Scale Style Bronco (TLT Based)

[CWDU]

When I was getting all that stuff figured out I had my LHS order me a couple different cup joints so we could try them out and see what fit. All I can tell you is that we tried one other HPI set that did not work. I'm not sure but those look like they may be the ones that didn't fit. Wish I had paid more attention so that I could help you on this one, sorry.

[BoilermakerFan]

OK, thanks. That set I posted had the screws and cups and my LHS would have it in stock, they didn't have the others, but I'll have them order 'em. Don't feel like sanding down tha shafts.

[Smurf]

hey what servo are you using for steering?

[CWDU]

Boilermaker, if you were going to sand down the shafts you could keep the stock cups. Actually I tried to do that originally and was not pleased with the results. It took a long time and they didn't run smoothly. Unless you are a super whiz with the Dremel, or you set up some kind of jig the results will be less than perfect.

Little blue guy, basically any high torque, metal geared servo with ball bearings will do. Mine is a Hi-Tec HS645-MG. It has plenty of power to move the whole truck around.

[BoilermakerFan]

Nope, I'll save the dremel for cutting tires!

Going to have the LHS order the same parts you used.

Once Vertigo Performance releases their center locker diff for Stampede sliders, I'm going to go that route, but with modified Maxx sliders so I can use the 106mm/116mm turnbuckles and pick up another 3/4" of stretch.

I'll be running dual Hitec HS 5645MG digital servos front and rear since they have great holding torque and I have five of them "laying around."

Oh, how did you modify your body posts? Did you move them or replace them?

[CWDU]

For the front body posts I used the stock ones. The screw that usually goes in the top hole of the chassis is mounted level with the top of the plate. I dremeled out some grooves for it to go across and put a washer on the inside to hold it in place. The little black molded pins now fit in the screws original hole.

The rear mounts come off the side of the chassis plates to the side of the body. They are from Associated, don't remember the vehicle, but they are 5.5 inches long. This setup is very strong and stable, but I have no adjustability options.

Ok, after typing all that I realized I better throw in a pic for good measure:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...26217979Loxilr

[Smurf]

The reason i wanted to know because in the pictures it compacted

[rockhound]

That is an awesome truck - now I am torn between building something like that or a 1/10ish scale tube crawler. Does that truck have rear steer?

[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks for the detailed description and the pick CWDU.

rockhound - rear steering is an option, Tamiya includes the mounts for a rear servo, but you need to provide the Y-harness or use a 3-channel radio. If you get the Penguin R/C chassis, then you'll need to buy a second servo mount kit to relocate the rear steer servo like their front one.

I have my Penguin chassis assembled, I still have to build up my axles, mount the servos, build the shocks, install the 4-links, and install the electronics. That will done tonight and tomorrow.

[BoilermakerFan]

CWDU

I'm getting closer...



The body is not center since it's just sitting on the rear mounts. I have to move both mounts out to the ends of the chassis, but the WB is perfect for this body.

The Vertigo center locker is in. The Maxx sliders will work! I need another pack of 4mmx6mm grub screws since the u-joint yokes need two each to stay centered. I need to reconfigure my link mounts and get my Maxx 4" shocks directly mounted to the chassis so I can determine how much to take off the Maxx sliders.

[CWDU]

That truck is looking sweet! Make sure you post a link on this thread if you start a post when you are done with your truck, that way I won't miss it.

[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks. I will. I need to pick up more carbon tube to make links and cross braces. I have a small piece but I don't have enough to make all the links.

[fullmodtxt]

What wheels are on the truck in the last pic posted (sitting in the snow)? I need to get a set of them! Thanx!

[BoilermakerFan]

They are RPM Starz Part Number: 81016 Assoc. Rear, Alum. Finish (w/ 3/16" axles)



They don't need hexes, just the pin. I narrowed just the back sides. Once the weather is warmer, the back sides will be sprayed with silver vinyl dye.

My LHS had them for $9.00/pair plus I get an additional 10% since we have an r/c club.

[fullmodtxt]

Thanx for the quick reply on the wheels! I get %10 percent also. It's nice, but doesn't help much when I wind up breaking or not using %50 of what I actually buy!!! Now I'm glad that I didn't glue my 2.2 swampers onto those HPI wheels that I bought there... Thanx again for the reply.

[chev12olet]

" HPI 86mm dogbones and new drive cups for axles " My question is what drive cups did you use. This is the problem i am having is finding some that fit. And if you have any other sugestions on things you did let me know that would be cool. Any info is good INFO.

[BoilermakerFan]

Originally Posted by chev12olet

" HPI 86mm dogbones and new drive cups for axles " My question is what drive cups did you use. This is the problem i am having is finding some that fit. And if you have any other sugestions on things you did let me know that would be cool. Any info is good INFO.

CWDU posted the HPI part numbers on the first page


CWDU:

I added more pics in my Vertigo Center Diff Locker thread:
http://www.rccrawler.com/postp50194.html#50194

[CWDU]

Chevy, the parts are listed about halfway down the first page, the drive cups do not come with set screws. My LHS ordered the screws for me so I don't remember what part # they were.

Orange-appeal, I read about your Bug project, sounds cool. Yes, my wheelbase is 11", the width from outside the tires is 10". That's with Stampede wheels, whichever have the widest offset, can't remember if they're front or back.