Axel questions...

[J_Bone]

OK, I was first using a Stealth tranny and I drilled out the yokes on a set of T-Maxx axels. But I've since then, I've bought an R2 tranny and can not use yokes that have been modified. So I bought some Traxxas Steel Drive Yoke Set (2 each) #4628X but the Uni part is too small/narrow for the T-maxx axels.
What axels are the Steel yokes for?

[Natedog]

Stampede or JATO.

[BENDER]

The metal yokes should be for the Stampede.

[J_Bone]

ok, thanks!
Do the Stampede axels hold up?

[Fox]

Axel?

[J_Bone]

Originally Posted by Fox

Axel?

:-( I wouldn't admit to liking Axel If I were you..

[Wrecker]

Originally Posted by J_Bone

ok, thanks!
Do the Stampede axels hold up?

Yeap, they should hold up just fine with the metal yokes.
I prefer the maxx shafts and yokes though.

[J_Bone]

Well, I got the parts and tried to put them together. I broke the white plastic yoke. How are they suppose to snap in with breaking them? I got the metal yoke in.

[Thorsteenster]

Originally Posted by J_Bone

:-( I wouldn't admit to liking Axel If I were you..

uh, its probably because you've mispelled axle everytime you typed it

[J_Bone]

I didn't ask why...

But ya, I did spell it wrong...evey time. Kind of like teh... typo's od happen.

[BENDER]

I think some people put the white yokes in hot water for a while right before installing them. It should help prevent breakage during assembly.

[J_Bone]

Originally Posted by BENDER

I think some people put the white yokes in hot water for a while right before installing them. It should help prevent breakage during assembly.

Cool deal, I will have to try that.

Thanks Bender!

[tjb]

I just did mine white ones tonight, I used a heat gun to warm mine, and used the slotted screw driver to put them together. worked slick. once you get them together, re-warm them and squeeze them with a pliers if they stay opened a bit.....

[Thorsteenster]

once or twice is a typo, every time is not knowing how to spell it.

i used some needle nose, it was a PITA but they did go on. they kept popping off too with a txt trans and novak crawler. they get easier too put on each time
although now they dont stay on very well at all....lol

actually the problem i was having is the the cross pin in the u-joint kept sliding out until it was completely out of half of the yoke at wich point it would throw the shaft.

[J_Bone]

Originally Posted by tjb

I just did mine white ones tonight, I used a heat gun to warm mine, and used the slotted screw driver to put them together. worked slick. once you get them together, re-warm them and squeeze them with a pliers if they stay opened a bit.....

Sweet, I was going to try that today. Instead I bought the steel ones so each end has steel yokes now.

[J_Bone]

Originally Posted by thorsteenster

once or twice is a typo, every time is not knowing how to spell it.

I've repeatedly missed typed so many different words I know how to spell, I don't think you know me well enough to tell me I don’t know how to spell. Sorry I didn't proof read it or catch it after I posted them all, but I do know how to spell. Granted I was no spelling Bee champion but I wasn’t looking at my grammar either.

Ok, Mr. Spelling champion, looks like you don't know how to spell either? Bullit = bullet, broof = proof, and alu = Aluminum.

Originally Posted by thorsteenster

geez, whats the big fawkin deal, you'll be able to build bullit broof tlt axles soon. you pay 70 bucks for a kit, you use the axles and set the rest aside. maybe you get a rc4wd spool or the rcp spool due out soon, maybe along with a set of rc4wd tlt axles or cvds. you get some c-hubs and some alu knucks. after all that you have some cut up and cut down $70 axle housings.

I guess neither of us knows how to spell.

Thanks for the axel tips….