03-18-2006, 12:02 AM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
| TLT build - Titan
I am getting back into RC trucks again... so i made this web site to document my progress on a TLT build up. http://www.teeceetee.com/tltbuild/index.htm suggestions / comments are always welcome 3-26-2006 I got the sw2 chassis in the mail on friday so i started the build up. lots of new pics and comments... 3-31-2006 Whoot!! I "finished" the truck. lots of new pics and comments... 4-08-2006 I got some drive time in and i made some videos. see the bottom of the web site linked from above. Last edited by Sync; 04-09-2006 at 12:33 AM. |
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03-18-2006, 07:19 AM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: wyckoff, NJ
Posts: 639
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looks like a good start. Benders chassis is amazing, you will be impressed. |
03-18-2006, 08:08 AM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
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Looks good!!
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03-18-2006, 10:44 AM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 606
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Can you give some specs on that esc? I thought those were boat esc's?
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03-18-2006, 11:04 AM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: prepareing for my 07 world 2.2 championship
Posts: 26
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Looks good, and yes the bender chassic works great... |
03-18-2006, 01:11 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: over there
Posts: 264
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I was wondering where you got the pede tranny. Like all the parts
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03-18-2006, 02:27 PM | #7 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
| thanks for the comments, all. i got the speed control about 5 years ago from UltimateHobbies (i used to live about 5 miles from them) and i bought it for a XXX-T. i wasnt aware that it was an esc for boats. when i bought it, the dude behind the counter pulled the speed control out of a cabinet in the RC truck area. but who knows? looking back on it, i think it was kinda expensive... around $120.00. it is fairly small compared to other esc's i have seen.. about 1" x 1" x 0.5". i am at work right now, so i dont have the spec's on it. when i get a chance, however, i will post it here. the pede tranny i got from Tammies Hobbies for $50.00. i must say, the people and the service at that shop are excellent ( i spoke with brian 1-800-521-5614). i got my order in 3 working days. |
03-18-2006, 05:53 PM | #8 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
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here are the specs on the esc i have: Keyence A-07R: Size: 31mm x 26.5mm x 18mm weight: 26g FET qyantity: 24 "ON" Resistance: 0.0018 ohms (FET data) / .003 ohms (Actual data) Applicable motor: over 7 turns PWM frequency: 2930hz Receiver/servo regulator: 7.2 V input, 5.8 V output, 1 Amp max. hmm... with using 2 servos, i wonder if those would draw more than 1 amp? anyone know what the draw is on the HS-645's? |
03-18-2006, 06:01 PM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
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hah... a little searching and i found the answer (in red): Control System: +Pulse Width Control 1500usec Neutral Required Pulse: 3-5 Volt Peak to Peak Square Wave Operating Voltage: 4.8-6.0 Volts Operating Temperature Range: -20 to +60 Degree C Operating Speed (4.8V): 0.24sec/60 degrees at no load Operating Speed (6.0V): 0.20sec/60 degrees at no load Stall Torque (4.8V): 106.93 oz/in. (7.7kg.cm) Stall Torque (6.0V): 133.31 oz/in. (9.6kg.cm) Operating Angle: 45 Deg. one side pulse traveling 400usec 360 Modifiable: Yes Direction: Clockwise/Pulse Traveling 1500 to 1900usec Current Drain (4.8V): 8.8mA/idle and 350mA no load operating Current Drain (6.0V): 9.1mA/idle and 450mA no load operating Dead Band Width: 8usec Motor Type: 3 Pole Ferrite Potentiometer Drive: Indirect Drive Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing Gear Type: 3 Metal Gears and 1 Resin Metal Gear Connector Wire Length: 11.81" (300mm) Dimensions: 1.59" x 0.77"x 1.48" (40.6 x 19.8 x 37.8mm) Weight: 1.94oz. (55.2g) so, 2 of the 645's would draw 0.9 Amps |
03-26-2006, 10:38 PM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
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bump
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03-27-2006, 04:43 PM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Walnut Creek
Posts: 67
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nice build
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03-27-2006, 06:55 PM | #12 |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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Nice work, I like the before and after pics. The battery touching the chassis shouldn't affect the suspension, unless your zip-tie is really tight. I have velcro between the top of the servo and the battery, then I lightly tighten up the zip-tie. The Velcro stops the battery from sliding back and forth, but lets the battery move as needed while the suspension cycles. The zip-tie just keeps the battery from falling off. Make sure all your rodends are moving freely too. A few guys have had binding issues because they overtightened the links into the rodends. This can pinch the ball in the rod end enough to cause binding. |
03-27-2006, 07:14 PM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: R.I.P. Chip
Posts: 2,024
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I've had very good luck w/ the hot glue, I've built 4 tlt's w/ it and never had one slip yet. Including my comp rig and one I built for my 7 tr. old daughter ( and she never lets up on the throttle when bound up!!) I think there are diff. types of glue sticks, some harder than others. Also when I'm locking them I heat up the ring gear side of the diff w/ heat gun so it does'nt cool to fast. Then I turn the gears to "coat" them w/ glue, then slap on the cover and screw it together. Don't forget blue locktight on the small screws. I forgot to say SWEET! Very nice buidup, I don't have enough patience to take pic's and build at the same time. I always go to the garage w/ the camera and start building and by the time I'm done I've taken only 1 or 2 pics! Oh well, nice work though!! Last edited by racerx; 03-27-2006 at 07:21 PM. |
03-27-2006, 10:14 PM | #14 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
| thanks for the comments, guys. ya.... the zip tie is very tight. i will have to try the velcro/zip tie idea. i checked all the balls in the rod ends and they all move freely. the angle on the upper links, however, is great enough that there is some binding. or perhaps it is the screws/bolts/washers that are pressing too tight against the rod ends that is causing it. should all the links (when bolted in) be very free moving? i also remeasured the chassis height tonight and it is at 3.5 inches (sheesh... i messed up on that messurement from before). when i reassemble everything, i think i am going to move the shocks to the upper holes on the chassis and maybe one hole in closer to the center of the chassis. that should lower the ride height a little (and move the drive shafts in a tad to get more bite). i will probably have to tighten the springs a little as well. hopefully, i wont get too much torque twist from reloacting the shocks. "Also when I'm locking them I heat up the ring gear side of the diff w/ heat gun so it does'nt cool to fast. Then I turn the gears to "coat" them w/ glue, then slap on the cover and screw it together." hmm... that is a good idea. all i did was squirt the glue inbetween the gears until it was a gear/glue blob. tonight, when i took apart the diffs (to prep for re-locking), the glue popped out in 3 distinct chunks. oh well. i am going to use JB weld and be done with it thanks again for the feedback. i will post more pics as i reassemble this thing Last edited by Sync; 03-27-2006 at 10:16 PM. |
03-31-2006, 11:34 PM | #15 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
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bump
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04-06-2006, 08:28 PM | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LAVAL,QC
Posts: 14
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very cool ride like youre project |
04-09-2006, 12:32 AM | #17 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: LA
Posts: 77
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I got some drive time in and i made some videos. see the bottom of this page: http://www.teeceetee.com/tltbuild/ if you cant view them using quicktime, you can download them to your computer and run them using windows media player. when viewing the videos, if you can see any needed modifications/adjustments that would improve the truck, let me know. enjoy Last edited by Sync; 04-09-2006 at 12:34 AM. |
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