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07-14-2005, 12:55 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 245
| ORCRC scale-ish Bulu2 FJ40 - body off pics added
Between having limited free time and being a perfectionist, it takes me forever to complete a project. I think I started this project back in January, and it is now nearly complete (still need to shave the bottom of the axles and mount the electronics more permanently). Tonight was my first real drive with it and WOW is it fun! Everyone told me how fun a TLT crawler can be, and now I finally know the feeling for myself. Many thanks to those that helped with my questions and provided inspiration along the way. Some stats: - Bulu2 chassis - TLT axles, locked with lock snot - Stampede transmission - 55T motor - Super Rooster ESC - CheapBatteryPacks.com 6 cell GP1100 battery - 645MG steering servo - Associated 1.02 shocks with .71 shafts - Tamiya Stadium Blitzer rear wheels, narrowed - HPI Geolandar tires On to the pics... The color is metallic blue. It looks a bit purple in the pictures, but make no mistake! -jeff Last edited by schlabinski; 10-22-2009 at 09:58 PM. |
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07-14-2005, 01:15 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: KENNEWICK, WA
Posts: 2,513
| L KS Good!
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07-14-2005, 01:20 PM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: and OR. if . . . . Gone Fishin :p :b :p
Posts: 501
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Nice Rig! Tight Build too, looks like you spared no Expense. That's what I like to see! |
07-14-2005, 01:23 PM | #4 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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Looks awesome !!! But now I cant paint my LC that color... damn lol
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07-14-2005, 01:24 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Orleans
Posts: 265
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that is a nice rig i like that color
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07-14-2005, 01:31 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Thats a Good question
Posts: 552
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looks killer, have any naked pics?
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07-14-2005, 01:50 PM | #7 |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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Damn schlabinski, haven't seen you around for a while. Nice job on the Purple People Eaters rig! Gotta love the FJ40 body. The rig looks great! I can't wait to get a couple of TLT's going for myself. |
07-14-2005, 05:32 PM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,129
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Looks great. Good choice in everything. Tires/wheels/body/paint. Looks real sharp.
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07-14-2005, 05:56 PM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Mt.View CA
Posts: 940
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I dig it,what shocks are you using?.
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07-14-2005, 06:55 PM | #10 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
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07-14-2005, 07:23 PM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: denville , new jersey
Posts: 38
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your truck looks awsome i really cant wait to get mine done. i was wondering what you opinion was on those cheapbatterypacks.com 3300 packs is ? are they any good? good run time? thanks
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07-14-2005, 09:47 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 245
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Wow, thanks for the warm reception! Badger, I have been around but I usually don't have much to say (especially since it takes me 6 months to build a frickin truck). Hey, isn't there an Aussie truck named the Purple People Eater? Thank goodness that name is taken! I don't have any body off pictures available right now. I plan on doing a little more of a write-up on the build process, so I'll be sure to snap many more pictures then. No one asked, but I can share some info with you on my servo mount and upper link mounts. Inspiration for this setup came from a couple of the other ORCRC guys that set up their TLTs this way. The one on the left in this picture is from Inet and I ended up using it in the rear. The one on the right I made using the Inet piece as a template. The differences are subtle, but most importantly, it is about 3mm longer so that I would have room for the upper links behind the servo. You see I only have one hole for the upper link at this point, but I end up drilling two holes later on for a traditional four link. Notice the 3mm threaded rod so that I can attach the servo plate and servo mount posts in the same location. That effectively moves the servo towards the front of the truck and allows room for the upper links to be mounted to the servo plate. Also note that I cut off and drilled through the little nubs that support the back of the servo plate as I plan to add fasteners there to stiffen things up. Here it is assembled. The servo doesn't budge and the upper link mount position provides decent link geometry. The aluminum servo mount posts are also from Inet and are very nice. Stay tuned for more info on the build, but it's going to be a few days... jeff Last edited by schlabinski; 10-22-2009 at 10:01 PM. |
07-14-2005, 11:33 PM | #13 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: vancouver bc
Posts: 26
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that truck is killer i love i twuts ur weel base and articulation and ground clearence if its njot to muchto ask lol any help would be good |
07-15-2005, 07:54 AM | #14 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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I noticed those servo mounts, very nice work. So I assume you are running a 3 link?? (one mount for the upper link shown) How is the articulation with it? Although in one of the first pics of the rear its a 4 link. Some pics with the body off would be great!! Truck looks awesome man, I think you convinced me to open up my fj40 body and get that thing painted for my bulu |
07-15-2005, 12:43 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 245
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fordnut, I made a typo...I am actually using a GP1100 2/3A pack from CheapBatteryPacks.com. So far I love it, and the guys at CheapBatteryPacks.com are a treat to work with. I didn't have my watch on me, but it felt like about 30 minutes of run time with a full charge. tltnewb, I think the wheelbase is around 11 1/4". I made it to match the wheel wells of the FJ40 body. Ground clearance is somewhere around 2.5", but I haven't measured it lately. I'll get some more info out there when I do the write up. Nluvwithxlr8ing, the pictures of the servo mount plates are old. At that point it time, I was going to try a three link, but I wasn't happy with my attempts at bending the tube. So I scrapped that idea, drilled the extra holes in the servo mount plates and made it a four link front and rear. |
07-15-2005, 12:48 PM | #16 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,129
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You're using the 1100 cells? How long have you been using these cells? I was about to put an order in, but am holding out, because I wanted to investigate it a bit more. Maybe I'll have to order it now then.
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07-15-2005, 01:20 PM | #17 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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PWT, I have ran my bulu with a lathe motor and a SR about 3 times now with a 1100 pack, its a matched integy pack and I get around 25-35 min of run. I will say that it does seem like the punch isnt there like it is with a 3300, or the 3700 that I used in the past.
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07-15-2005, 05:14 PM | #18 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,129
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I've lived on 2400's, so I don't imagine I'll be as let down. |
07-16-2005, 08:24 AM | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 245
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PWT, a few of the ORCRC guys have been using those cells in their TLTs and I haven't heard a complaint yet. I only have a few runs with my setup and so far I think it is the perfect size and performace. In my opinion, sub-C cells just seem to big for that size of a truck. The cell configuration that I went with looks like this: _ _ |||| It fits perfectly on my front upper links and I secure it there with a ziptie. |
07-20-2005, 09:40 PM | #20 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 245
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Realizing that I am not going to get around to doing a more formal writeup on the build process, here are a few body-off pictures... Front end: Under the front end: Rear end: Rear steering lockout: Last edited by schlabinski; 10-22-2009 at 10:03 PM. |
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