RCCrawler Forums

rikstr · 05-10-2009, 04:47 PM

Hey guys,

Well its put together and run a few times and I like it!

Its all stock for now, but I want to know what adjustments I can do with the canter links to make it flex better.

Here are some pics from my front yard on the weekend.

rikstr · 05-10-2009, 04:49 PM

Some more

mtnhrdgr2 · 05-10-2009, 05:45 PM

You could move the mounting into different holes. You could use the zip tie trick to get rid of slop. You could remove it completely. You really need to do a search with your question. Eeepee, and JIA's threads are a good start.

I personally have removed the cantis on mine and converted it to a droop set-up. Others, like minicracker have had good success with the cantis. I guess read up and see what you like.

lewy · 05-10-2009, 06:58 PM

I just removed the rear cantilevers on mine and fitted the short barrel springs. It works really good now and has lots more flex in the rear.

I can't remove them from the front or the tyres will rub too much

rikstr · 05-10-2009, 07:21 PM

What about the swaybars?

freelife04239 · 05-11-2009, 08:15 AM

i would take out the sway bars or stablizers in one of your pics i think i see the rear one is in i would remove the rear one frist and leave the front then tell us what you think im still building mine but i have had more than one crawler befor

mtnhrdgr2 · 05-11-2009, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rikstr

What about the swaybars?

I removed both sway bars. Since then I always had a problem with the CR01 leaning too much to the left. I never could figure that one out, and I didnt want to put stiffer springs in the left rear. I was actually about to put the cantis back on, then I decided to try the droop set-up.

Since I've had it on droop, I have had no leaning problems, lowered my COG, and have also close to zeroed out the effects of torque twist...Although I still do get the torque twist effect on 50 to 60 degree incline tests.

1rcmonster · 05-11-2009, 04:27 PM

On mine I left the swaybars in and removed the cantilevers. Then I mounted my shocks from the axle to the chassis. On the rear I raised the upper links at the axle to help with torque twist. I think I have 30wt in my shocks.

rikstr · 05-11-2009, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1rcmonster

On mine I left the swaybars in and removed the cantilevers. Then I mounted my shocks from the axle to the chassis. On the rear I raised the upper links at the axle to help with torque twist. I think I have 30wt in my shocks.

I like this idea, it's like a Currie antirock swaybar for 1:1 TJ's
Have you got any pics of the flex you get now? It is better?

1rcmonster · 05-11-2009, 04:57 PM

I have no pics, but I must say it does work better with this set-up versus stock...

rikstr · 05-11-2009, 05:33 PM

Cool, well I think I will start with removing the rear swaybar first, then will progress from there.

1rc, do you think your shocks are longer or the same length as the stock ones

EeePee · 05-11-2009, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rikstr

Cool, well I think I will start with removing the rear swaybar first, then will progress from there.

If either end were to need a sway bar, it's the back. Leave the back one in, it'll help control the body roll. The back is the end most affected by torque twist.

I have both mine in, the stiffer one in the back, I think. Yeah, cause I have softest springs in the back. Then medium sway in front with medium springs in front.

1rcmonster · 05-11-2009, 07:59 PM

The shocks are just an old set of Associated 4 inch I had laying around...

freelife04239 · 05-11-2009, 10:03 PM

I like to limit the front articulation but leave as much as I can in the rear . The rear sway will limit the rear articulation . Im no expert in rc but if you leave the front sway in that will hlep the tork twist because when one front tire trys to lift the other takes all the weight which in turn will pull the opposite tire back down using the weight of the truck. I could be way wrong but I would think leaving just the rear in would still let the truck torq twist. I would also think that this would hurt you on steep climes because the sway in the front will help you keep both front tires planted on a clime by making it squat. I would think that the sway in the rear is only going to make the rear squat and front tires lift more but I could be wrong like i say im just using what i know from 1/1 scale cars and drag racing

There is nothing wrong with constructive criticism or even corecting me just please use the same respect you would want. So please tell me if you think im wrong or what

lewy · 05-11-2009, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freelife04239

I like to limit the front articulation but leave as much as I can in the rear . The rear sway will limit the rear articulation . Im no expert in rc but if you leave the front sway in that will hlep the tork twist because when one front tire trys to lift the other takes all the weight which in turn will pull the opposite tire back down using the weight of the truck. I could be way wrong but I would think leaving just the rear in would still let the truck torq twist. I would also think that this would hurt you on steep climes because the sway in the front will help you keep both front tires planted on a clime by making it squat. I would think that the sway in the rear is only going to make the rear squat and front tires lift more but I could be wrong like i say im just using what i know from 1/1 scale cars and drag racing

There is nothing wrong with constructive criticism or even corecting me just please use the same respect you would want. So please tell me if you think im wrong or what

Seems to make sense to me. I did a little bit of a drive around the back yard yesterday with my new set up, rear cantis and sway bar removed, and I didn't notice a lot of torque twist. Have not had the chance to try it on any steep climbs yet.

rikstr · 05-12-2009, 04:59 PM

I had a play with it last night

I pulled out the rear sway bar, it stoped the front from flexing but the back was good.

I pulled out the front and rear sway bars, it had great flex but to much torque twist.

I put in the rear swap bar and the torque twist calmed down and the front and rear flex are good

So I have stuck with that until I can take it for a spin.

1rcmonster · 05-12-2009, 05:35 PM

Mount your upper rear links on top of your plate and that will help with torque twist as well. If you can raise them up 2 or 3mm thats even better...

rikstr · 05-13-2009, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freelife04239

I like to limit the front articulation but leave as much as I can in the rear . The rear sway will limit the rear articulation . Im no expert in rc but if you leave the front sway in that will hlep the tork twist because when one front tire trys to lift the other takes all the weight which in turn will pull the opposite tire back down using the weight of the truck. I could be way wrong but I would think leaving just the rear in would still let the truck torq twist. I would also think that this would hurt you on steep climes because the sway in the front will help you keep both front tires planted on a clime by making it squat. I would think that the sway in the rear is only going to make the rear squat and front tires lift more but I could be wrong like i say im just using what i know from 1/1 scale cars and drag racing

There is nothing wrong with constructive criticism or even corecting me just please use the same respect you would want. So please tell me if you think im wrong or what

From what I know about 1:1 and from what I tried to do with my Juggernaut a while ago there needs to be a balance, too much rear with not enough front can be very limiting.I left the leaves in the front, and put a 4 link in the rear, I had coil overs leaning forward from the lower links to the chassis to get more flex from the rear. It was really good and flexing and slow stuff like opposed holes and logs. But when it came to hills it used to torque twist so much the rear wheel used to almost drive under the truck and it would lift a wheel and roll over backwards. This just made the setup to unstable so put it back the way it was.
About a month later a 4WD mag here in OZ made a comp rig through the mag and they were doing a rear suspension setup similar to what I had tried. I said to a mate "it will roll over backwards at the first hill it gets to"
I was right, first comp, first hill, first big roll.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=73ljDXHMRm8

rikstr · 06-28-2009, 10:35 PM

Quick update....

Rear Sway bar stayed in, front one came out, Heaps better.

Tyre weights fitted, heaps better.

I now have lights.

A mate liked mine and went and got one of his own.

Bok · 07-05-2009, 02:39 AM

On my rig I have the Tamiya barrel springs (medium front, soft rear) and the optional sway bars, with the medium bar on the rear and the soft bar up front. Flexes alot better, with just a little more torque twist compared to the stock setup

Don't forget to zip tie your cants to get rid of the slop!

05-10-2009, 04:47 PM	#1
rikstr Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 52	New CR-01 in OZ Hey guys, Well its put together and run a few times and I like it! Its all stock for now, but I want to know what adjustments I can do with the canter links to make it flex better. Here are some pics from my front yard on the weekend.

05-10-2009, 04:49 PM	#2
rikstr Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 52	Some more

05-10-2009, 05:45 PM	#3
mtnhrdgr2 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: San Jose Posts: 250	You could move the mounting into different holes. You could use the zip tie trick to get rid of slop. You could remove it completely. You really need to do a search with your question. Eeepee, and JIA's threads are a good start. I personally have removed the cantis on mine and converted it to a droop set-up. Others, like minicracker have had good success with the cantis. I guess read up and see what you like.

05-10-2009, 06:58 PM	#4
lewy Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 49	I just removed the rear cantilevers on mine and fitted the short barrel springs. It works really good now and has lots more flex in the rear. I can't remove them from the front or the tyres will rub too much

05-10-2009, 07:21 PM	#5
rikstr Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 52	What about the swaybars?

05-11-2009, 08:15 AM	#6
freelife04239 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockland maine Posts: 82	i would take out the sway bars or stablizers in one of your pics i think i see the rear one is in i would remove the rear one frist and leave the front then tell us what you think im still building mine but i have had more than one crawler befor

05-11-2009, 04:27 PM	#8
1rcmonster Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Eveleth Posts: 713	On mine I left the swaybars in and removed the cantilevers. Then I mounted my shocks from the axle to the chassis. On the rear I raised the upper links at the axle to help with torque twist. I think I have 30wt in my shocks.

05-11-2009, 04:57 PM	#10
1rcmonster Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Eveleth Posts: 713	I have no pics, but I must say it does work better with this set-up versus stock...

05-11-2009, 05:33 PM	#11
rikstr Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 52	Cool, well I think I will start with removing the rear swaybar first, then will progress from there. 1rc, do you think your shocks are longer or the same length as the stock ones

05-11-2009, 07:59 PM	#13
1rcmonster Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Eveleth Posts: 713	The shocks are just an old set of Associated 4 inch I had laying around...

05-11-2009, 10:03 PM	#14
freelife04239 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockland maine Posts: 82	I like to limit the front articulation but leave as much as I can in the rear . The rear sway will limit the rear articulation . Im no expert in rc but if you leave the front sway in that will hlep the tork twist because when one front tire trys to lift the other takes all the weight which in turn will pull the opposite tire back down using the weight of the truck. I could be way wrong but I would think leaving just the rear in would still let the truck torq twist. I would also think that this would hurt you on steep climes because the sway in the front will help you keep both front tires planted on a clime by making it squat. I would think that the sway in the rear is only going to make the rear squat and front tires lift more but I could be wrong like i say im just using what i know from 1/1 scale cars and drag racing There is nothing wrong with constructive criticism or even corecting me just please use the same respect you would want. So please tell me if you think im wrong or what

Sponsored Links

05-12-2009, 04:59 PM	#16
rikstr Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 52	I had a play with it last night I pulled out the rear sway bar, it stoped the front from flexing but the back was good. I pulled out the front and rear sway bars, it had great flex but to much torque twist. I put in the rear swap bar and the torque twist calmed down and the front and rear flex are good So I have stuck with that until I can take it for a spin.

05-12-2009, 05:35 PM	#17
1rcmonster Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Eveleth Posts: 713	Mount your upper rear links on top of your plate and that will help with torque twist as well. If you can raise them up 2 or 3mm thats even better...

06-28-2009, 10:35 PM	#19
rikstr Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 52	Quick update.... Rear Sway bar stayed in, front one came out, Heaps better. Tyre weights fitted, heaps better. I now have lights. A mate liked mine and went and got one of his own.

07-05-2009, 02:39 AM	#20
Bok Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Philippines Posts: 55	On my rig I have the Tamiya barrel springs (medium front, soft rear) and the optional sway bars, with the medium bar on the rear and the soft bar up front. Flexes alot better, with just a little more torque twist compared to the stock setup Don't forget to zip tie your cants to get rid of the slop!

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