RCCrawler Forums

run2jeepn · 07-21-2006, 07:41 PM

Well while waiting on some parts and other things. I made up another Chassis for my next Build. Well I got all this done in less then an hour. I'm calling it "Skinny" The chassis is only 4.5in wide. I will have to take couple inches out down the middle of the HPI Jeep Body. The was to make something more Rock Freindly but still look like a Jeep. It should make a Nice Tuber for Comps. With the right link and shock set up it will have a low COG also. Here are some pic's I should have it weld about the same time my other one gets welded. If you have any input lets hear it. Everything you see in the Pic is what I used to make my Chassis. A Vise, and Bolt cutters. Oh and the Chassis is made from 3/16th Solid Rod.

Kamikaze · 07-21-2006, 07:50 PM

why not use 3/16 brake line, much lighter, I'm not being an a$$ just asking, is solid more avalable to you??? Not meaning to take away from the great chassis you've got there. I really like it.

Gula · 07-21-2006, 07:59 PM

I think it's cheaper right? But besides that how do you plan on connecting the rods? welding or brazing? is there really that much of a difference between solid or tube in weight. oh yeah can you braze solid?
Last but not least it looks cool.

run2jeepn · 07-21-2006, 08:03 PM

I use Solid for its strength and it's half the price. But you only talking a few dollars difference. I tested a Brazed tube joint agaist a solid mig welded joint. Guess which won. Sides to me Mig it easier and cheaper.

Kamikaze · 07-21-2006, 08:05 PM

Ok $5.00 for brake line, $4.50 for solid. Man I need that can of Coke

JohnRobHolmes · 07-21-2006, 08:12 PM

A properly brazed joint should be much stronger than a welded joint. The failure that I have had was never at the joint- it was beside the joints.

run2jeepn · 07-21-2006, 08:15 PM

Everyone has there own way. I'm not saying one is better then tyhe other. I like the fact that I can throw mine 20 feet or stand on it without a worry. But if you build one out of 3/16 tube you have to have alot of braces. Which adds weight. Here are some better pic's. The axle in the front is stock width. The rear is the widened one.

Kamikaze · 07-21-2006, 08:22 PM

Alot of braces????? Were talking r/c cars here. If you can destroy a tube chassis of any kind than you are one hell of a balls to the wall driver.

run2jeepn · 07-21-2006, 08:27 PM

Here a pic as it sits inside the body. You can see how much I have to cut out down the center.

Kamikaze · 07-21-2006, 08:35 PM

I like it, very narrow! Schweet You posted while I was posting so you answered me before I asked?!?

TMXONR · 07-21-2006, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kamikaze

Ok $5.00 for brake line, $4.50 for solid. Man I need that can of Coke

Man, where are you buying you stuff at. I get my solid rod for $1.15 per 3ft rod for 5/32" and $1.79 for 3/16"

run2jeepn · 07-21-2006, 10:08 PM

I bought 44ft for 15 bucks. Enough to do at least 2 crawlers. Maybe 3....

TMXONR · 07-21-2006, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by run2jeepn

I bought 44ft for 15 bucks. Enough to do at least 2 crawlers. Maybe 3....

Whats real bad is that Home Depot has alum sheets that are like 2ft by 2ft or something close for 20 bucks. I have a friend who dragraces, and he bought a 4ft by 10ft sheet of alum for 40 bucks......O yea nice chassis.

run2jeepn · 07-22-2006, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnrobholmes

A properly brazed joint should be much stronger than a welded joint. The failure that I have had was never at the joint- it was beside the joints.

I have brazed things in the past. Do get me wrong I wasn't very good at it. So you maybe right. I just don't see how brazing it stronger then a Mig Weld. I don't see how it gets hot enough to melt whats around it to become one part like mig welding does. I'm not trying to start anything here either. No hard feelings. There is more then one way to skin a cat. I just don't see Body Shops Brazing cars back together. To each there own thou

I'm sure they both workout about the same.

Oh a tubed rig should be about half the weight of a solid rod rig. Thats another reason way I made this one Skinny. But I wanted it to still look like a Jeep Buggy. More of a 1:1 One Seat comp rig. It should turn out better cool. I hope.

JohnRobHolmes · 07-22-2006, 12:40 PM

body shops dont braze because of the slow speed and cost of filler material.

The braze does not melt the material around it, but it grabs on very well and fills the gaps without affecting the strength of the steel. Welding melts the steel and weakens it around the weld. Both would work just fine for what we do, to each his own. I prefer brazing because I have a torch and no welder. If I had a welder I would probably weld- it is much quicker.

run2jeepn · 07-22-2006, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnrobholmes

body shops dont braze because of the slow speed and cost of filler material.

The braze does not melt the material around it, but it grabs on very well and fills the gaps without affecting the strength of the steel. Welding melts the steel and weakens it around the weld. Both would work just fine for what we do, to each his own. I prefer brazing because I have a torch and no welder. If I had a welder I would probably weld- it is much quicker.

Thats cool. Maybe if I get all my stuff sold. I can go Brushless

trickedoutTLT06 · 07-22-2006, 10:10 PM

c'mon dude i wanna see some work on Ramrod, i just started a build to..it will be updated every day

e-maxxcrawl · 07-24-2006, 04:56 PM

mig is better if you braze you have the heat consitrated longer also resulting in weaker material and with a mig its cleaner faster and ijust like it more and sweet chassie i cant wait o get started on mine

Kamikaze · 07-24-2006, 05:29 PM

you do have the part heated longer, but the metal is only anneled at a higher temperature than would be reached during the use of a proper brazing tecnique, a temperature that with mig welding would be reached very quickly though only for a short duration but was reached none the less. The max temp is responsible for the anneling, not the duration.

e-maxxcrawl · 07-25-2006, 12:11 PM

learn somthing new every day
i do hate brazing parts that have to be close together because i usualy have the heat on a little to long and drop a joint

07-21-2006, 07:41 PM	#1
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Project Skinny Well while waiting on some parts and other things. I made up another Chassis for my next Build. Well I got all this done in less then an hour. I'm calling it "Skinny" The chassis is only 4.5in wide. I will have to take couple inches out down the middle of the HPI Jeep Body. The was to make something more Rock Freindly but still look like a Jeep. It should make a Nice Tuber for Comps. With the right link and shock set up it will have a low COG also. Here are some pic's I should have it weld about the same time my other one gets welded. If you have any input lets hear it. Everything you see in the Pic is what I used to make my Chassis. A Vise, and Bolt cutters. Oh and the Chassis is made from 3/16th Solid Rod. Attached Images

07-21-2006, 08:03 PM	#4
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	I use Solid for its strength and it's half the price. But you only talking a few dollars difference. I tested a Brazed tube joint agaist a solid mig welded joint. Guess which won. Sides to me Mig it easier and cheaper. Last edited by run2jeepn; 07-21-2006 at 08:06 PM.

07-21-2006, 08:15 PM	#7
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Everyone has there own way. I'm not saying one is better then tyhe other. I like the fact that I can throw mine 20 feet or stand on it without a worry. But if you build one out of 3/16 tube you have to have alot of braces. Which adds weight. Here are some better pic's. The axle in the front is stock width. The rear is the widened one. Attached Images

07-21-2006, 08:27 PM	#9
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Here a pic as it sits inside the body. You can see how much I have to cut out down the center. Attached Images

07-21-2006, 08:35 PM	#10
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	I like it, very narrow! Schweet You posted while I was posting so you answered me before I asked?!? Last edited by Kamikaze; 07-21-2006 at 09:11 PM.

07-21-2006, 07:50 PM	#2
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	why not use 3/16 brake line, much lighter, I'm not being an a$$ just asking, is solid more avalable to you??? Not meaning to take away from the great chassis you've got there. I really like it.

07-21-2006, 07:59 PM	#3
Gula I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Here Posts: 2,327	I think it's cheaper right? But besides that how do you plan on connecting the rods? welding or brazing? is there really that much of a difference between solid or tube in weight. oh yeah can you braze solid? Last but not least it looks cool.

07-21-2006, 08:05 PM	#5
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	Ok $5.00 for brake line, $4.50 for solid. Man I need that can of Coke

07-21-2006, 08:12 PM	#6
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	A properly brazed joint should be much stronger than a welded joint. The failure that I have had was never at the joint- it was beside the joints.

07-21-2006, 08:22 PM	#8
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	Alot of braces????? Were talking r/c cars here. If you can destroy a tube chassis of any kind than you are one hell of a balls to the wall driver.

07-21-2006, 10:08 PM	#12
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	I bought 44ft for 15 bucks. Enough to do at least 2 crawlers. Maybe 3....

07-22-2006, 12:40 PM	#15
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	body shops dont braze because of the slow speed and cost of filler material. The braze does not melt the material around it, but it grabs on very well and fills the gaps without affecting the strength of the steel. Welding melts the steel and weakens it around the weld. Both would work just fine for what we do, to each his own. I prefer brazing because I have a torch and no welder. If I had a welder I would probably weld- it is much quicker.

07-22-2006, 10:10 PM	#17
trickedoutTLT06 RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Aroostook county Posts: 1,271	c'mon dude i wanna see some work on Ramrod, i just started a build to..it will be updated every day

07-24-2006, 04:56 PM	#18
e-maxxcrawl Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Upland Posts: 79	mig is better if you braze you have the heat consitrated longer also resulting in weaker material and with a mig its cleaner faster and ijust like it more and sweet chassie i cant wait o get started on mine

07-24-2006, 05:29 PM	#19
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	you do have the part heated longer, but the metal is only anneled at a higher temperature than would be reached during the use of a proper brazing tecnique, a temperature that with mig welding would be reached very quickly though only for a short duration but was reached none the less. The max temp is responsible for the anneling, not the duration.

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07-25-2006, 12:11 PM	#20
e-maxxcrawl Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Upland Posts: 79	learn somthing new every day i do hate brazing parts that have to be close together because i usualy have the heat on a little to long and drop a joint

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