RCCrawler Forums

cossack · 10-04-2008, 10:38 AM

decided to do a mock build on my copperhead to get the link sizes right so i can order some ti ones.
the axles:-
front includes bearings rc4wd alloy knuckles fat rock c's straight through shafts and twinset servo mount
rear includes bearings alloy rear lockouts and twinset rear truss
shocks are alloy traxxas
tranny is rc4wd r2d
traxxas stampede drive shafts with metal yokes.
wheels are junfac beadlocks with alloy outer rings and losi claws with memory foams.
and finally the chassis is a copperhead also from rc4wd.
no electrics in it yet but will be using mamba max esc with holmes hobbies revolver black brushless motor and 2400 3cell lipo's.

any hints or tips will be considered.

i am quite happy with the way it looks but things may change

thanks for looking

akguanja · 10-04-2008, 01:07 PM

LOOKS GOOD!

tip: move the upper shocks closer to the hoops you will bend those things you have holding them out off right away. my buddy runs a copperhead.

- tre

grob23 · 10-04-2008, 07:03 PM

Impressive!

I like the way they designed the chassis to mount the servo for the dig... I wonder if there would be any advantage to having it mounted in the chassis as opposed to mounting it on the transmission... (like possibly less resistance, less stress, etc.)

overall nice rig! throw those electronics in there and get to crawlin!

Dynamic^Cipher · 10-04-2008, 10:47 PM

Although the integrated servo mount is pretty slick and werks really well, if you use the servo mount plate for the r2d instead of the lexan inspection cover it does get your servo lower.

I never liked the wrap around skid plate, Aluminum is not the slipperiest material. Something to think about.

Make sure you loctite the 4 screws that hold the bottom plate in the chassis as they are notorious for coming loose..

iwantoffroad · 10-08-2008, 07:17 PM

2 tips

#1
for your tie rod and drag link end links on top of your knuckles

this will give you more clearance under your axle.

if you have any doubts on steering setup, you should read this tech article. It is very informative and contains good pictures of what I am talking about.
http://www.rccrawler.com/strongsteering.html

#2

The screws that you used to mount the shock and lower link. you have screws in backwards.

You should have then face of the screw on the front of the axle and if there is too much thread left over get shorter screws or trim down the ones you got.

Doing this modification will give you a tighter turning radius because the knuckles wont get blocked by the screws.

You can see what I am talking about very clearly in this picture.

they are the 2 vertical screws on the far left and
the 2 vertical screws on the far right
http://www.rccrawler.com/articles/st...ing/steer1.jpg

666 · 10-08-2008, 07:25 PM

Thats not a Copperhead.

SVEN · 10-08-2008, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 666

Thats not a Copperhead.

It's not THE Copperhead, but it is a copperhead from rc4wd....

http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=727

cossack · 10-11-2008, 01:13 PM

thanks for the tips fella as i said it is just mocked up for now and will do these small mods when i get down to the real build which should be happening soon.

will post more pics when she is built

Dynamic^Cipher · 10-12-2008, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 666

Thats not a Copperhead.

Yes it is, what you think a copperhead is was originally called the mantis. Please stop telling people that they are using the wrong name when they are not.

(hehehe....duracrawl)

cossack · 10-12-2008, 07:13 AM

thanks for that i was starting to doubt myself

iwantoffroad · 10-15-2008, 07:15 PM

are you all done with mock up yet
lets get this finished

mexiCAN · 10-15-2008, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynamic^Cipher

Although the integrated servo mount is pretty slick and werks really well, if you use the servo mount plate for the r2d instead of the lexan inspection cover it does get your servo lower.

I never liked the wrap around skid plate, Aluminum is not the slipperiest material. Something to think about.

Make sure you loctite the 4 screws that hold the bottom plate in the chassis as they are notorious for coming loose..

I agree the belly pan got in my way so much, that I ditched it, mine is the red bull one seen on rc4wd's website, I later built my own skid, and then switched to tvp here is a pic, I hope it will help, It puts the copperhead on a diet a little

cossack · 10-16-2008, 01:57 PM

cheers fella got my links now so the build should start soon thanks again for the tips.
mexiCAN do you have a few more pics of yours so i can see if i can get any ideas from ya if you dont mind

cheers

mexiCAN · 10-17-2008, 12:58 AM

I will see if I can dig some more up... Its really very simple, I just traced out the tranny pan and cut it out of hdpe (cutting board) and then later re-did it with acetal, and made some simple side plates out of lexan, it gives you much more ground clarence as well as narrows up the bottom end by at least 1" total if not more. if I were to forget to find pics, just pm me and remind me

good luck with the build, looks like your off to a good start

10-08-2008, 07:17 PM	#5
iwantoffroad Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: South Orange County Posts: 589	2 tips #1 for your tie rod and drag link end links on top of your knuckles this will give you more clearance under your axle. if you have any doubts on steering setup, you should read this tech article. It is very informative and contains good pictures of what I am talking about. http://www.rccrawler.com/strongsteering.html #2 The screws that you used to mount the shock and lower link. you have screws in backwards. You should have then face of the screw on the front of the axle and if there is too much thread left over get shorter screws or trim down the ones you got. Doing this modification will give you a tighter turning radius because the knuckles wont get blocked by the screws. You can see what I am talking about very clearly in this picture. they are the 2 vertical screws on the far left and the 2 vertical screws on the far right http://www.rccrawler.com/articles/st...ing/steer1.jpg Last edited by iwantoffroad; 10-08-2008 at 07:23 PM.

10-04-2008, 10:38 AM	#1
cossack Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: united kingdom Posts: 156	copperhead decided to do a mock build on my copperhead to get the link sizes right so i can order some ti ones. the axles:- front includes bearings rc4wd alloy knuckles fat rock c's straight through shafts and twinset servo mount rear includes bearings alloy rear lockouts and twinset rear truss shocks are alloy traxxas tranny is rc4wd r2d traxxas stampede drive shafts with metal yokes. wheels are junfac beadlocks with alloy outer rings and losi claws with memory foams. and finally the chassis is a copperhead also from rc4wd. no electrics in it yet but will be using mamba max esc with holmes hobbies revolver black brushless motor and 2400 3cell lipo's. any hints or tips will be considered. i am quite happy with the way it looks but things may change thanks for looking

10-04-2008, 01:07 PM	#2
akguanja RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Wasilla Posts: 1,304	LOOKS GOOD! tip: move the upper shocks closer to the hoops you will bend those things you have holding them out off right away. my buddy runs a copperhead. - tre

10-04-2008, 07:03 PM	#3
grob23 RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 1,280	Impressive! I like the way they designed the chassis to mount the servo for the dig... I wonder if there would be any advantage to having it mounted in the chassis as opposed to mounting it on the transmission... (like possibly less resistance, less stress, etc.) overall nice rig! throw those electronics in there and get to crawlin!

10-04-2008, 10:47 PM	#4
Dynamic^Cipher Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: kelowna Posts: 157	Although the integrated servo mount is pretty slick and werks really well, if you use the servo mount plate for the r2d instead of the lexan inspection cover it does get your servo lower. I never liked the wrap around skid plate, Aluminum is not the slipperiest material. Something to think about. Make sure you loctite the 4 screws that hold the bottom plate in the chassis as they are notorious for coming loose..

10-08-2008, 07:25 PM	#6
666 MODERHATER™ Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 10,939	Thats not a Copperhead.

10-11-2008, 01:13 PM	#8
cossack Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: united kingdom Posts: 156	thanks for the tips fella as i said it is just mocked up for now and will do these small mods when i get down to the real build which should be happening soon. will post more pics when she is built

10-12-2008, 07:13 AM	#10
cossack Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: united kingdom Posts: 156	thanks for that i was starting to doubt myself

10-15-2008, 07:15 PM	#11
iwantoffroad Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: South Orange County Posts: 589	are you all done with mock up yet lets get this finished

10-16-2008, 01:57 PM	#13
cossack Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: united kingdom Posts: 156	cheers fella got my links now so the build should start soon thanks again for the tips. mexiCAN do you have a few more pics of yours so i can see if i can get any ideas from ya if you dont mind cheers

10-17-2008, 12:58 AM	#14
mexiCAN Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2008 Location: Tyler, Texas Posts: 119	I will see if I can dig some more up... Its really very simple, I just traced out the tranny pan and cut it out of hdpe (cutting board) and then later re-did it with acetal, and made some simple side plates out of lexan, it gives you much more ground clarence as well as narrows up the bottom end by at least 1" total if not more. if I were to forget to find pics, just pm me and remind me good luck with the build, looks like your off to a good start

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