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Old 06-18-2007, 03:16 AM   #1
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Default Mean Green Crawling Machine



Going in for a rebuild, have to get it some what nationals ready.

Installing New:
  • Moab XL's with new oversize wheels
  • 6000Mah C NiMH cells
  • Full up redesign on the chassis.
  • Dual Brushless
  • New body

More to come...
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Old 06-18-2007, 03:26 AM   #2
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Sweet... There seems to be many rebuilds going on... Lets see more.
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run2jeepn View Post
Sweet... There seems to be many rebuilds going on... Lets see more.
Seems to be a few in the works.......lookin' forward to the build picks .
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:48 PM   #4
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Here is a run out of the current problems.


BTA steering works great but binds up do to incorrect linkage.


Here you can see where it binds. Linkage is straight and can't push or pull.


Now, the servo mount is very very tight with the shock and everything.


So with that, I'm going to think up a way to go linkless and mount the shocks on the opposite side to provide room for the servo for better positioning. I really have never been a fan of torsion rigs. They are just to springy, they like to unload and bounce on difficult climbs. I plan to keep the truck a shocked stick.



I like the ground clearance my rocked back rear axle case provides. However, I'm thinking about fliping the axle around as that way I will have the good clearance without the negitive effects of a high mounted motor.


Pic of my current electrical setup.

Running a Nomadio react, with a mamba max and a 10amp regulator. I plan to run a dual Esc Brushless setup with rear dig.

Tires are worn, I have some used XL's kicking around the shop I will be installing.
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:34 PM   #5
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where you get that bta steering from
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:13 PM   #6
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Made it
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:16 PM   #7
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Where is it binding at?
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:33 PM   #8
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Once the knuckle gets jammed in the corner the servo just pushes it in harder rather then turning it back.

Maybe this pic will help.
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:47 PM   #9
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I ordered up some (HDPE) High Density Polyethylene. Anyone from MWRCA knows how much better this stuff is then delrin. Really its not any better it's just a 1/4 the price. I plan to machine up some pivots and ditch the links.

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Old 06-20-2007, 05:18 PM   #10
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Thats what I was thinking. Just wasn't for sure...Have you figured a fix for it yet? May instead of linking to the bottom link. Go to the knuckle...Not sure if that would change anything or not.
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:46 PM   #11
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All I know is I have to move the servo closer to the motor(not possible). Get a longer horn, and live with reduced torque. Or once I go link less remake the mounts and move the servo closer to the tire and mount to the drag link.
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:48 PM   #12
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Being....Linkless is great...
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:57 AM   #13
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Made some progress..


Took forever to make this piece but so far it is worth it as it fits perfectly and I didn't screw up to much. I plan to further lighten it, maybe shorten or angle the end. Piece weigh's in at 1.6 ounces currently. Which is the same as the links, rod end and bolt it replaced. I plan to make a slot for the cantilever which will hold the whole deal from sliding out the end. So far the increased room looks good no more tire rub to worry about. A lot more room on the axles to mount everything low.








The HDPE cut like wax, the stuff it very easy to work with. I still like delrin better but this stuff is more slick and slides better plus it's 1/4 the cost. The plastic reminds me of plastic grocery bags as far as feel.

The main idea here is to be able to conquer this obstacle when the truck is done. Despite many close calls no one has ever made it to the top going up the backside.


Last edited by Mnster; 06-21-2007 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:25 AM   #14
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I use HDPE all the time, the chassis on my 2.2 is made of it...



Great stuff to work with, cheap compared to delrin, is a wear material (which means it slides over stuff well), and holds tapped threads well. Only down side is the white stuff isn't UV protected like the black HDPE. Sun light will break it down and turn it to dust.
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:31 AM   #15
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Good point I was thinking paint or something just for that reason. Might as well add the first green part of the chassis
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Old 06-22-2007, 07:54 PM   #16
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BIG wheels came today along with the cells.





plenty of room
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Old 06-22-2007, 08:26 PM   #17
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looks good.I think I need to get to work on my "other" super
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Old 06-24-2007, 03:19 AM   #18
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Well the wheels are not going to work, not near enough offset. I would need at least 3/4 offset wheel adaptors. Very tough to find for 8mm buggy stubs, most I could find was 12mm. So I ordered some black axial beadlocks. Guess I'll return the one set I didn't open to tower and put the other up on ebay. Kind a the wheels I wanted to begin with I guess. I was just hoping I could use these wheels to be different and get that better performance people say big wheels give. Not worth it though, The amount of money I would have to plunk down for the adaptors would have added up to more then the $ required for a set of beadlocks. Not going to use the thorns as everybody does.

I just hope the batteries will clear the rings and I won't have offset issues with these as well. At least I can still buy and fit the original moab 40's they seem to have a much more effective tread. I also like that I can try several foam setups. I might do a few mods, maybe custom rings, better screws ect.
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Old 07-15-2007, 01:14 AM   #19
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Anymore updates?
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Old 07-19-2007, 05:29 PM   #20
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o will you be running both super and 2.2 at the comp?
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