TLT shaft alternative (using stock tranny AND wheelbase)..

[Lunchboxer]

Yes, I did do a search.. a lot of creative people here.. different trannies, different shafts, etc.

The thing is, mine is not really a crawler yet.. still pretty close to stock wheelbase.. using stock belt tranny..

I have been running a titanium universal (axle end) / dogbone (tranny side) from eBay.. it is not bad, unfortunately, it was definitely designed for stock or even smaller size vehicle, the pin on the universal joint was very small and wear and tear kicks in rather quickly..

I seen people put REVO shaft on TXT with minimal modification.. so I am looking for something that I can use on the TLT..

I still run the stock tranny, but I have converted it to Tamiya TA04 geared type diff and then locked w/ JB Weld.. so it has drive cups that slip into the diff via spline from outside, compare to the stock one that you need to disassemble the chassis if you ever need to change the drive cups..

Anyway, so on one end, I got the stock TLT axle, on the other end, I got a typical Tamiya drive cup..

What's the best way to hook them up? REVO yoke takes 6mm shaft, so this is out, right?

Thanks!

[peej410]

look up revo shaft on tlt and various stuff like that... it will explain how to put revo shafts on the stock tlt cups

[Lunchboxer]

I think the Revo shaft / yoke is so big that it will interfere w/ the stock link location... argh... I might still get one to see if it will fit or not...

Any other alternative that's thinner?

[peej410]

you can change the stock link location with mostly factory parts. why do you need revo shafts if your running the stock tranny?

[Lunchboxer]

Originally Posted by peej410

you can change the stock link location with mostly factory parts. why do you need revo shafts if your running the stock tranny?

Because I wear out the drive cup rather easily.. and I don't want to keep on changing them.. want something that's stronger to begin with.. !!

[shutupanddrive]

I'm not sure if any yokes would be a direct bolt on if you removed your drive cups, but you might want to look into using the Pede sliders instead of Revo shafts. I use them on my TLT with a Vertigo locker and love them. Plus, if they are too long, you can cut them down. If you went with a Pede slider, it would just be a metter of modifying the yokes to fit onto the ends of your diff. I managed to get Revo shafts to fit onto my Genesis Diffs, so I know anything is possible with a steady hand and a dremel!

[peej410]

i have to mod a set of revo dshafts to fit over tlt diff cups later tonight, if you send me your parts (including the drive cups and a set of revo shafts) ill modify them for you on my lathe for 15 bucks or so..

[Lunchboxer]

Looks like I will need to do some experimenting myself.. thanks for the offer on the lathe work.. I will let you know if I need that! Thanks!

[peej410]

no prob good luck

[wyattburp]

Hey Lunchboxer!

I'm still not sure how or why you're going through drive cups like you are...I am all stock in that area and even running a brushless system, I'm getting no wear at all on mine.... Do you have some binding going on or something? Maybe I'm just confused...

[peej410]

the pin on the universal joint was very small and wear and tear kicks in rather quickly

whenever you open up the tolerance on a piece like a dog bone assembly it will be much more prone to wear and tear

[Lunchboxer]

Originally Posted by wyattburp

Hey Lunchboxer!

I'm still not sure how or why you're going through drive cups like you are...I am all stock in that area and even running a brushless system, I'm getting no wear at all on mine.... Do you have some binding going on or something? Maybe I'm just confused...

Hi Wyattburp,

Good to see you here.. I guess with the locked center diff, it is putting quite a bit of stress on the rear drivecup.. also, I extend the links a little bit to gain some ground clearance, so the angle is probably a little bit more than stock..

Also running the bigger tires.. mine is not a crawler.. so it is setup to run fairly quickly.. and I do jumps and stuff.. that's probably adding a lot of stress to the drivetrain too..

No binding or anything..

[wyattburp]

Hmmm...Here's my setup, and I haven't experienced any wear at all...

GTB ESC with 5.5 motor (too much power, but fun as hell...)
HPI Yokohama tires and 2.2 aluminum beadlock wheels (JPS Pro)
I've extended my wheelbase to about 8.5-9 inches...
I'm still using the stock center diff, locked
Both front and rear axles are locked
Right now I'm using Tobee Craft universals, but also have used TA03 dogbones...they're about the same length (2")

I'm trying to keep my TLT as versatle as possible. A little rock crawling and a little bashing in the backyard.

I'll get some pics up tonight so you can see my setup. I would think with the power I have in my little beast, I would see wear a lot quicker than you...but I haven't....

[Lunchboxer]

Sounds good.. remember to post some pics!! How do you like those Tobee craft universal!? Maybe I need to look into those. Are they rebuildable??

[wyattburp]

Here's a few pics...I'm still waiting for a bunch of aluminum parts I ordered to finish off my vision...It'll be a bling machine for sure Aluminum bumpers, servo plates and cantilevers. Then it's on to the body. I'm a huge VW fan, so I'm probably gonna pick up the HPI bug body from Tower.

[Lunchboxer]

That looks really good! My next up for my TLT is also the aluminum cantilever set, and the aluminum steering knuckles (that you have already!)

What kind of shocks are you running? As I am interested in getting better shocks for my TLT as well!

[rocpede]

nice looking tlt and those shock look like t-maxx shock

[Lunchboxer]

How much are those aluminum wheels?! Beadlock is nice!

[wyattburp]

The shocks are 1.32" Associated, from a RC10GT/T4. The beadlocks ran me $150 for all 4....a little spendy, but they are very well made and make me smile everytime I look at them

I busted one of my steering ball connectors so I'll try to get some video once my replacement part shows up in the mail.

[Lunchboxer]

Originally Posted by wyattburp

The shocks are 1.32" Associated, from a RC10GT/T4. The beadlocks ran me $150 for all 4....a little spendy, but they are very well made and make me smile everytime I look at them

I busted one of my steering ball connectors so I'll try to get some video once my replacement part shows up in the mail.

Man, $150.. that's a little bit too much for me to spend on a set of wheel.. I think I'd get something else before I spend $150 on the wheel.. there's a lot of other stuff I want to get, ha ha!!

Yeah, do some video when you got a chance!!