RCCrawler Forums

bonesaw · 08-05-2008, 04:57 PM

Does anyone have info on the best way to upgrade my drive shafts (which keep on failing at both the splines and at the "u-joint" site). I saw the thread on TRAXUS shafts a couple of days ago, is that the best and strongest choice? Also my pig of a CRO1 needs springs which are stiffer than the stiffest option from Tamiiya. Is there a better stiffer option out there that I can use? Any info would help

Thanks

Drake

Gozer · 08-05-2008, 05:06 PM

The Traxxas shaft seem to be the best bang for the buck. There is a company that makes steel shafts but can't think of them right now. Try some of the Losi springs there is a thread on here with all the spring rates for them.

Joat · 08-05-2008, 11:46 PM

Traxxas Jato drive shaft upgrade !!!!!!!
I am not having any problems, rcwd does have some metal ones, but I would rather have a shaft fail then the gearbox.

skid · 08-06-2008, 02:15 PM

Swapped to t-maxx drivelines and a haven't looked back. twisted all the Tamiya ones. t-maxx trans output yokes (5mm)require very little work to bolt on. Had to drill out the 5mm hole a little deeper and file the end to fit closer to the trans and axle housing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joat

I am not having any problems, rcwd does have some metal ones, but I would rather have a shaft fail then the gearbox.

Highly doubt the gearbox will ever fail unless it wears out. Planetary gearsets are extremely strong. Front and rear ring and pinions might be a different story.

MonsterDDT · 08-06-2008, 02:47 PM

Try this if you can afford:

http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.p...roducts_id=822

vtt · 08-07-2008, 07:59 AM

i got rc4wd's shafts and so far ,so good.

they look that they will last forever.

the things i don't like about them are :

1. they are not as smooth as i expected but with some silicon spray the squeaky noise went away and are much smoother.

2. Price .

as said before , if you don't mind the 80$ buy them.

njrockcrawler · 08-07-2008, 03:53 PM

bonesaw........u could try this spring set from AE

copper color

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFUC6&P=M

red color
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFUC5&P=M

i put the red in my rear

.....ooooooh myyyyy!....to counter the torq-twist effect with the rear driveshaft and left the stockers in front. i do
run different shocks with coil-over springs and the chuck'd the canti's all
around.

twisted · 08-07-2008, 11:50 PM

im running stampede shafts with metal yokes.

william g · 08-08-2008, 04:42 PM

I'm running axial because they were in my parts bin, but why not try tamiya highlift shafts, they should be strong enough since the can move that 3spd pig of a truck

tomancik · 08-20-2008, 07:32 AM

Hi!

I broke my rear driveshaft recently, and now I use a E-Savage driveshaft. If You take the one betweeen the slipper-clutch and the front diff, it semms to be a perfect fit (at least for the rear tamiya driveshaft). Just drill the opening to fit for the tamyia-metal thingie to connect the driveshaft, and you are done. You can even use the original hpi-skrew to tighten the driveshaft on the metal tamiya-thingie.
If you take an E-Savage axle-driveshaft, it is a little more work, because you have to shorten/shave the driveshaft on any end to fit perfectly.

The E-Savage driveshafts seem to be pretty beefy to me. However I had no opportunity to test the "new" shaft extensivley.

excuse my missing vocabulary, but english is not my native language.

sincerly
tomancik

Joat · 08-20-2008, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomancik

Hi!

I broke my rear driveshaft recently, and now I use a E-Savage driveshaft. If You take the one betweeen the slipper-clutch and the front diff, it semms to be a perfect fit (at least for the rear tamiya driveshaft). Just drill the opening to fit for the tamyia-metal thingie to connect the driveshaft, and you are done. You can even use the original hpi-skrew to tighten the driveshaft on the metal tamiya-thingie.
If you take an E-Savage axle-driveshaft, it is a little more work, because you have to shorten/shave the driveshaft on any end to fit perfectly.

The E-Savage driveshafts seem to be pretty beefy to me. However I had no opportunity to test the "new" shaft extensivley.

excuse my missing vocabulary, but english is not my native language.

sincerly
tomancik

If you could post links or part numbers so people have a reference to what your doing

RacerTim · 08-20-2008, 03:19 PM

3 racing has aluminum driveshafts coming out, and Integy lists HD driveshafts in stock, but show no picture. My warning lights have gone on to anything from Integy, but my LHS has ordered a set to check out.

JeepinItReal · 08-23-2008, 11:52 AM

i just saw the alu. driveshafts on ebay at rc mart they are cv based shafts and look pretty good. at the moment im using rustler shafts and joints they work rather well and im running a 5000li-po and the brushless goat. they are capable enough to wihstand the mad wattage in my cottage!

tomancik · 08-24-2008, 11:27 PM

hi!

the middle-cardan driveshat of an e-savage should be part "# 82009"
the axle-cardan driveshaft of the e-savage sholud be part "# 82008"

mfg.
tomancik

08-05-2008, 04:57 PM	#1
bonesaw Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Tulsa Posts: 46	springs and driveshafts Does anyone have info on the best way to upgrade my drive shafts (which keep on failing at both the splines and at the "u-joint" site). I saw the thread on TRAXUS shafts a couple of days ago, is that the best and strongest choice? Also my pig of a CRO1 needs springs which are stiffer than the stiffest option from Tamiiya. Is there a better stiffer option out there that I can use? Any info would help Thanks Drake

08-07-2008, 03:53 PM	#7
njrockcrawler Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Jersey Shore BAR's (BIG ASS ROCKS) Posts: 36	bonesaw........u could try this spring set from AE copper color http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFUC6&P=M red color http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFUC5&P=M i put the red in my rear.....ooooooh myyyyy!....to counter the torq-twist effect with the rear driveshaft and left the stockers in front. i do run different shocks with coil-over springs and the chuck'd the canti's all around.

08-05-2008, 05:06 PM	#2
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	The Traxxas shaft seem to be the best bang for the buck. There is a company that makes steel shafts but can't think of them right now. Try some of the Losi springs there is a thread on here with all the spring rates for them.

08-05-2008, 11:46 PM	#3
Joat Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: On the Snap on truck Posts: 736	Traxxas Jato drive shaft upgrade !!!!!!! I am not having any problems, rcwd does have some metal ones, but I would rather have a shaft fail then the gearbox.

08-06-2008, 02:47 PM	#5
MonsterDDT Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2008 Location: Cupertino Posts: 88	Try this if you can afford: http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.p...roducts_id=822

08-07-2008, 07:59 AM	#6
vtt Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Israel Posts: 64	i got rc4wd's shafts and so far ,so good. they look that they will last forever. the things i don't like about them are : 1. they are not as smooth as i expected but with some silicon spray the squeaky noise went away and are much smoother. 2. Price . as said before , if you don't mind the 80$ buy them.

08-07-2008, 11:50 PM	#8
twisted I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2,386	im running stampede shafts with metal yokes.

08-08-2008, 04:42 PM	#9
william g Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: newport Posts: 408	I'm running axial because they were in my parts bin, but why not try tamiya highlift shafts, they should be strong enough since the can move that 3spd pig of a truck

08-20-2008, 07:32 AM	#10
tomancik Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Vienna Posts: 65	Hi! I broke my rear driveshaft recently, and now I use a E-Savage driveshaft. If You take the one betweeen the slipper-clutch and the front diff, it semms to be a perfect fit (at least for the rear tamiya driveshaft). Just drill the opening to fit for the tamyia-metal thingie to connect the driveshaft, and you are done. You can even use the original hpi-skrew to tighten the driveshaft on the metal tamiya-thingie. If you take an E-Savage axle-driveshaft, it is a little more work, because you have to shorten/shave the driveshaft on any end to fit perfectly. The E-Savage driveshafts seem to be pretty beefy to me. However I had no opportunity to test the "new" shaft extensivley. excuse my missing vocabulary, but english is not my native language. sincerly tomancik

08-20-2008, 03:19 PM	#12
RacerTim Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: In the Desert Posts: 4	3 racing has aluminum driveshafts coming out, and Integy lists HD driveshafts in stock, but show no picture. My warning lights have gone on to anything from Integy, but my LHS has ordered a set to check out.

08-23-2008, 11:52 AM	#13
JeepinItReal Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Wintersville Posts: 56	i just saw the alu. driveshafts on ebay at rc mart they are cv based shafts and look pretty good. at the moment im using rustler shafts and joints they work rather well and im running a 5000li-po and the brushless goat. they are capable enough to wihstand the mad wattage in my cottage!

08-24-2008, 11:27 PM	#14
tomancik Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Vienna Posts: 65	hi! the middle-cardan driveshat of an e-savage should be part "# 82009" the axle-cardan driveshaft of the e-savage sholud be part "# 82008" mfg. tomancik

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