Stick style, TLT build up I got the axles ordered up here is the plan. Go with a stick style build up. I'm not exactly sure how this is going to work with the torque twist. However, with the rotating design of the stick I'm sure I can lock most of it out with the rear shock. It's just the front I'm a little worried about. However, the advantage of unsprung weight should help. Oh well, only one way to find out if this design will work properly.:lol: Build up: Stealth Trans Maxx drive shafts Behind the axle steering 2 short shocks Delrin skid and links Masher 2k tires 55t and esc or Mamba Revolver setup Parma c10 body 4 steer or front burn Buildup sketches coming soon |
here is a link to TC building a stick shafty i think and i hope this will help rich http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/traxxas-crawlers/34081-something-different-2-2-maxx.html |
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actually, Sean " hackster " of ORCRC.com has already built one. |
Will Jim be aiding in the build of this build - up ? |
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that sounds like a sweeeeet idea. Ever since I saw that stick chassis from thecrawlerstore I always wanted one, we need some pics man! |
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Again, truely sorry I am usually so well behaved I dont know what came over me. Chad- |
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Newbs... :roll: |
I'm deciding how I should go about building this rig. My original plan was to build a tub style chassis to house the trans. But, I can't really see and great advantage as compared to a normal 4link. Plus I don't know that I could make the tub chassis rigid enough to reduce twisting. I could use a stick but the trans would have to hang below or way above. Now I've got a wild idea to mount the trans up side down on top of the front axle. I'm thinking for better balance and COG. Then running the trans output to a small transfer case up high in the chassis. Doing so would allow the motor and gearbox to rest on the front axle and I could run the drive shafts really high for clearance without screwing with the COG to much. I could also make the chassis just be a tube like a stick. However, I would be adding the weight of the tiny transfer case and driveshaft to the chassis. So I don't know that there would be any advantage at all. The weight would be about equal with the batterys in back and the motor/gearbox in front. I could use wheel weights to change the balence up a little. I still don't have my axles yet but when I do I can start mocking things up, to see if this idea will work. |
Your "IDEA" of putting the motor on the front axle works extreeeemly well on my spec txt nn. A picture is in the float st thread if you want to check it out. |
Axles and and stuff from Tower came today. I'm almost considering this setup. Not exactly like this, the motor maybe rotated up a little. But, it is hard to mock this up for pics. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...r/2d4961c2.jpg I would have to connect the motor to the front axle with brackets. Which would allow for zero torque twist up front. I could lock the twist out with the stick style suspension in the rear. The only disadvantage I see is the front driveshafts clearance is reduced. The rear shaft would need a carrier bearing. Since the shaft is so spread out for the back it would allow me to possibly create some kind of rear disconnect for front dig. I could also run the rear shaft at about any angle possible to gain rear clearance. |
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79.99 Shipped to my door for the axles. Bearings $20.50 Traxxas rod ends $3.50 Maxx outdrives I stole from a friend when he upgraded to CVD's Got the Trans from ebay about 3 years ago in a pile of parts. |
Hell for $79 you could have got a complete kit with suspension stays ans lots of extra screws from HobbyPeople.net. I thought about purchasing the pieces individually but figured the price it would cost I might as well get the whole kit. |
Yeah, thats what I did I bought the whole kit. |
You're crazy man.Where do you get these ideas?Hope it works! |
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