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Old 01-06-2006, 10:14 PM   #1
Rock Stacker
 
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Default 1st TIME TLT-10 BUILD
THINGS NOT TO BAD WAITING FOR THE SNOW TO GO TO TAKE IT OUTSIDE.
TO ALL YOU WHO RAG ME I DID IT WITH CHEAP MONEY GOT IN BAD MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT IN MAY LOST MY RIGHT LEG NEEDED TO KEEP MY TIME OFF THING. ALREADY HAD ELECTRONICS.THE PICS IM SHOWING ARE THE BUILD UP THE ONES WITH THE JEEP BODY ARE HOW IT STANDS NOW.
http://photobucket.com/albums/d194/o...madman/tlt-10/
SORRY NOT TO GOOD WITH PIC THING ANY KIND HELP WOULD BE NICE .
HERE A LIST OF WHATS GOING ON.
STOCK FRAME&AXLES W/FULL BEARING LOCKED,
PEDE TRANNY LOCKED,
55T INTEGY LATHE OF COURSE,
ROBINSON OLD SCHOOL RC10 GEARING 56SPUR 12PIN,
XFACTOR SHOCKS&RODS,
FUTABA3003 SERVOS "THEY BLOW",
TQ3 W/4WHL IND,
2.2 MOAB ON PEDE REAR RIMS "WANT TO WEIGHT INSIDE",
TOBE CRAP WIDE TRACK 32MM,
TJ BODY W/PISSER PAINT JOB,
NOVAK ROOSTER,
TMAXX SHAFTS
TWO BATTERY PACKS "ALWAYS GOT A SPARE!"

PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK
ANY OTHERS IN SOUTHERN NH
Last edited by one legged machinist; 01-06-2006 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:54 AM   #2
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Looks pretty good. One thing you should do tho is move all your steering links above the knucke. Better clearance and it only taks a few minutes.
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Old 01-07-2006, 11:16 AM   #3
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Nice job. Like the hex links.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 01-07-2006, 11:17 AM   #4
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OMG... ILRCRC actually said something of good use... jk... yes get thoes steering links above knuckles.... also y did you widen the chassis to fit the pede tranny in.... looks a little wide and un braced if you ask me... DITCH the two batteries.... one is fine above front axle.... also TURN YOUR CAPS LOCK OFF ITS REALLY REALLY HARD TO READ!!!!
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Old 01-07-2006, 12:51 PM   #5
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Thanks Ill Move Those Links Around Tonight Any Others In Southern Nh
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Old 01-07-2006, 03:44 PM   #6
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Yeah looks pretty good. I didn't even bother reading your post, its rediculously hard to read.
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Old 01-07-2006, 07:16 PM   #7
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well i changed all of it around much better.thanks for the tip Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
couple of new flex shots too
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Old 01-07-2006, 07:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one legged machinist
Thanks Ill Move Those Links Around Tonight Any Others In Southern Nh

im in northern mass, right near seabrook. lmk if you have any good spots... ive got a couple secret locations where i run my tlt
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:42 PM   #9
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sweet we'll have to hook up whe weather is better

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got any pics of yours
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:42 PM   #10
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nice.... hey if you want some bash proof steering links. sleeve them with 3/16" break line... i run it on mine and it works great.
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Old 01-08-2006, 01:20 AM   #11
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Sick little rig!
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Old 01-08-2006, 02:53 AM   #12
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In this picture, Why did you put your links outside the brackets after the shocks? That is stupid. Use the bracket with two holes and install the lower links in one and the shock in the other. Your axle will stop flopping around.

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Old 01-08-2006, 03:24 PM   #13
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Things work great the way they are now there piehole

Click the image to open in full size.

If i moved links any closer to tire they rub "something you know alot about!"
Click the image to open in full size.
DO YOU SEE!
Click the image to open in full size.

Don't mess with the ONE LEGGED MADMAN
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:08 PM   #14
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Actually I would have to agree with RCK. Space out the lower links at the chassis (maybe a 1/4-3/8" and then move the linkes inside the bracket. If you need to keep the shocks spaced out, add some spacers, but because both your link triangles are in the same direction, then you don't have much stopping side to side flop. By making triangles in opposite directions, you make the axle stable. Thats why all really solid links on rigs have a set of parrallel links with one set of triangles, or dual triangulated links. Though, some say if you triangle too much with the second triangle, you limit flex.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:36 PM   #15
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What shafts are you using? They look really long, and don't look like they've been extended.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:37 PM   #16
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Hey well i didn't build this thing to be road worthy.I want that crap to flop all over.I tried many different spot for links w/x factor shocks and links there is very little room.Im going to post a little indoor vid in a day or so.Keep your eye open for it.
Click the image to open in full size.
Cut them post down for side clip
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:47 PM   #17
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Using custom fab "demel" tmaxx shafts.Big strong like bull.



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Old 01-08-2006, 08:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one legged machinist
Using custom fab "demel" tmaxx shafts.Big strong like bull.



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So you did extend maxx shafts?
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plays_with_Toys
Actually I would have to agree with RCK. Space out the lower links at the chassis (maybe a 1/4-3/8" and then move the linkes inside the bracket. If you need to keep the shocks spaced out, add some spacers, but because both your link triangles are in the same direction, then you don't have much stopping side to side flop. By making triangles in opposite directions, you make the axle stable. Thats why all really solid links on rigs have a set of parrallel links with one set of triangles, or dual triangulated links. Though, some say if you triangle too much with the second triangle, you limit flex.
i agree PWT. having your shocks and links mounted on the same side of that bracket makes for one h e ll of a single shear point. it's just a weak spot that's easy to eliminate. other than that, it's a cool looking TLT!
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Old 01-09-2006, 04:59 PM   #20
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I don't think as a newbie, you should be making statements like that to a longtime memeber of RCC, I also agree with him on the link mount. I have built tons of these and never seen one work very well the way you have it. Just my 15 years worth of .o2 cents
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