RCCrawler Forums

rock_starr · 05-08-2006, 03:10 AM

ok here is my project. not much more than your basic tltw/ pede tranny... i kinda took a different route on the supension. i was thinking about making a radius arm for it and was wondering how would i be able to keep the front axle from wandering. it is going to be a weekend wheeler. it is gonna see comp action in the phx area but will mostly just run around on rock piles in mine and in my friends neighbor hoods.here is a pic of it if it posts.

keep in mind this is a mock up pic. i have the rear fully functional minus shocks. the front is just mock up radius arms and needs to have something like a trac bar or something. bad thing is this aint a "tuber" or "scale" truck. it is comp based rig with minimal chassis. oh and sorry about the messy workbench.

BagoXCAlum · 05-09-2006, 05:10 PM

I think thats the first time I've seen one of those bodies on a crawler. Looks good so far!

Matt

rock_starr · 05-10-2006, 12:39 AM

thanks. i just got it ready to rock but i still have a wandering issue with my front axle. i was reading something and it said that a radius arm is a better articulating 2link setup and is hard to center without a trac bar.

i guess my question is if i have minimal spacing between my front arms at the chassis will that help my wandering.

oh btw a few specs:
proline bunker jumper golf cart body
cut m2ks
hpi F5 black rims
pede tranny
futaba esc w/3amp bec
hybrid servos
tq3
4ws
OPEN CENTER DIFF
losi white springs
95 degrees of articulation
motor>hybrid
6 cell race pack (full size)

please post any comments or questions you may have reguarding anything about this project.

microgoat · 05-10-2006, 10:11 AM

Why would you use an open center diff?

OORRACING · 05-10-2006, 10:14 AM

haha.. thats cool, but i expected someone to build the rhino before the golf cart. its different.are you having a toque isuue,like axle-wrap? or side to side locating?? on a 2 link front end, youwant 4 attachment points on the axle fron the radiuos arm, and 2 points on the chassis to the arm.just like a 4-link, bu tthe lower links attach to the uppers. hope it makes sence..

KEvIN

f150dan · 05-10-2006, 11:27 AM

I don't know if you are having trouble with the axle wrapping or not, but if you are, you can made a Y at the axle side of one of your links that would add an extra mounting point to the axle. You need to make the y link mount higher then the standard link mount for this to work. You will still have to run a trac bar to stabilize the side to side motion thought.

Thats how I done the front suspension on my '66 Bronco with full width axles.

(on the drive side radius arm, I made a Y that connected to the hoghead of the Dana 44 axle.) The radius arms are tubular and mount to the chassis using Heim joints.

rock_starr · 05-11-2006, 02:52 AM

it is a side to side wander. i have it mounted to the axle in four places, so it wont wrap up.

i was tinkering and i noticed that at a certain point on the rod ends that tyhey dont move side to side. this might let me get away without a trac bar. ill post the results of the testing on it. i dont mind about an 1/8th inch but a half inch + is too much. if i lose a bit of articulation it is ok. i already have 95 degrees.

the open center diff is experimental and if it works properly should help keep rearward rollovers to a minimum on steep climbs and front rolls on descents. like i said it is experimental.

f150dan · 05-11-2006, 11:32 AM

Are you leaving the center diff totally open, or is it limited slip by using thick grease or something?

rock_starr · 05-12-2006, 02:06 AM

it is more limited slip. i have packed it with thick automotive bearing grease so it will slip some but it is so full it has to have a noticable torque difference to diferenciate. so if i bind up a rear tire it should send the power to the front. i have been figuring this out and it seems to work in concept and on paper but we all know that what works on paper may not work in the real world. i may swap in my other diff with either a lighter/heavier grease if i see necesary.

plyr2k · 05-13-2006, 07:54 PM

did i see 95 degrese of articulation? thats gunna hurt not help

f150dan · 05-14-2006, 01:32 AM

I used to do that with the diff in my brushless Pede. The only problem is, it will sling all of the grease out in a couple weeks. It should last longer on a slow turning crawler though.

rock_starr · 05-15-2006, 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plyr2k

did i see 95 degrese of articulation? thats gunna hurt not help

front suspension mod completed and articulation has been cut back about 10-15 degrees. besides here in the phx we have a knack for super flexy vehicles that will stait up perform well.

btw the diff is holding grese just fine. i took an extra step and rtv siliconed the cover on so the only place it can really leak is the outdrives.

pardon the misuse of terms and such its is 230am.

rock_starr · 05-17-2006, 11:08 PM

well it got the body posts mounted and the body is now set. i think it is kinda funny that it can set on 2 mt. dew cans and not quite be at full flex. enjoy the pic.

nd4spdbh · 05-18-2006, 02:38 PM

he he nice... probaly tooooo much flex, and it looks like you got quite a bit of flex steer.

murdock · 05-20-2006, 12:49 AM

you need some crushed velvet on those seats, to look pimp

rock_starr · 05-20-2006, 09:10 PM

it is 4 wheel steer. it is a play truck so it dont really matter too much on the flex steer. hell my wrangler does it too.

05-08-2006, 03:10 AM	#1
rock_starr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: gilbert Posts: 227	project rock cart ok here is my project. not much more than your basic tltw/ pede tranny... i kinda took a different route on the supension. i was thinking about making a radius arm for it and was wondering how would i be able to keep the front axle from wandering. it is going to be a weekend wheeler. it is gonna see comp action in the phx area but will mostly just run around on rock piles in mine and in my friends neighbor hoods.here is a pic of it if it posts. keep in mind this is a mock up pic. i have the rear fully functional minus shocks. the front is just mock up radius arms and needs to have something like a trac bar or something. bad thing is this aint a "tuber" or "scale" truck. it is comp based rig with minimal chassis. oh and sorry about the messy workbench.

05-09-2006, 05:10 PM	#2
BagoXCAlum Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: north central IL Posts: 242	I think thats the first time I've seen one of those bodies on a crawler. Looks good so far! Matt

05-10-2006, 12:39 AM	#3
rock_starr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: gilbert Posts: 227	thanks. i just got it ready to rock but i still have a wandering issue with my front axle. i was reading something and it said that a radius arm is a better articulating 2link setup and is hard to center without a trac bar. i guess my question is if i have minimal spacing between my front arms at the chassis will that help my wandering. oh btw a few specs: proline bunker jumper golf cart body cut m2ks hpi F5 black rims pede tranny futaba esc w/3amp bec hybrid servos tq3 4ws OPEN CENTER DIFF losi white springs 95 degrees of articulation motor>hybrid 6 cell race pack (full size) please post any comments or questions you may have reguarding anything about this project.

05-10-2006, 10:11 AM	#4
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	Why would you use an open center diff?

05-10-2006, 10:14 AM	#5
OORRACING Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Bellflower Posts: 195	haha.. thats cool, but i expected someone to build the rhino before the golf cart. its different.are you having a toque isuue,like axle-wrap? or side to side locating?? on a 2 link front end, youwant 4 attachment points on the axle fron the radiuos arm, and 2 points on the chassis to the arm.just like a 4-link, bu tthe lower links attach to the uppers. hope it makes sence.. KEvIN

05-10-2006, 11:27 AM	#6
f150dan Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Jonesboro, TN Posts: 442	I don't know if you are having trouble with the axle wrapping or not, but if you are, you can made a Y at the axle side of one of your links that would add an extra mounting point to the axle. You need to make the y link mount higher then the standard link mount for this to work. You will still have to run a trac bar to stabilize the side to side motion thought. Thats how I done the front suspension on my '66 Bronco with full width axles. (on the drive side radius arm, I made a Y that connected to the hoghead of the Dana 44 axle.) The radius arms are tubular and mount to the chassis using Heim joints.

05-11-2006, 02:52 AM	#7
rock_starr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: gilbert Posts: 227	it is a side to side wander. i have it mounted to the axle in four places, so it wont wrap up. i was tinkering and i noticed that at a certain point on the rod ends that tyhey dont move side to side. this might let me get away without a trac bar. ill post the results of the testing on it. i dont mind about an 1/8th inch but a half inch + is too much. if i lose a bit of articulation it is ok. i already have 95 degrees. the open center diff is experimental and if it works properly should help keep rearward rollovers to a minimum on steep climbs and front rolls on descents. like i said it is experimental.

05-11-2006, 11:32 AM	#8
f150dan Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Jonesboro, TN Posts: 442	Are you leaving the center diff totally open, or is it limited slip by using thick grease or something?

05-12-2006, 02:06 AM	#9
rock_starr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: gilbert Posts: 227	it is more limited slip. i have packed it with thick automotive bearing grease so it will slip some but it is so full it has to have a noticable torque difference to diferenciate. so if i bind up a rear tire it should send the power to the front. i have been figuring this out and it seems to work in concept and on paper but we all know that what works on paper may not work in the real world. i may swap in my other diff with either a lighter/heavier grease if i see necesary.

05-13-2006, 07:54 PM	#10
plyr2k Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: igloo, Alaska Posts: 193	did i see 95 degrese of articulation? thats gunna hurt not help

05-14-2006, 01:32 AM	#11
f150dan Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Jonesboro, TN Posts: 442	I used to do that with the diff in my brushless Pede. The only problem is, it will sling all of the grease out in a couple weeks. It should last longer on a slow turning crawler though.

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05-17-2006, 11:08 PM	#13
rock_starr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: gilbert Posts: 227	well it got the body posts mounted and the body is now set. i think it is kinda funny that it can set on 2 mt. dew cans and not quite be at full flex. enjoy the pic.

05-18-2006, 02:38 PM	#14
nd4spdbh Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Dude on my dirt bike in SoCal!!! Posts: 949	he he nice... probaly tooooo much flex, and it looks like you got quite a bit of flex steer.

05-20-2006, 12:49 AM	#15
murdock Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: jacksonville beach Posts: 848	you need some crushed velvet on those seats, to look pimp

05-20-2006, 09:10 PM	#16
rock_starr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: gilbert Posts: 227	it is 4 wheel steer. it is a play truck so it dont really matter too much on the flex steer. hell my wrangler does it too.

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