RCCrawler Forums

mrbenn · 07-11-2007, 07:13 AM

Hi all,

Are there any 'golden rules' or particular dimensions to bear in mind when designing a tube chassis for tlt axels?

• total length
• lenght of links
• height between lower and uppler ling attachment points
• horizontal/vertical position of shock in relation to links
• angle of shock
• width of chassis

etc, etc.

Thorsteenster · 07-11-2007, 07:14 AM

http://www.usrcca.com/rules2007.pdf

LIKES2CRAWL · 07-11-2007, 11:05 AM

These are specs for a tuber "IF" you want to compete, other than that.

2.2 Crawler class tube chassis are allowed with the following restrictions. Overall dimension of the
complete chassis must be at least 8"overall length, 3" overall width, and 3.75" overall height, the roof
must be raised from the main chassis to resemble a cockpit, and it must have solid hood, roof and sidepanels.
Tube chassis’ should resemble a 1:1 vehicle.

mrbenn · 07-12-2007, 01:30 AM

thanks fellas,

aside from competition specs. does anyone have pointers/dimensions for the realtive position of the lower link, upper link and shock?

I attempting to pass on a tuber design to a freind to braze up for me, but want to try and get it right first time.

xjwalt666 · 07-12-2007, 05:50 AM

just look around at the other designs and see what you like. usually they are triangulated 4 links. with the uppers almost parellel(sp?) to the ground. then just work it til you find your sweet spot. and with the shocks its all about the placement that works with your links.

4link4eva · 07-12-2007, 02:36 PM

My main recommendations for tuber designs are:

Keep the lower and upper link mounting points roughly the same distance apart on the chassis as they are on the axle, this keeps you from getting any 'squatting', and makes the whole truck climb better.

Don't lay down the rear shocks too much, this is also to prevent the truck from squatting.

Triangulate the links as much as you can, bump steer is really annoying.

mrpink · 07-12-2007, 07:30 PM

design the tuber around the suspension, not the other way around. I have built alot of awesome looking tubers, just to find out there is no way to get a good operating suspension hooked up. very annoying and time consuming. getting it right on your first shot is very tough.

Defender · 07-12-2007, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrbenn

thanks fellas,

aside from competition specs. does anyone have pointers/dimensions for the realtive position of the lower link, upper link and shock?

I attempting to pass on a tuber design to a freind to braze up for me, but want to try and get it right first time.

try a search for "squat and anit-squat" I know I've seen a few threads about this. It talks about how the position of the upper and lower links affect this.

sicj · 07-12-2007, 10:34 PM

-When I build I start with the base which is the bottom of the chassis where the transmission sits. I get that built up to about the midline of the total height it's going to be.

-Then I add the lower link mounts and make the links so I set the axles out exactly 12.5" stub to stub.

-Now I have a reference as to where the axles will be and then I add the shocks and get them at the angle I want them.

-Build up the back of the chassis where the shocks are. Mount the shocks.

-Build up the roof after the back being built.

-Then finish off the front end with the nose and shock mounting positions

JIA's Dad · 07-12-2007, 11:17 PM

I have noticed that not everyone has the same idea of what a good setup is. So when I designed the Cobra I opted to try to allow people a choice of shock and link locations. While still trying to allow people a choice in transmissions and axles. I wanted to build something everyone could setup the way they wanted. Springs or droop, high or low. It seems there is no certain, totally correct setup or we would all be driving the same thing. I know I certainly don't know what is totally correct. That's what I'm striving for daily.
There are some who think they have it right. When you see only one mounting hole for shock mounting points and link mounting points you have to think these people are experts and have totally figured out the perfect setup. Or at least feel they have it correct. And they very well could have. But if you give that frame to several different people, you will still see it setup differently from one person to another other.
I couldn't tell you the correct measurements for the best tuber. But looking at whats out there to choose from I'd say you have several good choices already!!!!!
To build a tuber you just have to choose what your want you rig to look like and how you want to set it up. Then don't build anything the doesn't look like what you had envisioned mentally. Good luck!!!!

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL VENDORS!!!!!!!!

mrbenn · 07-13-2007, 03:32 AM

Thanks everyone

this was just the kind of info i was looking for.

07-11-2007, 07:13 AM	#1
mrbenn Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the gutter, south west london Posts: 62	designing a tuber Hi all, Are there any 'golden rules' or particular dimensions to bear in mind when designing a tube chassis for tlt axels? • total length • lenght of links • height between lower and uppler ling attachment points • horizontal/vertical position of shock in relation to links • angle of shock • width of chassis etc, etc.

07-12-2007, 11:17 PM	#10
JIA's Dad Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Midway Posts: 836	I have noticed that not everyone has the same idea of what a good setup is. So when I designed the Cobra I opted to try to allow people a choice of shock and link locations. While still trying to allow people a choice in transmissions and axles. I wanted to build something everyone could setup the way they wanted. Springs or droop, high or low. It seems there is no certain, totally correct setup or we would all be driving the same thing. I know I certainly don't know what is totally correct. That's what I'm striving for daily. There are some who think they have it right. When you see only one mounting hole for shock mounting points and link mounting points you have to think these people are experts and have totally figured out the perfect setup. Or at least feel they have it correct. And they very well could have. But if you give that frame to several different people, you will still see it setup differently from one person to another other. I couldn't tell you the correct measurements for the best tuber. But looking at whats out there to choose from I'd say you have several good choices already!!!!! To build a tuber you just have to choose what your want you rig to look like and how you want to set it up. Then don't build anything the doesn't look like what you had envisioned mentally. Good luck!!!! SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL VENDORS!!!!!!!! Last edited by JIA's Dad; 07-13-2007 at 06:57 AM.

07-11-2007, 07:14 AM	#2
Thorsteenster I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 3,377	http://www.usrcca.com/rules2007.pdf

07-11-2007, 11:05 AM	#3
LIKES2CRAWL I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: KENNEWICK, WA Posts: 2,513	These are specs for a tuber "IF" you want to compete, other than that. 2.2 Crawler class tube chassis are allowed with the following restrictions. Overall dimension of the complete chassis must be at least 8"overall length, 3" overall width, and 3.75" overall height, the roof must be raised from the main chassis to resemble a cockpit, and it must have solid hood, roof and sidepanels. Tube chassis’ should resemble a 1:1 vehicle.

07-12-2007, 01:30 AM	#4
mrbenn Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the gutter, south west london Posts: 62	thanks fellas, aside from competition specs. does anyone have pointers/dimensions for the realtive position of the lower link, upper link and shock? I attempting to pass on a tuber design to a freind to braze up for me, but want to try and get it right first time.

07-12-2007, 05:50 AM	#5
xjwalt666 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: colchester Posts: 496	just look around at the other designs and see what you like. usually they are triangulated 4 links. with the uppers almost parellel(sp?) to the ground. then just work it til you find your sweet spot. and with the shocks its all about the placement that works with your links.

07-12-2007, 02:36 PM	#6
4link4eva RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: In England, looking for the threadlock... Posts: 1,150	My main recommendations for tuber designs are: Keep the lower and upper link mounting points roughly the same distance apart on the chassis as they are on the axle, this keeps you from getting any 'squatting', and makes the whole truck climb better. Don't lay down the rear shocks too much, this is also to prevent the truck from squatting. Triangulate the links as much as you can, bump steer is really annoying.

07-12-2007, 07:30 PM	#7
mrpink RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: trying to find out what a TVuPer is..... Posts: 1,851	design the tuber around the suspension, not the other way around. I have built alot of awesome looking tubers, just to find out there is no way to get a good operating suspension hooked up. very annoying and time consuming. getting it right on your first shot is very tough.

07-12-2007, 10:34 PM	#9
sicj Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 427	-When I build I start with the base which is the bottom of the chassis where the transmission sits. I get that built up to about the midline of the total height it's going to be. -Then I add the lower link mounts and make the links so I set the axles out exactly 12.5" stub to stub. -Now I have a reference as to where the axles will be and then I add the shocks and get them at the angle I want them. -Build up the back of the chassis where the shocks are. Mount the shocks. -Build up the roof after the back being built. -Then finish off the front end with the nose and shock mounting positions

07-13-2007, 03:32 AM	#11
mrbenn Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the gutter, south west london Posts: 62	Thanks everyone this was just the kind of info i was looking for.

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