RCCrawler Forums

JeepDriver · 02-10-2005, 06:32 PM

Hi,
I just purchased a Max Climber and was reading the sticky post on making a TLT a better crawler. If I were to add the Tmaxx turnbuckles do I need to change the driveshafts at all? Ifd the wheelbase is extended is there a need to make any other changes?

Thanks!

fuzzhead · 02-10-2005, 08:32 PM

yes you would need different shafts. just keep looking around and reading you have done good so far by finding out how to stretch.

KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!!

Plays_with_Toys · 02-10-2005, 10:06 PM

New driveshafts are needed. I am pretty sure I covered that in the FAQ. There's a few ways to convert to different shafts using the stock gearbox, or you can swap in something like a Stampede tranny.

JeepDriver · 02-11-2005, 05:50 AM

Play With Toys

I went back and read the FAQ again and I am still not seeing any specifics on shafts. I am getting ready to order parts so I'd like to know what I need. For now I will not be going with a pede tranny but would like to extend the wheel base. Do I need sliders from a pede/rustler or from a Tmaxx? Or is there some other mod to the stock shafts when extending wheelbase?

Thanks again for the FAQ.

Mike

pedesrule · 02-11-2005, 06:14 AM

there are several options you can do. First off you could keep dogbones and just find some longer ones on tower. Theres loads and loads of them on there so finding exactly what you want should be a problem. Or you could go to slider shafts. Thats what i would recommend if you really wanna punish your rig. With dogbones theres always a chance of the dogbone fallin out (and believe me they aint easy to find) but with sliders even if they do come apart they dont go anywhere. Also the sliders dont bind like dogbones can and they definatly arent as picky about what angle they have to be at.

i have a post in the sticky about using pede shafts on a stock tranny buts its a pretty hard mod.

JeepDriver · 02-11-2005, 06:25 AM

Thanks Pedesrule. I read the whole post this time and I see what you are talking about. Thanks for the info.

Mike

thefordmccord · 02-11-2005, 04:50 PM

Here is everything that I used on my TLT plus some Associated shocks from a GT. The wheelbase is 11.5" and the width from outside of tire is 11.25" It is the easiest way to go...

Traxxas Turnbuckles 96mm T-Maxx (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSP04&P=7

Traxxas Turnbuckles Front 108mm T-Maxx 2.5 (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDDW0&P=7

HPI Dogbones RS4 MT
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM844&P=7

HPI Cup Joint 5x10x18mm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBSZ3&P=M

HPI Set Screw M3x4mm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPD15&P=M

Ofna Wheel 2.2" Truck Chrome RTR (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXCAN2&P=

microgoat · 02-13-2005, 02:35 PM

extending the driveshafts is easy. just cut the stock dogbones in half, file a flat spot about 1/8 wide, 1/16 from the end of the shaft. then get yerself a foot of 3/16 brake line (about 2 bucks at NAPA) and 4 3/16 airplane wheel collars at the LHS. cut the brake line to the length you need and file or Dremel a flat spot on the line, about 1/16 from the end. the flat spot on the brake line should be deep enough to go thru the wall of the tubing. then slide your wheel collar over the end of the brake line, making sure to line up the flat spot with the set screw. use blue Loctite to glue everything together. your cut-up dogbones will slide right into the brake line, and once the set screw is in place you'll have a sweet custom driveshaft. if you want to spiff it up, use some brass or aluminum tube to cover the wheel collars and make the shaft look all beefy.

these driveshafts are stronger than the TLT's aluminum gears (found that out the hard way). and you could make one 36 inches long!

JeepDriver · 02-28-2005, 10:27 AM

FordMcCord,
Did you have to purchase 4 of these ?

HPI Cup Joint 5x10x18mm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXBSZ3&P=M

Mike

jwrape · 02-28-2005, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microgoat

extending the driveshafts is easy. just cut the stock dogbones in half, file a flat spot about 1/8 wide, 1/16 from the end of the shaft. then get yerself a foot of 3/16 brake line (about 2 bucks at NAPA) and 4 3/16 airplane wheel collars at the LHS. cut the brake line to the length you need and file or Dremel a flat spot on the line, about 1/16 from the end. the flat spot on the brake line should be deep enough to go thru the wall of the tubing. then slide your wheel collar over the end of the brake line, making sure to line up the flat spot with the set screw. use blue Loctite to glue everything together. your cut-up dogbones will slide right into the brake line, and once the set screw is in place you'll have a sweet custom driveshaft. if you want to spiff it up, use some brass or aluminum tube to cover the wheel collars and make the shaft look all beefy.

these driveshafts are stronger than the TLT's aluminum gears (found that out the hard way). and you could make one 36 inches long!

I did something similar when i cut down one of my LONG dogbones... The copper tube that the cantilevers mount on is the perfect size for the cut dog bone to slid into and a little JB weld and you have a extended or shorted shafts.

thefordmccord · 02-28-2005, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepDriver

FordMcCord,
Did you have to purchase 4 of these ?

HPI Cup Joint 5x10x18mm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXBSZ3&P=M

Mike

No, you only need two of them.

JeepDriver · 03-01-2005, 05:29 AM

Thanks for the reply. I spent some time working on it last night and decided to cut the dogbones and then sleeve them with brake line. I haven't finished the links yet so I haven't set the length of the shaft. I bought 3/16 brake line and 6/32 threaded rod to make the links. I cut the brake line then ream it out slightly with a 9/64 bit and the threaded rod fits very snuggly. I also bought Traxxas ball ends for the links. I am aiming for about an 11" wheelbase with Swamp Dawgs and Dodge Power Wagon body.

I'll take some pics when I get the chassis sorted.

Mike

Frkan · 03-06-2005, 10:16 AM

hey fordmaccord, How are those ofna wheels working? i was thinking of getting some of those for my tlt.

thefordmccord · 03-06-2005, 10:27 AM

The ofna wheels rock! Lots of width with no wheel spacers! I am getting ready to redo the whole truck though. I just purchased this truck here on ebay to rape for parts. I'm having way to much trouble with the belt, and my chain drive idea would be a plain bitch to do.

Frkan · 03-06-2005, 01:34 PM

sweet
thanks

JeepDriver · 03-06-2005, 03:38 PM

Well I got it extended.

I used 3/16 brake line and 6/32 threaded rod to make my links. I extended the wheelbase to 11". For driveshafts I cut the dogbones in half and sleeved them with brake line. I used my mig welder to weld the dogbone into the brake line. I used the longer of the original links to attach to the canitlever arms so I could still use the stock suspension. Seems to work fine so far.

I'll try to get some pics.

Mike.

microgoat · 03-06-2005, 09:12 PM

i don't know about you guys, but i found the stock springs are way too soft when using extended links. as soon as you give it even a little gas, it leans over like a drunk and hangs there til you go into reverse. the stock shocks look nice, and they are approximately to scale, but the springs are far too weak. get some 1/10 scale shocks and the weakest springs you can find (Losi white or yellow)

KnutKase · 09-07-2008, 02:26 PM

Having similar problems with extended Goliath, used longer dogbones (I forget now where they are from) but I am not happy with them wanting to bind at full droop. How hard would it be to switch to sliders, what parts would I need... And of course it wants to lean over under throttle, it still has stock shocks (laydown mounts) with cantilevers attached to clamps on custom lower links... I am considering making up some leaf springs for it, about 12" or so in length (made out of a broken chain-saw pull cord recoil spring) that would be mounted (length-wise) to the chassis on each side with a pivot in the middle and a mount at each end to the axles. In theory this should encourage articulation, reduce chassis twist under throttle, and only slightly change the suspensions ability to absorb bumps... What do you think?

backtrailzracer · 09-07-2008, 07:10 PM

i dont know how you got your axles set up but moving the link mount to the back of the axle is one of the best things you can do also shaving the bottom of the case makes a huge diffrance

crawl rookie · 09-08-2008, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KnutKase

Having similar problems with extended Goliath, used longer dogbones (I forget now where they are from) but I am not happy with them wanting to bind at full droop. How hard would it be to switch to sliders, what parts would I need... And of course it wants to lean over under throttle, it still has stock shocks (laydown mounts) with cantilevers attached to clamps on custom lower links... I am considering making up some leaf springs for it, about 12" or so in length (made out of a broken chain-saw pull cord recoil spring) that would be mounted (length-wise) to the chassis on each side with a pivot in the middle and a mount at each end to the axles. In theory this should encourage articulation, reduce chassis twist under throttle, and only slightly change the suspensions ability to absorb bumps... What do you think?

HOLY SHIT, Check the date on the thread!!!

02-10-2005, 06:32 PM	#1
JeepDriver Newbie Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Concord Posts: 12	Stretching Wheelbase ???? Hi, I just purchased a Max Climber and was reading the sticky post on making a TLT a better crawler. If I were to add the Tmaxx turnbuckles do I need to change the driveshafts at all? Ifd the wheelbase is extended is there a need to make any other changes? Thanks!

02-11-2005, 04:50 PM	#7
thefordmccord Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Carlisle, KY Posts: 327	Here is everything that I used on my TLT plus some Associated shocks from a GT. The wheelbase is 11.5" and the width from outside of tire is 11.25" It is the easiest way to go... Traxxas Turnbuckles 96mm T-Maxx (2) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSP04&P=7 Traxxas Turnbuckles Front 108mm T-Maxx 2.5 (2) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDDW0&P=7 HPI Dogbones RS4 MT http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM844&P=7 HPI Cup Joint 5x10x18mm http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBSZ3&P=M HPI Set Screw M3x4mm http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPD15&P=M Ofna Wheel 2.2" Truck Chrome RTR (2) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXCAN2&P= Last edited by thefordmccord; 02-11-2005 at 04:52 PM.

02-13-2005, 02:35 PM	#8
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	driveshaft extensions extending the driveshafts is easy. just cut the stock dogbones in half, file a flat spot about 1/8 wide, 1/16 from the end of the shaft. then get yerself a foot of 3/16 brake line (about 2 bucks at NAPA) and 4 3/16 airplane wheel collars at the LHS. cut the brake line to the length you need and file or Dremel a flat spot on the line, about 1/16 from the end. the flat spot on the brake line should be deep enough to go thru the wall of the tubing. then slide your wheel collar over the end of the brake line, making sure to line up the flat spot with the set screw. use blue Loctite to glue everything together. your cut-up dogbones will slide right into the brake line, and once the set screw is in place you'll have a sweet custom driveshaft. if you want to spiff it up, use some brass or aluminum tube to cover the wheel collars and make the shaft look all beefy. these driveshafts are stronger than the TLT's aluminum gears (found that out the hard way). and you could make one 36 inches long!

03-06-2005, 10:27 AM	#14
thefordmccord Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Carlisle, KY Posts: 327	The ofna wheels rock! Lots of width with no wheel spacers! I am getting ready to redo the whole truck though. I just purchased this truck here on ebay to rape for parts. I'm having way to much trouble with the belt, and my chain drive idea would be a plain bitch to do. Last edited by thefordmccord; 03-06-2005 at 10:31 AM.

03-06-2005, 09:12 PM	#17
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	stock shocks? i don't know about you guys, but i found the stock springs are way too soft when using extended links. as soon as you give it even a little gas, it leans over like a drunk and hangs there til you go into reverse. the stock shocks look nice, and they are approximately to scale, but the springs are far too weak. get some 1/10 scale shocks and the weakest springs you can find (Losi white or yellow)

02-10-2005, 08:32 PM	#2
fuzzhead Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Grand Forks, ND Posts: 620	yes you would need different shafts. just keep looking around and reading you have done good so far by finding out how to stretch. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!!

02-10-2005, 10:06 PM	#3
Plays_with_Toys I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO Posts: 2,129	New driveshafts are needed. I am pretty sure I covered that in the FAQ. There's a few ways to convert to different shafts using the stock gearbox, or you can swap in something like a Stampede tranny.

02-11-2005, 05:50 AM	#4
JeepDriver Newbie Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Concord Posts: 12	Play With Toys I went back and read the FAQ again and I am still not seeing any specifics on shafts. I am getting ready to order parts so I'd like to know what I need. For now I will not be going with a pede tranny but would like to extend the wheel base. Do I need sliders from a pede/rustler or from a Tmaxx? Or is there some other mod to the stock shafts when extending wheelbase? Thanks again for the FAQ. Mike

02-11-2005, 06:14 AM	#5
pedesrule Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 202	there are several options you can do. First off you could keep dogbones and just find some longer ones on tower. Theres loads and loads of them on there so finding exactly what you want should be a problem. Or you could go to slider shafts. Thats what i would recommend if you really wanna punish your rig. With dogbones theres always a chance of the dogbone fallin out (and believe me they aint easy to find) but with sliders even if they do come apart they dont go anywhere. Also the sliders dont bind like dogbones can and they definatly arent as picky about what angle they have to be at. i have a post in the sticky about using pede shafts on a stock tranny buts its a pretty hard mod.

02-11-2005, 06:25 AM	#6
JeepDriver Newbie Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Concord Posts: 12	Thanks Pedesrule. I read the whole post this time and I see what you are talking about. Thanks for the info. Mike

02-28-2005, 10:27 AM	#9
JeepDriver Newbie Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Concord Posts: 12	FordMcCord, Did you have to purchase 4 of these ? HPI Cup Joint 5x10x18mm http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXBSZ3&P=M Mike

03-01-2005, 05:29 AM	#12
JeepDriver Newbie Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Concord Posts: 12	Thanks for the reply. I spent some time working on it last night and decided to cut the dogbones and then sleeve them with brake line. I haven't finished the links yet so I haven't set the length of the shaft. I bought 3/16 brake line and 6/32 threaded rod to make the links. I cut the brake line then ream it out slightly with a 9/64 bit and the threaded rod fits very snuggly. I also bought Traxxas ball ends for the links. I am aiming for about an 11" wheelbase with Swamp Dawgs and Dodge Power Wagon body. I'll take some pics when I get the chassis sorted. Mike

03-06-2005, 10:16 AM	#13
Frkan Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Crafty mexicans and your glass candy... Posts: 216	hey fordmaccord, How are those ofna wheels working? i was thinking of getting some of those for my tlt.

03-06-2005, 01:34 PM	#15
Frkan Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Crafty mexicans and your glass candy... Posts: 216	sweet thanks

03-06-2005, 03:38 PM	#16
JeepDriver Newbie Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Concord Posts: 12	Well I got it extended. I used 3/16 brake line and 6/32 threaded rod to make my links. I extended the wheelbase to 11". For driveshafts I cut the dogbones in half and sleeved them with brake line. I used my mig welder to weld the dogbone into the brake line. I used the longer of the original links to attach to the canitlever arms so I could still use the stock suspension. Seems to work fine so far. I'll try to get some pics. Mike.

Sponsored Links

09-07-2008, 02:26 PM	#18
KnutKase Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Placerville Posts: 145	Having similar problems with extended Goliath, used longer dogbones (I forget now where they are from) but I am not happy with them wanting to bind at full droop. How hard would it be to switch to sliders, what parts would I need... And of course it wants to lean over under throttle, it still has stock shocks (laydown mounts) with cantilevers attached to clamps on custom lower links... I am considering making up some leaf springs for it, about 12" or so in length (made out of a broken chain-saw pull cord recoil spring) that would be mounted (length-wise) to the chassis on each side with a pivot in the middle and a mount at each end to the axles. In theory this should encourage articulation, reduce chassis twist under throttle, and only slightly change the suspensions ability to absorb bumps... What do you think?

09-07-2008, 07:10 PM	#19
backtrailzracer Newbie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Naperville Posts: 22	i dont know how you got your axles set up but moving the link mount to the back of the axle is one of the best things you can do also shaving the bottom of the case makes a huge diffrance

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