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Thread: ARGH! stripped out hubs!

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Old 07-22-2005, 06:46 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default ARGH! stripped out hubs!

In case nobody understood from the title i have stripped out those annoying little hex hubs. I tried epoxying them back in but to no sucess. It is allright because i am getting new rims/tires soon anywho, but i dont want to strip out my rims when they get here.

are there any rims that dont stip as easily? do the associated style with just the pin work well?

thanks
harris
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Old 07-22-2005, 06:57 PM   #2
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hey harris, try using gorilla glue. or superglue (make sure it doesn't melt the plastic though).

colin
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:16 PM   #3
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What kind of a motor/wheels were you using? Haven't heard of a TLT doing htat yet...
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:21 PM   #4
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OH i just had the same thing happen to my TLT i was using these rims http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCAN2&P=7
and i was using the stock hexes... n e ways i spun the hexes in 2 of the rims... super glue works wonders.... You could also use little shims to take up the space between hex and hub alond with some super glue... That what i did on my savage. Thats what i do with ever new set up rims on my savage... it has a problem of doing that..
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Old 07-22-2005, 09:29 PM   #5
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Better than shims.....when you fill the void with the super glue use baking soda to fill the gaps. It bonds with the glue and fits into any spot and dries almost to a ceramic hardness.

I have fixed many a stripped hex in my time.
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Old 07-22-2005, 09:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankyRizzo
Better than shims.....when you fill the void with the super glue use baking soda to fill the gaps. It bonds with the glue and fits into any spot and dries almost to a ceramic hardness.

I have fixed many a stripped hex in my time.
This works very Well. ive used this technique to fix Broken a-arms on my stampede and shock towers on MGT's!

Good Luck, Cya
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Old 07-22-2005, 09:56 PM   #7
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Damn that is a good freakin idea!! when i break something or sping a hex im doing this seems like it will work like a charm!
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Old 07-22-2005, 10:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
Damn that is a good freakin idea!!
Those are the kind of ideas we like, freaky ones.
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Old 07-22-2005, 10:48 PM   #9
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I was just using some rpm talons with m2ks on them. my motor might be a bit overkill though. it seems to have more torque that my friends maxx crawler with a lathe motor in it. the motor is this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEXU3&P=7
and I put this on for ****s and giggles, i have no idea if it even does anything.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGVU7&P=7

my car is powered by a crappy 1500 shark pack that only holds about 900 mah. the motor is huge though. this thing is essentialy a titan that is designed for 7.2 volts. the motor is the same size. wheel speed is brisk walking but it has more than enought torque. if any of you guys have a big heavy truck you should try this out! Im afraid im gunna tear the pede tranny into thirds!

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Old 07-22-2005, 10:49 PM   #10
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I have a clod based 2.2 and ALWAYS spun the hex in my rims. I now run RPM's Slingshot rim. http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product.../slingshot.htm
The wheel is much more beefy around the hex. I am not sure what your hex set up is like now and how they fit in the rim, but I dremel into the hex of the rim about 1/16 of an inch so the brass hex will fit completly.
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:15 PM   #11
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You're sure that it's the wheel that's striped? Not the weak plastic hex rounding the corners?

Most of the ORCRC group has rounded plenty of stock plastic hexes and all swapped in the InetRC clamping hexes.... freaking awesome
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Old 07-23-2005, 02:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyofast
You're sure that it's the wheel that's striped? Not the weak plastic hex rounding the corners?

Most of the ORCRC group has rounded plenty of stock plastic hexes and all swapped in the InetRC clamping hexes.... freaking awesome
Sadly the stock date keeps sliding, so sick of waiting Im getting som tamiya clamps from tower. I hope this fixes my hex issues too I have totaly ruined these HPI rims cause the stupis hexes spin inside the wheel. I havent glued em in cuase I cant stand chasing those bugger drive pins all over when I change wheels or god forbid a wheel nut falls off when running.
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Old 07-23-2005, 02:39 AM   #13
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thats the same motor i am using. i dont have the tourqe sleave though, anyways i wouldnt use the stock hex hubs. when i fist got my tlt i thought they looked like they would flex and cause it to strip the wheel hub. right now i am using stock pede hex hubs with good success. i want the inetRC ones but i havent gotten around to it yet sense mine are fine right now.
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:55 PM   #14
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Oh yeah forgot to mention Im runninng a old NIBag B&R stock motor. A I think 13tooth pinion on the smaller pede spurs. Maybe I have too much going into it I have ajusted my radio settings to soften the inital throttle. Doesnt seemed to do much though. I just ordered the integy lathe from tower so we will see if its the motor thats the issue.
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Old 07-23-2005, 02:03 PM   #15
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I wasn't using the tlt hexs, i was using the ones that came with the rpm rims because they were thinner. Aluminum hexes might fix my problem. i think im just gunna get these "aluminum" series rpm rims.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEV84&P=7

they are associated style, so no hexes just the pins. And then i will probably get some more m2ks or some swampers. depends on my mood/money at the time.

peace
harris

Last edited by Harris; 07-23-2005 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 07-23-2005, 04:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harris
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEV84&P=7

they are associated style, so no hexes just the pins. And then i will probably get some more m2ks or some swampers. depends on my mood/money at the time.

So, are you going to be doing the Blackfoot wide axle swap too? If not you are going to have to shave some of the wheel away in order to run AE type pin only wheels. If you don't shave the backside of the wheel or do the axle swap everything will rub and not work smoothly.

Shaving the backside of the wheel where the pin mates up is touchy as you only have so much material to remove before things are not how they should be.

Just get some alunimum hexes and be done with it. The InetRC ones are like $10 and clamp onto the pin. I've never had any issues with them, neither has anyone else I know that runs them. There are other aluminum hexes out there that don't have the clamping feature yet seem to cost more than the InetRC ones...go figure.
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Old 07-23-2005, 04:28 PM   #17
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And now for the question that inevitably comes next.....

Do you have a link to them, my good sir??

seeing as they dont cost much i may just get them plus some other rims. the rims i would be getting would be these for the offset.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCAN2&P=7

and then i would probably run some all-ts because around here i think they would grip fine and they would give me better gc.

what do you think of this?
thanks
harris
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Old 07-23-2005, 04:36 PM   #18
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Try, http://www.inetrc.com Enter the store, then click on TLT. Alex still shows that there is no ETA on when more will be available. You might be able to email him to see whe he thinks more might be ready.
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Old 07-23-2005, 05:45 PM   #19
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thoes ofna rims OWN! i use them on my truck with NO WIDENERS! and i got probably like an inch to an inch and 3/8 wider than stock!

Also what r these blackfoot axles every one is talking about...i have seen pics but i have not noticed n e difference.
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Old 07-24-2005, 05:57 PM   #20
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I've found that neither the wheels or the hexes strip, the wheel flexes out enough in the hex area to cause the hex to spin. I'm using HPI Split 5 truck wheels and RPM plastic hexes. Some epoxy around the hex of the wheel would most likely prevent this, but I can't test it because all four wheels are stripped.

Anyways, I got some AE wheels and have been having good luck with them.
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