had a nut come off of a bolt on the steering linkage.Not bad.Now,I have battery charging to see how much run time I get.

04-05-2007, 07:19 PM	#1
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	My First Clod Build http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/rttowne/6cd0epCthiGJPnui6-hKjk0fAkhtR7SLBu0zv4xQp5Fd3Ig=/large/O.k. This is what I'm working with.The chassis is an early Extreme Racing chassis,I was told.If you can identify it differently,let me know.The axle housings are sitting in oven cleaner right now,trying to get green paint off of them.I used Shoe Goo to lock the diffs.I think it will work for now.I have on order 2 Integy 65x1 lathe motors.I have a NOVAK Super Duty XL speedo.Plan on using 2 2s lipos.I have on order the new AXIAL 2.2 Clod Beadlocks with,have already,PROLINE MOABs.I bought a JR RACING Z650M steering servo and plan on putting one on back in future. Last edited by ETOWNE; 04-05-2007 at 07:30 PM.

04-07-2007, 10:43 PM	#7
rcracer Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 567	looks good, your upper and lower links are parrallel so that's goo. shorten your lower links to level out the gearcase. also, mount your lower links inside your chassis so your tires don't rub and full turn. Last edited by rcracer; 04-09-2007 at 06:30 AM.

04-09-2007, 04:11 PM	#12
rcracer Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 567	you want the lower links as high as possible so they don't get hung up. lowering them might make sense in drag racing with 2wd but not so much with a rock crawler and a 4 link. check out the NN chassis at the crawler store, it's a very nice setup. also, the more narrow your chassis is the better, mine is just wide enough to fit a 6 cell on the belly. Last edited by rcracer; 04-09-2007 at 05:12 PM.

04-10-2007, 08:27 PM	#13
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	Ok,I made brackets for links last nite.Then,came home and looked at post and other chassis's.Tonite switched everything back around.I also shortened the lower links by 3/16.It stood up the axles more but,I think I can trim another1/8 to 3/16 and be good with it.I measured the GC ,looks like 4+ inches at center.This made roughly 12 inches of WB.I need to know how long of shocks to use? I think the T4 shocks are 4 inches.Also,should I mount the shocks using the same bolts that I used for lower links? Went to LHS today picked up electric Rustler rear wheels.I think I can chuck them up on my tire lathe to do the chop.Think I'm just gonna glue these tires.I'm still waiting on motors.Hopefully,they show up soon. Last edited by ETOWNE; 04-10-2007 at 08:39 PM.

04-15-2007, 03:47 PM	#20
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/rt...5jv4xQp5Fd3Ig=Pictures of this weekeend. Ok guys I just went outside and played with my first crawler.Alittle different from race stadium trucks.I played around foe 20-25 minutes before I had a nut come off of a bolt on the steering linkage.Not bad.Now,I have battery charging to see how much run time I get.

04-05-2007, 07:23 PM	#2
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	Sorry,need to figure out how to get the pictures in post.

04-05-2007, 08:26 PM	#3
rcracer Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 567	Chassis looks good but I would ditch the cantilever design and go with a direct shock mount from the chassis to the upper links. What size pinion are you planning? you have a good platform there, good esc, motors and tires combo. Keep us posted

04-07-2007, 04:16 PM	#5
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	Figured out why the axles were painted.Tha axle tubes were broke and glued back together.

04-07-2007, 10:17 PM	#6
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	Just added a bunch more pictures.Someone let me know if the linkages are in thr right area.I still have to pull cantilevers off.I have a bunch of associated T4 shock bodies and different size shafts,try to make working shocks out of that.http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/rt...ppv4xQp5Fd3Ig=

04-09-2007, 05:10 AM	#8
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	Going to get some aluminum plate today.Need to make mounts for lower links and shocks.Also need to make upper link mount.Tried using steel brake line.Took a 1/4 inch piece and mounteed it sideways on top of 1 inch piece with JB WELD.Didn't work.3/8 line slides right down in the steering bellcrank hole.Anyways,try some aluminum tonight,that should do the trick.

04-09-2007, 09:13 AM	#10
Team Aluminum Newbie Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: blue springs Posts: 25	if your going for a 2.2 rig and your running cvd,s you might wont to make sure that the wheels have the offset as deep as it can be to make the 12 1/2 width, the only wheels that i found that will word is the stampede i think you need to use the rear wheels as thay set deep enough to just make the right width. if your useing stock axels you should be ok as long as the of set is right. as far as the gearing if your going for a crawler you will need to use a 8 to a 9 pinon gear and in the 2.2 class you can not use rear stearing you will need to set up a dig stear for the rear Good luck

04-09-2007, 12:40 PM	#11
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	I need to mount them at the axle differently.I read the lower you mount them under the centerline ,the more bite you get.I believe this,1 to 1 drag cars are the same way.PLus I want to beef up the C-blocks.ALso talked to LHS today,horizen told him to tell me to order new axial wheels online.They must have forgot how they got started.Looks like I will be making wheels.

04-10-2007, 08:57 PM	#14
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	I know this is the CLOD thread but I think it fits.A buddy of mine has a PTI Goliath.I kinda stole it last nite,not really.Anyways,couldn't wait to come home today and charge the battery.He had a 4cell pack in it with a stock motor.The thing had no grunt.Came inside and tried to get my Lipo in it.Wasn't gonna happen so,I looked at my 18t.The battery fit.Back outside,the truck was way more fun to drive.Got the pepperoni I was hoping for.The truck was fun.I got about 15 minutes w/ a 2/3a 6-cell pack.Now I can't wait to get big truck done.lol

04-10-2007, 10:00 PM	#15
rcracer Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 567	those shocks should work when mounting them on the lower links as you described. if you find they are just a tad short that's ok, my 2.2 only has 3.5 clearance under the belly.

04-11-2007, 08:16 PM	#17
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	I added some new pics tonight.

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04-11-2007, 10:44 PM	#18
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	Should be cool when you get it done.

04-12-2007, 08:40 PM	#19
ETOWNE Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: ELKHART Posts: 32	Narrowed wheels today.I used electric Rustler rear wheels.First I removed the outside bead.Then,ground the edges and slid it over the rim.I measured outside bead to bead and used 1 and 3/16 '' . I slid them around and I liked where they ended up.

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