Easy method of mounting MAXX driveshafts

[mascman]

Others have done this method and say that it works well. I hope my little pictorial will help somebody out. I was a little confused after reading the wealth of info on this site...sometimes a pic can clear up that confusion.

For me, the fact that I didn't have to drill out the pinion shaft on the diffs made it a no-brainer for me! I already had them assembled and stabbed my finger trying to drill them out...I didn't want to disassemble them.


Here is a blurry pic showing what we start and end with:



Use the 3/8" bit to drill out the bulk of the plastic. I found one of my grinding stones was the perfect diameter to match the TLT drive cup which made the fit nice and tight.

Now, take the drive cup and your dremel or a drill bit and open the slot so that your screw pin for the MAXX shaft will go through it. I drilled the one side larger so some of the screw threads could go into the slot.

You will need to shorten the drive cup so your shaft can rotate without binding...do this after drilling or dremelling the holes.


This is what you now have:



Assemble the shaft and drive cup:



Bolted to the axle:



To bolt up the tranny...this shaft was modded using the Traxxas #4927x Output Yokes which is explained in a thread by Bender.
Shaggin' Wagon................The Begining of Stage 2

To mount the yoke, I made a ball joint tool from an old screwdriver.



I put the yoke in hot water for a couple minutes and slid it on with no problems...too easy!

I used the dremel to grind away some of the plastic on the trans to gain some extra clearance for the yokes.


Here is the final product.



Aside from the MAXX shafts, which I already had, it was $6.00 for the yokes.

[chivas72]

awsome write up gonna do this onmy next build

thanks for the thread

[mrpink]

looks nice and strong.... good job there.

let us know how it holds up!

[racerx]

I don't know why I never thought of the hot water trick before, I have broke a few yokes trying to force the joint in. Nice idea on the tool also!

[mascman]

Originally Posted by racerx

I don't know why I never thought of the hot water trick before, I have broke a few yokes trying to force the joint in. Nice idea on the tool also!

Glad I can contribute to the cause!! I remember when I joined this site in the beginnning...sure has grown since I was gone! I may actually build a crawler this time!

The tool idea was from www.swami-rc.com ...he's heavy into Stampedes.

Soak the yoke in HOT water, slip the ball in on one side and hold the yoke down on the table while using the tool to push the ball's pin in. Takes a couple seconds and is slick as ****t!

I held the yoke together with pliers and ran it under cold water to make sure it was tight.

[chivas72]

did you have to modify any part of the tranny ? ? ? to give way for the yoke/shaft

[TLTCrawlin]

All i did was take maxx yoke, put pin in, slit into outdrive slot, tightened where it wouldnt bind. and bam its done! Impossible to come out!

[chivas72]

Originally Posted by ClodCrawlin

All i did was take maxx yoke, put pin in, slit into outdrive slot, tightened where it wouldnt bind. and bam its done! Impossible to come out!

pics

[dotson]

YOU THE MAN LOL I JUST DID THIS ON MINE LIKE 5 MIN AGO.

[mascman]

Originally Posted by chivas72

did you have to modify any part of the tranny ? ? ? to give way for the yoke/shaft

As fas as MODIFYING the tranny...No. You will need to have the Traxxas #4927x Output Yokes to bolt them up. They are smaller in diameter than the original ones on the Maxx shafts.

I did shave some of the material from the tranny just because I have a 12" WB and it looked close due to the angle of the shafts. I did some dremeling anywhere i thought it was close just in case, like around the yokes, etc.

With the SW2 chassis, Bender designed it to use the longer mounting points...that's where I shaved it down for driveshaft clearance.

It's pretty close but doesn't seem to be rubbing.

I alos read where some say that you can only fit an 84T gear, but I'm running the 87T spur gear and have enough clearance for the Maxx yokes.

Before you ask...can't get pics as everything is bolted together now! ;)

[mascman]

Just a little update to say that everything is holding up well!

[chivas72]

hey mascman

does your rear drive shafts hit the bottom link ? ? ?

mine his on one rear passanger side

[mascman]

Originally Posted by chivas72

hey mascman

does your rear drive shafts hit the bottom link ? ? ?

mine his on one rear passanger side

I just flipped the truck over and checked.

The front actually rubs more. The rear hits too. If the links were spaced out a little it wouldn't hit.

Never noticed it being a problem during crawling.

[chivas72]

yep both of mine are hitting might just go back to pedes or just wait till my r2 disconnect gets here and then figure it out

[TLTCrawlin]

my sw2 rubbed when articulating the LR tire up,I think it was Left Rear, my 60/40 XRC doesnt

[mascman]

I don't think it is rubbing bad enough to worry about.

I still have plenty of articulation...you don't need 90° to have a good crawler.

I just realized that you said you are hitting on the BOTTOM link.

Mine hits on the TOP. I can fix it by just spacing it over a little, but I don't think it's hurting it too much.

[chivas72]

correction it is the top links they are hitting on

as soon as i get my anodized shocks back iw ill take out on the test drive and see how much this problem really affects it

[mascman]

Originally Posted by chivas72

correction it is the top links they are hitting on

as soon as i get my anodized shocks back iw ill take out on the test drive and see how much this problem really affects it

I moved my shocks and no rubbing now.

[FrankyRizzo]

I just drill them out enough to fit over the output shaft not the cup. Then I cross drill the shaft and then the maxx piece. Then I use a Maxx cross pin through both. This way it leaves more meat around the maxx piece.

[chivas72]

Originally Posted by mascman

I moved my shocks and no rubbing now.

I just drill them out enough to fit over the output shaft not the cup. Then I cross drill the shaft and then the maxx piece. Then I use a Maxx cross pin through both. This way it leaves more meat around the maxx piece.

Pics ? ? ?

i have no shocks on right now and i dont see how shock placement would make the drive shafts and the top link not hit