Driveshaft

[RichardinNZ]

What uprated driveshafts do you all recommend? Are the standard ones really that bad?

(still looking to buy the CR-01 so haven't checked out the standard ones yet!)

Thanks
Richard

[Thorsteenster]

I'm still building mine but from what I've heard the stock drive shafts don't last very long. You can use Traxxas Stampede shafts or MIP Axial shafts I think people have used.
I was placing an order with Dinball, RCmart.com, and noticed they had Tamiya CVD drive shafts for the CR01 so I ordered a set of those.
In fact, I should have them tomorrow.

[860Crawler]

I've had my CR-01 since last August and I still have yet to go through the original shafts and I use this thing practically everyday on the rocks. I must be lucky.

People have been giving the Tamiya carbon steel shafts and the Junfac steel shafts good feedback. So some day I may invest in one of those two

[MonsterDDT]

I got the 3racing pair. They aren't looking as good as some of the more expensive one (like Junfac). But it serves it's purpose perfectly and it's much cheaper. Unless you care the look, otherwise, it's most bang for the buck.

[mtnhrdgr2]

Originally Posted by EeePee

The fact that they're "not breakable" means something else is going to break, and that means either something inside the transmission, or inside the axles. Both of which will require you to tear a lot of the truck apart to fix it. And it'll probably cost more than a set of new Traxxas shafts.

above quote is from this thread.
drive shafts


As far as shafts go, I went on the side that Eeepee had mentioned before...it is better to break the tranny drive shafts something internal like the axle drive shafts or bevel gear,etc.... If you put strong/metal tranny drive shaft, and are in a bind, you increase the likelihood of breaking internals instead and have to open up an axle or the tranny.

Personally, I agree with that point. I would rather replace a tranny drive shaft than have to have to open something up.

With that said, i did 'upgrade' my tranny drive shafts and yokes to the traxxas ones. Thicker, but still plastic. Havent broken one yet. Theoretically, these will break first before the internal do.

[TrickyNickro]

The drive shafts twist over time, but still work. Plus, the kit comes with extras. Personally, I won't bother getting new drive shafts unless I break all the ones that came with the kit.

[FreshMeat]

I never experienced twisting of my stock tamiya shafts. However, when I upgraded my shocks, the stock shafts were not able to accommodate the extra travel and so I did ultimately upgrade to some Junfac drive shafts.

I would stick with the stock shafts for now - they may work just fine for your rig/driving style.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by mtnhrdgr2

I went on the side that Eeepee had mentioned before...

Smart man!

I have recently broken a plastic Traxxas yoke, so I jumped up to metal yokes, but still use the plastic shafts. I broke it with a 3 cell lipo pushing a 35 turn motor, so there was some power present.

[MonsterDDT]

I kind of disagree.

Say, the amount of force to break any internal parts is 10.
The amount of force to break that stock shaft I will say is around 4.
So, you basically reach that thershold easily and often.

If you now replace a metal shaft and the breaking point of that is 15, for sure the next thing will break is the internal parts. But it will also depend on the power config you have. If you are running 2S or 7.2V, with a high turn motor, I think the chances are slim cos the most power you can output many be around 8. It's not going to break anything.

But if your outpout could reach beyond 10 (with 3S lipo, etc) then, you are right, you better have something outside to break first. But I will say the breaking point (4) of the stock shaft is still too low.

(All the numbers above are my own estimation. So, use your own judgement.)

DT

[Vtown Crawl]

Originally Posted by mtnhrdgr2

above quote is from this thread.
drive shafts


As far as shafts go, I went on the side that Eeepee had mentioned before...it is better to break the tranny drive shafts something internal like the axle drive shafts or bevel gear,etc.... If you put strong/metal tranny drive shaft, and are in a bind, you increase the likelihood of breaking internals instead and have to open up an axle or the tranny.

Personally, I agree with that point. I would rather replace a tranny drive shaft than have to have to open something up.

With that said, i did 'upgrade' my tranny drive shafts and yokes to the traxxas ones. Thicker, but still plastic. Havent broken one yet. Theoretically, these will break first before the internal do.

I've competed and bashed my CR-01 rig before and I can say that the Traxxas set-up works the best. The last thing you want to do is go home early. Metal shaft might look good, but performance and reliability is what you want........

[mtnhrdgr2]

Originally Posted by MonsterDDT

I kind of disagree.

Say, the amount of force to break any internal parts is 10.
The amount of force to break that stock shaft I will say is around 4.
So, you basically reach that thershold easily and often.

If you now replace a metal shaft and the breaking point of that is 15, for sure the next thing will break is the internal parts. But it will also depend on the power config you have. If you are running 2S or 7.2V, with a high turn motor, I think the chances are slim cos the most power you can output many be around 8. It's not going to break anything.

But if your outpout could reach beyond 10 (with 3S lipo, etc) then, you are right, you better have something outside to break first. But I will say the breaking point (4) of the stock shaft is still too low.

(All the numbers above are my own estimation. So, use your own judgement.)

DT

I have snapped two of the stock CR01 shafts before the traxxas upgrade. I have been running 3S lipo with a 10T cobalt puller. I definitely have enough power to break stuff so I'd rather break the traxxas tranny shafts as it is much much easier to replace.

Definitely...to each his/her own. I am just saying what my preference is.

[Dirty 'Yota]

I twisted a stock rear Tamiya shaft within a few weeks of having my CR-01.

I ordered a pair of JunFac shafts and haven't broke any parts since.

[lewy]

I slightly twisted my rear shaft and thought I would get some 3racing ones while I was ordering other parts.

The only issue I have had is the grub screw coming loose and losing drive. A retighten fixes it up.

Until then I have fun in 2wd

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xOUKdGEeKs

[HighCurrent]

Originally Posted by MonsterDDT

I kind of disagree.

Say, the amount of force to break any internal parts is 10.
The amount of force to break that stock shaft I will say is around 4.
So, you basically reach that thershold easily and often.

If you now replace a metal shaft and the breaking point of that is 15, for sure the next thing will break is the internal parts. But it will also depend on the power config you have. If you are running 2S or 7.2V, with a high turn motor, I think the chances are slim cos the most power you can output many be around 8. It's not going to break anything.

But if your outpout could reach beyond 10 (with 3S lipo, etc) then, you are right, you better have something outside to break first. But I will say the breaking point (4) of the stock shaft is still too low.

(All the numbers above are my own estimation. So, use your own judgement.)

DT

This is well said, my son has broken 2 stock shafts and 1 bevel gear all with the stock motor and 101bk speed control. I up graded my CR01 with Jun Fac shafts and i have broken the universal joint twice same stock motor and 101bk speed control. Your driving style will affect how much and how often you break the drive shafts.
My son is 8 btw, heavy on the throttle.
As for myself I think the first time the U joint broke it came loose, the second break was due to the worn out joint from being loose. Have ordered new joints from Jun Fac. Note" they sell just the U joints" this tells me that, thats the weakest point in their drive shafts. Hope this helps you.

[krapulax]

When I put my kit together I had the unpleasant surprise to find that one of the uni joints had a shorter pin on one side so the driveshaft would pop out quite easily on that side. The plastic shafts also twisted badly so I was quite unimpressed with the quality. I replaced the plastic shafts with steel ones from Tamiya when they became available. Quality wise, the steel shafts however are in a different class. If everything on the truck was the same, I have no doubt it would be a much better crawler. It would cost a lot more too.

There is a concern that I might break something else, but that's the way things go. I use a 85 turn motor and a Novak Rooster crawler speedy so I am not going easy on my gears. Then again I would rather break something now when parts are available and plentyful rather than later when the cars are out of production. And if something just doesn't seem up to the task, I would like to know sooner rather than later so I can find my own solution if Tamiya doesn't offer one.

[HDMM]

I went with the Junfac stainless steel shafts, have'nt looked back since.

[The CrAwLL BLACK]

I've had my CR-01 since December and it has been through a few changes.

I put in the 3Racing alloy drive shafts and they have been great.

For all of you worrying about breaking internals, it will no doubt happen at some stage, but so far I have pushed this rig's running gear beyond the normal CR-01 terrain etc and it has held up very well.

They are stronger than you think.

I will have my build thread up later today to show the evolution.

[vipxj]

Ive had modied MIP shafts on my CR01 for 9 months orso,and only striped one small bevel gear in each axle,so its the chance you take i spose with metal shafts.