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06-18-2005, 10:15 PM
| #1 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,386
|  pti cralwers ?
any pti crawlers out there ? im in the midsts of building mine and was wondering if theres anyone here that is further then myself. besides missing parts in the kit which is holding me back, im liking it so far.
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06-19-2005, 05:42 AM
| #2 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Bethlehem, GA
Posts: 583
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Shagrat69 has one over on CT http://www.clodtalk.com/viewtopic.ph...568&highlight= |
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06-20-2005, 02:38 AM
| #3 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 2,048
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Good to see somebody here getting some talk started about this truck. The one18th forums seem to be a little stagnant. I've seen your posts there about missing parts. You are not alone, as I'm sure you know. I was missing parts on mine as well, but I got lucky. I was only missing the ball studs for the front steering, which I didn't need anyway, since I immediately put a drag-link setup on mine. Unfortunately, that's as far as I've gotten. The whole truck is built, but it's stock except for a 19 turn motor and the steering. I'm researching CVDs to do a stretch, if it's possible, otherwise it's sliders and maybe a pede tranny.. And until I have more time, it's gonna stay stock. But it's been fun so far! Took it out bashing at some mud flats. Broke the plate where the front body posts mount  |
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06-20-2005, 09:46 AM
| #4 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Weatherford
Posts: 25
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You can use any MIP CVD bone made for an Associated to attach to the diffs, so there are a few different lengths available . I would think the rear CVD bone for a RC10 GT or T3 would be perfect as they are a little longer than the B3 bones currently used . Maybe you can even use a MIP bone for the Losi XXX-NT since the ball socket portion is the same diameter and depth and they are probably at least 1.5" longer. My buddy has one that I ordered for him and will be stretching his very soon to 12", so I'll post what bones we use on it for you guys ! Rick |
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06-20-2005, 10:08 AM
| #5 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Central NY
Posts: 387
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I got mine 'done'. Still gotta polish up the steering (PIC) but it works pretty good as-is. The rear has a TC3 locker and the foams are cut. I used some Duratrax body posts and cut them shorter than the stock ones. The battery is running up front; at some point I'll figure out how to mount a standard stick pack without it looking stupid. ATM it's running 84/15 for 14:1 at ~15.5mph; could go lower without using a reduction but it works ok for a basher/crawler, so I'll leave it like that for now.  |
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06-20-2005, 11:44 AM
| #6 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 250
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Here's some cool pics of some other PTI MMT's... not my truck, just cool pics anyways... http://www.one18th.com/forums/attach...achmentid=9990 They seem ok i guess...  |
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06-20-2005, 12:21 PM
| #7 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 2,048
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Mazlem, Nice truck. I like how you cut the Swamp Dawgs. Although it doesn't seem so in the photo, I would think that mounting the servo on top of the axle would limit articulation with the standard wheelbase? How'd you mount the battery in the front? Did you flip the tranny around? I was thinking about doing that myself, although I think the motor and battery weigh about the same. Ronin... thanks for the info! I was thinking the same thing since they used Associated diffs. But I figured the CVDs in the kit were from an RC10GT or something. Guess I'll have to make a trip to the hobby shop... |
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06-20-2005, 12:59 PM
| #8 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Central NY
Posts: 387
| Quote:
To get the battery in front I did flip the tranny around. I'm using a TLT battery and the motor/battery do weigh the same. The only reason I did that was for when/if I get a standard stick pack to fit. | |
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06-21-2005, 12:59 PM
| #9 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 2,048
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I built a TLT-style triangular pack out of 3000mah race cells that Stormer Hobbies had on sale. Unfortunately, the sub-c cells are just a hair too long once assembled, so my whole plan of having one row of cells hang below the chassis rails (and lowering the CG) went out the window until I move that rear crossmember. Which opens a whole new can of worms.
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06-22-2005, 11:19 PM
| #10 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,386
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well i just got her done. iam missing the batter hold down strap and that makes alot i was missing from this kit.oh well pti has been good about ,still no excuse. i plan on tightening the diffs fully for now till i get the ambition ot buy the tc3 spools. i also have my eye on the bronco toy at walmart of jesse james cralwer they built on monster garage. i think it might fit the length. man i dont want to tare these axle back apart to tighten the diffs. |
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06-23-2005, 02:17 PM
| #11 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 2,048
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I may be mis-reading your post, but I removed the little diff screw cover that goes in the outdrive in order to alleviate some binding problems. So, as long as you have an allen driver long enough, all you have to do is remove the right (or is it left?) knuckle. Might even be able to adjust it with the cover thing still in place. I can't believe how easy those diffs slip. Although I think mine might not be adjusted correctly... |
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06-24-2005, 08:21 PM
| #12 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,386
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will the dog bone pull out ? i think the tubes are to narrow to pull the bone out.
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