how mutch time do you have in a rig like that.total build time?

It took me about 2 days, so maybe around 25 hours for the chassis. I then went back and redesigned the bottom half which took probably 8 hours start to finish. Probably another hour doing the links and making sure everything flexed without getting into a bind. Probably another hour to move the shocks around and swap out springs getting it to where it felt right. Drive shafts and rear drive shaft disconnect probably took an hour and a half or so. And then mounting electronics and running wires was probably 30 minutes.
All in all I wouldn't be suprised if there was about 35-40 hours into it.
For the most part it is done but I'm sure I'll play with the spring rates and mounting positions some more to dial it in.
I'm a little suprised at the flex, I didnt think it would flex as good. It can easily get a tire in the fenders. Very well balanced too. The delrin skid is amazing. I can drag the belly over alot of stuff that should stop it. Just give it a little of the go pedal :twisted:

Ok, so I spent about 5 hours yesterday rebuilding my front dig....and I think I'm gonna throw that idea out the window. I'm sticking with the cable and not going to do any linkage and that was causing a problem. I was using the "socket to ya" method but the clearences didn't allow for a spring without creating too much drag and stoping the servo. Too bad I cut up a good end wrench, whoops :-P
I'm going to go back to the original design, which worked but didn't lock the real axle up, and then use some of miniwheelers design to lock the rear axle up. I think this should work, I've drawn it out about 8 times since I've been here at work :lol:
I also splurged and got a dremmel yesterday...it's only about 10x's better then the old one back home and about 100x's better then the battery one I have up here. Came with all kinds of cool goodies too :)
If I'm not to tired from work tonight I might try this new idea on the rear disconnect out and get some pictures if it works, cross your fingers "thumbsup"

WOW man that look hella close to ur real truck i would of never guessed it would of been that good man and i really like the color of kepp up the good work "thumbsup"

looks very good :) nice clean job!

I was wondering what that spring was for?? How does it work and why is it needed?
Thanks

wow, nice build!8)

That is for my disconnect to do front digs.
If you look above the spring, you can see the cable that I use to pull the female shaft back over the rear male shaft to disconnect the two and put the rear axle in neutral. The female shaft pushes compress that spring so when I let the servo release the cable, the spring pushes the female shaft back over the forward male shaft and allows the rear axle to be under power again.

I am in the process of fixing some problems that I encountered with that setup and trying to make it work a little better right now. I ended up supergluing and ruining a yoke but luckily I already had some spares ordered :roll:. Should be here any day now.
This new setup should work better :)

I forgot I had these pics. This is how my trans is locked. 8)

where did you get that? I want one.8)

Juggsterr machined it for me. He originally was making them for the stealth I believe but I sent him my xxt tranny and he worked one up for it. Way cool little piece and worth the money.

I love this clean build! Oh, and your FJ is cool too.:lol: :lol:

JK Nice build"thumbsup"

Drool, i really like it.

Me thinks i need an FJ

Thanks guys!

I think everyone needs a FJ...I also think I need about 30 of em :lol:
I just got my goodies in the mail, I can't wait to get done with class today. Plan on getting the little FJ running today "thumbsup"
The big FJ is down right now :-(

Got the rear disconnect all done up. Works good too "thumbsup"
Sorry for the blurry pics, I think this camera has finally taken a dump.
The slider is based of miniwheeler's design and then I used my original cable idea.
I swapped to some shorter springs in the rear to set the shocks up more vertical and allow for more droop. Also triangulated the lower links a tad and it seems to have helped a bunch with the flex steer. Did the same with the front along with moved the lower links up high up on the axle side. This helped with the front raising when trying to climb a obstacle. There just isn't enough room in the front to make the links long enough. The frame side of the lower links really needs to be dropped 1/4" but thats not possible without screwing up the smooth belly.
I up pulling out a front link out of its rod end and that caused the whole front end to collapse while crawling over the couch. I think I'm going to need to go in and re design the front links and lengthen the uppers.

The semester just started and already seems like its going to suck but I'm going to get this thing out and go wheeling once the weather clears up. These mashers are stiiickyyyy, I can't wait to try to climb some rocks :twisted:

wow nice build it looks awsome "thumbsup"

Nice rig man!!!!"thumbsup"

Instead of the crosby why don't you use nico press sleaves? It would give it a cleaner look.

looks good!

a few updates for the big pig ;-)

I have a nice spot that is close to my apt, campus, and work so it's a win win situation for me :-P It is a great little place with tons of rocks and millions of obstacles.
Since I've last posted in this thread, I have switched from mashers to lizzards. At first the lizzards were not doing it for me but I made some adjustments and now they work killer for me. Check out this thread for more info regarding the tires.... http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...t=72368&page=5

I have also rebuilt my links. I originally was running stock tlt rod ends on 4-40 rod sheathed in some thin aluminum rod that I had left over from my nylint 4 link. I knew it wouldn't last but it was good for dialing the suspension in. The rebuilt links include 3/16" brakeline with 1/8" solid rod in the center and 4-40 rod brazed on the ends using traxxas rod ends. Super beefy this time :twisted:

I also had some trouble with the stock tlt servo mounts only using 1 screw per side. Ended up cracking the side mounts on the servo so I redid them and drilled out the mounts to use 4 screws like the servo was meant to be held on with. Worked great except the screw that holds the servo mounts to the servo plate did not go as far into the plastic mount because of the new bottom screw. This lead to the screw pulling out and letting the servo flail around like a angry 3 year old. Currently to fix this, I am using 4 tlt plastic servo mounts, 2 per side. The front will mount like usual with 1 screw from the bottom to hold it to the plate and then 2 screws to hold the servo to it. There will also be 1 screw that ties the front and rear servo posts together along with them being glues together. The rear post will also be screw down to the plate. I can't see there being anymore problems with this new over kill design :lol:

With some other preventative upgrades, I upgraded to RCP's mini birfs (cvd's) up front and some aluminum knuckles. Once RCP comes out with their clockable knuckles for the front I will be getting some of those.

And for the really cool new upgrade news....I'm going BRUSHLESS!!!!! :twisted:
Have a mamba max on the way and will be using Johns new crawlmaster motor to burn some rubber.

While I'm waiting on the brushless stuff to arrive, I figured I would also take the time to clean up the chassis and skins since almost all the paint on the upper cage has been ground off and one skin was cracked into a few pieces. The new skins are the same but I also added the skull from the 1:1 rig which came out really nice and the chassis is currently in my mini paint booth and looks great so far.

enough with the chit chat...onto some pics
these are with my phone but I'll get some better ones once everything is put back together