RCCrawler Forums

badhoopty · 09-25-2005, 05:50 PM

pretty cool little chassis.

12 5/8" wb
3 1/4" center clearance at lowest point

its still a work in progress. i ordered the wrong size traxxas turnbuckles (got them waay too long, who woulda figured the dimensions listed dont include the attached ball ends....) anyway, after a bit of head-scratching i ended up using 4 of them for the rear and robbing my xfactor projects cant rods for the front. its a little over the wb i wanted, but it worked out pretty well and it has more ground clearance than the other rbx rigs i've seen. the current setup gives the chassis a little 'slung' look at ride height. i even used longer shock ends on the rears, but it wasnt enough to balance the chassis out. it really doesnt bother me, i'll see how it performs before i make changes based on looks. being that all my other crawlers are top-heavy scale rigs i'm sure this thing is gonna blow my mind regardless.

i'm waiting for tower to get the tekin rebel 2 in stock, and i have no idea what body to use. i have a lathe, moabs and new pede wheels on the way sometime this week. the wheels on it right now are just to get it on rubber and look halfway complete, it will get a bit wider with the new setup.

i apologize for the crappy pics, it was my first time with a new camera.

and btw, can you say LOW cog? thats 2 silver cans adding weight on top of the chassis...

and yes, it got flex...

Brandon · 09-25-2005, 06:14 PM

Awesome work man, truck looks great!

badhoopty · 09-25-2005, 06:23 PM

thanks, its my first ever 'comp' style crawler and i'm stoked to get it running.

lookin at jasons build i might move my front shocks back a bit on the chassis to level it at ride height.

1beatjeep · 09-25-2005, 07:03 PM

make a braket for the top links

jason · 09-25-2005, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badhoopty

lookin at jasons build i might move my front shocks back a bit on the chassis to level it at ride height.

Haha, you noticed. Yea I didn't like it sitting unlevel, so I just redrilled some new mount holes in the chassis.

badhoopty · 09-25-2005, 08:47 PM

we have close to the same setup. i dont think i'll even have too re-drill. it looks like i may be able to just move my shocks back to the body post holes since i already extended the rear shocks. when i get home i'll try it.

i really dig just how dang simple this rig is, and its so light. without the battery as a roller i bet it wieghs about the same as the chassis of my tlt tuber alone.

and against my better judgement i went with plastic yokes on the tranny side. we'll see if all these peeps postin how the plastic yokes are tough enough just aint beating on them hard enough.

badger · 09-25-2005, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jason

Haha, you noticed. Yea I didn't like it sitting unlevel, so I just redrilled some new mount holes in the chassis.

I actually like mine sitting slightly higher in the front. I think it helps me get the front of my skid up and over things, and if you compensate a little with the body mounting you don't even notice it.

RandyatBBY · 09-26-2005, 01:06 PM

This is cool, Glad to see the rig setup, Very cool:-)

badhoopty · 10-10-2005, 06:46 PM

almost have it done. woot!

-12.5 wb
-rbx chassis & upper link mounts
-pede trans, metal idler gear, pede shafts with steel yokes on the axle side and boiled plastic yokes -on the transmission side.
-lathe motor w 16/84 gearing
-inet hexes
-super rooster
-hitec 645's
-3300 stick pack
-futaba 3 channel reciever
-traxxas 118mm links for rear 4 link and steering
-xfactor cant rods for front links
-maxx plastic shocks with 70wt oil in them. elcheapo plastic caps superglued on.

-moabs on narrowed pede front wheels. foams cut in half then approx 3/4" taken off outside of foam

and...

narrowed bronco body. still w.i.p., gonna take about an inch and a half out of the back so i get a nice departure angle, gonna move everything behind the doors forward so i keep the entire wheelwell. pretty much mimick the front wheel well position on the chassis.

i didnt want to just cut a slice down the middle and narrow it that way, i just kinda started cutting and luckily i havent butchered the body yet..

i'll get better pics once its done. thinking of painting it like a skunk and calling it peppy le'pew, i might even but a nice pink skunk stinker on the back.

Plays_with_Toys · 10-10-2005, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badhoopty

i might even but a nice pink skunk asshole on the back.

That way Satan can tag you from the back and have something to aim for?

badhoopty · 10-10-2005, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plays_with_Toys

That way Satan can tag you from the back and have something to aim for?

i think diglers rig is sweet...

FOR ME TO STINK ON!!!

being my first comp style rig, i am completely blown away by how well this performs.

badhoopty · 10-10-2005, 07:23 PM

oh boy, i figured the filter would take that word out...

my bad. fixed.

Plays_with_Toys · 10-10-2005, 08:00 PM

By the way, I want closer shots of your body work. I think I see how you brought it together, but whats going to hold the panels together?

Gimbal · 10-10-2005, 09:12 PM

Nice job on the lid so far. Cool rig too

mike · 10-10-2005, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plays_with_Toys

By the way, I want closer shots of your body work. I think I see how you brought it together, but whats going to hold the panels together?

He's got rivets in there now. Nice rig. I like the body work but is it comp legal?

badhoopty · 10-11-2005, 09:05 AM

i didnt know there was a legal body setup?i figure if guys can chop like 90% of the bottom of the body off i should be cool narrowing it. its not like i'll ever get the stinking time to actually go to a comp anyway...

the body is just held together with screws atm but i will use rivets when its all done, i only have a few screws in certain key spots and its pretty solid already.

the whole body project just kinda ended up where it is. at first i was just going to dove the front and back, then i got the idea to chop one side off and cut a section out of the middle and re-attach the cut off side, but that looked goofy, then i got the idea to have both sides removed and just take the center section (to retain the hood scoop)

if i were to do another i'd have a much better idea on what to do and would most likely use an h2 body. luckily with this one i havent taken it past the point of no return yet. it should turn out pretty decent imo, although it will look 'panel'ish'

crappy pic of it:

probowler · 10-19-2005, 08:34 PM

any updates?

kaaina · 10-20-2005, 12:05 AM

wow looks and flexes good. i too am working on my rbx chassis and like it alot !! but keep up the awesome work !!!!

09-25-2005, 05:50 PM	#1
badhoopty Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago Posts: 2,814	hooptys RBX pretty cool little chassis. 12 5/8" wb 3 1/4" center clearance at lowest point its still a work in progress. i ordered the wrong size traxxas turnbuckles (got them waay too long, who woulda figured the dimensions listed dont include the attached ball ends....) anyway, after a bit of head-scratching i ended up using 4 of them for the rear and robbing my xfactor projects cant rods for the front. its a little over the wb i wanted, but it worked out pretty well and it has more ground clearance than the other rbx rigs i've seen. the current setup gives the chassis a little 'slung' look at ride height. i even used longer shock ends on the rears, but it wasnt enough to balance the chassis out. it really doesnt bother me, i'll see how it performs before i make changes based on looks. being that all my other crawlers are top-heavy scale rigs i'm sure this thing is gonna blow my mind regardless. i'm waiting for tower to get the tekin rebel 2 in stock, and i have no idea what body to use. i have a lathe, moabs and new pede wheels on the way sometime this week. the wheels on it right now are just to get it on rubber and look halfway complete, it will get a bit wider with the new setup. i apologize for the crappy pics, it was my first time with a new camera. and btw, can you say LOW cog? thats 2 silver cans adding weight on top of the chassis... and yes, it got flex...

10-10-2005, 06:46 PM	#9
badhoopty Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago Posts: 2,814	almost have it done. woot! -12.5 wb -rbx chassis & upper link mounts -pede trans, metal idler gear, pede shafts with steel yokes on the axle side and boiled plastic yokes -on the transmission side. -lathe motor w 16/84 gearing -inet hexes -super rooster -hitec 645's -3300 stick pack -futaba 3 channel reciever -traxxas 118mm links for rear 4 link and steering -xfactor cant rods for front links -maxx plastic shocks with 70wt oil in them. elcheapo plastic caps superglued on. -moabs on narrowed pede front wheels. foams cut in half then approx 3/4" taken off outside of foam and... narrowed bronco body. still w.i.p., gonna take about an inch and a half out of the back so i get a nice departure angle, gonna move everything behind the doors forward so i keep the entire wheelwell. pretty much mimick the front wheel well position on the chassis. i didnt want to just cut a slice down the middle and narrow it that way, i just kinda started cutting and luckily i havent butchered the body yet.. i'll get better pics once its done. thinking of painting it like a skunk and calling it peppy le'pew, i might even but a nice pink skunk stinker on the back. Last edited by badhoopty; 10-10-2005 at 07:23 PM.

09-25-2005, 06:14 PM	#2
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	Awesome work man, truck looks great!

09-25-2005, 06:23 PM	#3
badhoopty Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago Posts: 2,814	thanks, its my first ever 'comp' style crawler and i'm stoked to get it running. lookin at jasons build i might move my front shocks back a bit on the chassis to level it at ride height.

09-25-2005, 07:03 PM	#4
1beatjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: san jose Posts: 2,061	make a braket for the top links

09-25-2005, 08:47 PM	#6
badhoopty Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago Posts: 2,814	we have close to the same setup. i dont think i'll even have too re-drill. it looks like i may be able to just move my shocks back to the body post holes since i already extended the rear shocks. when i get home i'll try it. i really dig just how dang simple this rig is, and its so light. without the battery as a roller i bet it wieghs about the same as the chassis of my tlt tuber alone. and against my better judgement i went with plastic yokes on the tranny side. we'll see if all these peeps postin how the plastic yokes are tough enough just aint beating on them hard enough.

09-26-2005, 01:06 PM	#8
RandyatBBY Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Concord Ca Posts: 913	This is cool, Glad to see the rig setup, Very cool:-)

10-10-2005, 07:23 PM	#12
badhoopty Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago Posts: 2,814	oh boy, i figured the filter would take that word out... my bad. fixed.

10-10-2005, 08:00 PM	#13
Plays_with_Toys I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO Posts: 2,129	By the way, I want closer shots of your body work. I think I see how you brought it together, but whats going to hold the panels together?

10-10-2005, 09:12 PM	#14
Gimbal Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Where it's wet Posts: 833	Nice job on the lid so far. Cool rig too

10-11-2005, 09:05 AM	#16
badhoopty Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago Posts: 2,814	i didnt know there was a legal body setup?i figure if guys can chop like 90% of the bottom of the body off i should be cool narrowing it. its not like i'll ever get the stinking time to actually go to a comp anyway... the body is just held together with screws atm but i will use rivets when its all done, i only have a few screws in certain key spots and its pretty solid already. the whole body project just kinda ended up where it is. at first i was just going to dove the front and back, then i got the idea to chop one side off and cut a section out of the middle and re-attach the cut off side, but that looked goofy, then i got the idea to have both sides removed and just take the center section (to retain the hood scoop) if i were to do another i'd have a much better idea on what to do and would most likely use an h2 body. luckily with this one i havent taken it past the point of no return yet. it should turn out pretty decent imo, although it will look 'panel'ish' crappy pic of it:

10-19-2005, 08:34 PM	#17
probowler Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 75	any updates?

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10-20-2005, 12:05 AM	#18
kaaina Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Nanakuli Posts: 638	wow looks and flexes good. i too am working on my rbx chassis and like it alot !! but keep up the awesome work !!!!

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