Evader Transmission- pictures

[Zuki Tyler]

This came off ebay, it is your basic Evader ST (there's a difference between BX and ST).

It was super easy to mount, two holes in the side of the chassis.

The Maxx yokes had to be bored out, to fit over the outdrives, stealth style.





After playing with custom transmissions for 4 months or so, I definitely have to say this is the way to go... much less hassle.

I did get sloppy with my precision machining of the Maxx yokes (read: dremel tool and shakey hand) and now the rear one rubs the spur. But that will get fixed once I place an order to Tower.

With the Evader trans. and 65t lathe motor, there is plenty of torque and wheelspeed with the stock 20T pinion and 88T spur, but it is too much speed for my tastes, I'm going to stick a smaller pinion on it.

[murdock]

you havent had any problems running it like this?

this picture clears up alot of Q's.

[Zuki Tyler]

The spur rubs on the rear output, since it wobbles. I did it pretty fast and sloppy, just to get the truck running again, after quite some down time.

[CustomFabber13]

What holes did you use to mount the tranny? The ones on the bottom or the upper brace mounts? I have an Evader and I'm trying to get some TLT axles for my first crawler.

[Zuki Tyler]

I just drilled two holes in the stock chassis plate.

I would post pictures better pictures of the mount, but I've cut all the excess aluminum from the chassis plates, so a picture wouldn't be a great guide as where to put the holes.

All that I did was put the transmission as low as possible in the chassis, then I measured the distance between the mounting holes, marked, and drilled...it was a total of a 5 minute operation.

I've also cleaned up the maxx yokes, so that they mount flush and square on the outdrives, it's nice to have a truck that doesn't vibrate constantly now!

[Trike Kid]

What's the diffrence BX to ST? Your trans doesn't look diffrent than the one in my now dead BX.

[bugman72]

I don't think that there's any difference between the two trannies. I know that there is absolutely no difference between the electric version of the ST and the nitro version, except for the nitro's gears are metal. The only differece that I could think of between the ST and BX would be gearing. I seriously doubt that there's any diffence with that either, as I don't see Duratrax doing that.

I'm glad that you went through with this. I've been debating on whether to go with an Evader tranny for a while now. The trannies are lighter, smaller, and CHEAPER than a Stampede. One question...did you replace the tranny gears with the metal ones or at least the idler gear?

[CustomFabber13]

Do you just stick the yokes on the outdrives? I was thinking of boring a new hold for the drive pin to go through, but if you don't have to all the better

EDIT: I think the BX tranny is a little shorter and geared different, but I could be wrong.

EDITx2: I checked tower and both cases appear to have te same number so I think they are the same. DOnt hold em to it though.

[Zuki Tyler]

Originally Posted by Trike Kid

What's the diffrence BX to ST? Your trans doesn't look diffrent than the one in my now dead BX.

Gearing...If I recall correctly, the BX had a 22T pinion, with a 80T spur, while the ST has a 20T pinion, with a 88T spur.

Originally Posted by bugman72

I'm glad that you went through with this. I've been debating on whether to go with an Evader tranny for a while now. The trannies are lighter, smaller, and CHEAPER than a Stampede. One question...did you replace the tranny gears with the metal ones or at least the idler gear?

This transmission was definitely cheaper. I left all the stock plastic gears in place for now. If they break, I'll upgrade. I don't compete with the truck, so it doesn't need to be bullet proof.

Originally Posted by CustomFabber13

Do you just stick the yokes on the outdrives? I was thinking of boring a new hold for the drive pin to go through, but if you don't have to all the better :smile:

EDIT: I think the BX tranny is a little shorter and geared different, but I could be wrong.

EDITx2: I checked tower and both cases appear to have te same number so I think they are the same. DOnt hold em to it though.

I had to drill/machine (dremel) the yokes, so that they fit over the outdrives. I didn't drill a new hole in the outdrive, since the long machine screws that come with the kit- the ones that "look" like they are hardened (they're not) fit in the slots. However, I ran into some issues with the yoke walking off the outdrive. The nylon Maxx yoke seems to be too soft to feasibly use a set screw, so I just used a couple drops of super glue ot hold the yoke on- The screw drives the shaft, the glue holds the yoke onto the outdrive.

The two transmissions are identical, with minor differences in gearing from the factory. If you are piecing together a transmission off of Tower (~$60) it doesn't matter either way, but if you buy one complete off ebay, the ST has lower gearing.

[bugman72]

But, the internal gearing of each tranny (BX and ST) should be the same. Spur and pinion gears are easily changed.

I'm looking at a couple of Evader trannies on Ebay right now. Hopefully I can score one for cheap to use on my torsion stick.

[oIIIIIo]

FYI, I run an Evader ST as a racing/bashing truck and run an Associated Stealth (T4) tranny in one of my crawlers and a Losi XXX-T tranny in my other crawler so I have first hand experience with all three. While the Evader tranny design is very similar to the Stealth and the Losi, the quality is noticeably lower. While I wouldn't hesitate to try the Evader tranny in a crawler, I would definitely not buy a new one. They can be had on eBay very cheaply - sometimes as little as $10. For that price, it's worth a try.

[bugman72]

I had an Evader ST Pro for a while right after they came out. Decent truck, but definitely of a lesser quality than my friend's MF2 XXX-T. From what I read when I had the truck, the diff and the idler gear are the two weakest points in the tranny. I had a hard time in getting my diff set right and I was only using a P2K2 Pro motor. Of course, with the diff full of JB Weld, I don't think it will make much of a difference Add an aluminum idler gear, and I think you could have a very good crawler tranny for cheap.

[Zuki Tyler]

Pictures:


The flush-er fitting yokes
You can also notice the clocking of the motor in this picture.


The two holes drilled in the chassis plate.
The holes were drilled at an angle, to help out on the front driveshaft angle.
Please ignore the sloppy cut job on the chassis, I did it quick with a 4.5" cut-off wheel. Not exactly a precision tool.

While the quality of the transmission may be lower...it was dirt cheap on ebay. I'm not going to pay $50 for a used stampede, or $80 for a new one.

The Evader has held up thus far, and if it was cooler out, I'm sure there would be twice as many hours on it, but we'll see.

[oIIIIIo]

From the look of the chassis in that last pic it might be a little late to make this suggestion, but you might find the chassis works better if you leave it at stock width and just open up the slot for the spur gear. It keeps the outdrives more centered for better driveline angles and reduces binding in your upper links.

Here's a couple pics of my first crawler using the stock (slightly modded) chassis plates and a stealth tranny (similar in size & shape to the Evader).

[Double J]

oIIIIIo - yours are pretty. Do you want to share how you mounted the yokes to the tranny?

[TLTCrawlin]

he did, lol, stub axle, cut, and drilled through the grub hole and out the other side. then put a pin in it, and jb weld the rest so it doesnt get out, thats what im doing too, its cheaper too!

Losi XXX laydown chassis prototype

[Zuki Tyler]

From the look of the chassis in that last pic it might be a little late to make this suggestion, but you might find the chassis works better if you leave it at stock width and just open up the slot for the spur gear. It keeps the outdrives more centered for better driveline angles and reduces binding in your upper links

A new chassis made out of lexan is in the works... very little time was put into the stocks chassis, I just wanted to run the thing after it was down for so long.

[oIIIIIo]

Originally Posted by Double J

oIIIIIo - yours are pretty. Do you want to share how you mounted the yokes to the tranny?

The link ClodCrawlin posted above was how I mounted Stampede yokes on a Losi tranny. On the one above, I used T-Maxx yokes on an Associated T4 Stealth tranny. The outdrives on the Losi have a much larger diameter than the Stealth, so mounting Maxx yokes was not practical - besides, I wanted to try something different.

On the one above, I removed the outdrives from the tranny then shortened them by about 1/4"-3/8". Then I drilled out the center of the T-Maxx yokes to the same diameter as the outdrives and slide them over the cut down outdrives. Then using a spring-loaded center punch, I marked where the holes for the cross pin line up on the outdrive. Then remove the yokes and drill a hole through the outdrive for the T-Maxx cross pin. Put the yoke back on, pin it and you're done.

One good tip for modding outdrives: They are extremely hard steel and very hard to cut/drill. If you heat the end of them first with a propane torch until they start to turn orange, they will be much, much easier to cut/drill.