tlt axles

[yoda316]

hi i know this would probably take a long time but could someone with a tlt post links at tower or somthing of all the parts needed to bulid 2 complete tlt axles? or would it be like x-factor axels where its almost the price of a complete truck?
thanks if you do cause im low on cash and allready have a rustler tranny so i might just bulid a tlt-10 instead of a txt-1 so i can use cheaper electrics and stuff (can you use a standard steering servo?)
and one last thing how well do tlts crawl before and then after modifications.
im sure at least a couple of other people are wondering the part #s for a complete axle sense thats like the only thing left after buling the truck your own way so why buy more than the axles

[rbgerrish]

Hi,

It'd be easier to just buy a TLT and sell off the rest of the stuff you dont need on ebay or a forum. Better yet try to get a used TLT.

TLT's make great crawlers once modified! You can design a scale looking truck, or widen it and use huge tires and make a seriously capable rig.


have fun,
ryan

[BigSmokinGun]

Originally Posted by rbgerrish

Hi,

It'd be easier to just buy a TLT and sell off the rest of the stuff you dont need on ebay or a forum. Better yet try to get a used TLT.

TLT's make great crawlers once modified! You can design a scale looking truck, or widen it and use huge tires and make a seriously capable rig.


have fun,
ryan

Great advice Ryan. Buy a used TLT and sell the parts you dont want.
If you want to buy the seperate parts though check out this link for TXT axles.

http://www.rcrock.com/shopx/go.cgi?&...mp;P=4x4-T003J

[Plays_with_Toys]

I'd say buy a used TLT but keep all the other parts. You never know what the little tidbits can be used for later. There is a axle widener mod that uses the cantilever mounts. The shocks might be good for another project, etc.. But pretty much with all the parts bags intermixed, you almost have to buy every part bag in the kit to assemble the axles. Good luck and keep us posted!

[Jim511]

Well if you really wanna spend about 80-90 bucks on just buying the axles, here's what you need, these are all tamiya numbers, but if you want Ive got most of tower hobbies too: Tamiya part #

OOO4219

50867

9804177

9444386

9444396

50602

9464050

9464051

9464052

9464053

9464054

[Plays_with_Toys]

Jim511, do you know the part number for a shock parts tree? I lost the plastic spring retainer for one of my TLT shocks.

[CustomCrawler]

Heres what the part numbers go to and what you'll need in each tree:
D parts (axle cases, wheel hexes) 0004219 (2)
C Parts (knuckles) 50867 (2)
A parts (bumpers (optional)) 9004139 (2)
Differential parts bag (Axle Drive shafts A and B) 9804177
Drive parts bag 2 (bevel gear shaft, upper link mount) 9444386
Grease Bag (lower link mounts) 9444396
Bearing Bag (bushings) 9444388
Bevel gear bag (bevel gears) 50602 (2)
Damper Parts bag (steering linkages) 9404446
Adjuster bag (ball joints) 9444389
Screw bag A (screws, nuts and e clips) 9464050
Screw bag B (screws and nuts) 9464051
Screw bag C (washers and screws) 946052
Screw bag D (screws) 9464053
Screw bag E (ball connectors) 9464054
Screw bag F (ball connector nuts) 9464055

PWT-Thats the V parts tree. Number 0225086

[yoda316]

yikes i added the parts up at tower and it is like 150 cause they like force you to order like 2 or 3 of the same part if its on back order. ill just buy the whole truck. are tlt axles strong? i saw somthing about this one part people keep breaking ? and on the max climber its stronger?
and are the diffs hard to lock cause i saw this http://www.rccrawler.com/postt2396.html how do i not mess up locking them.
and one last thing can i use standard steering servos like a futaba 3003 or whatever ( the cheap 10 dollar ones)

[rbgerrish]

1) Yes TLT axles are very stong. I have 6 of them running and have yet to damage anything, and I run them pretty hard! I dont know what part you are refering to that people keep breaking.

2) Max climber axles are the same.

3)Diff are super easy to lock. you can use JB weld, hot glue, CA, or whatever floats your boat.

4) a standard servo will work fine, but the better the servo, the better the steering in rough situations...

[yoda316]

thanks for the help everone a tlt it is i already have most of the electrics and stuff so it shouldnt cost too much ill probably get a super rooster and a 55t lathe motor i cant wait to get building , i think ill bulid it stock than drive it around for a while then get down to customising it so i can see how much better it is than stock i wonder how bad it will work, now its off to tower i go (batman music plays as i open towers website) yeah by the way im a neerdy 18 year old as you can see by my yoda picture lol
thanks again

[Plays_with_Toys]

The part that breaks is the actual drive axle that goes from the diff to the outside of the axle case. At the end of it is a dog bone like end, a (ball with a pin) The axle narrows just before getting to the ball, and people that are running brushless or maxx trannies are the ones breaking this part. On the max climber, the axle doesn't narrow, hence it is stronger.

The reason that person messed up locking their diff was because some of the JB weld got in front of the drive axle that has the pin which inserts into the female drive axle and once it got into the female and it solidified. I did it with silly putty once and it made it so that I couldn't get everything to line up again. Locking it isn't very difficult though.

Oh, a standard servo will work... You will want to upgrade and swap out for a better servo saver. The one supplied is crap. It is too loose and doesn't hold the tires well against the rocks.

[BigSmokinGun]

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, he could go with a cheaper ESC also, especially since he's going to use the lathe motor.