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Old 06-24-2004, 11:15 AM   #1
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Default TLT-1 Questions

Hi, I am thinking about getting the Tamiya TLT-1 and I have a few questions. First I should start off saying this will be my first electric. I also will mostly be running it in my house crawling over stuff or outside on rocks crawling. So there is no need for it to go above 15 mph(at the most). I want it to have a lot of torque. I will mainly be using it for crawling over stuff in my house(books, tapes, shoes, boards, etc.) or rocks. So here are some of my main questions. I want to try and stay away from lengthening it part of the appeal of it to me is it's size.

1.) I have noticed a few people that have raised the ground clearance by .75 inches without tires. How do you do this.

2.) I want a good motor that is torquey, can go at least 8-10 mph, you don't have to do a lot of maintenance on, and also gets decent run time(15-20 minutes or more)

3.) I also need an ESC. I don't want some super great one. Like I said before I only will run it in the house or on rocks. I want it to have brake and be able to go into reverse but I don't want the brake to be reverse.

4.) Is there a cheap way to get it to have more suspension articulation.

Those are some questions to start it off. I'm sure I will have more with the more information I gather. Thanks for all the help.


JamEs
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Old 06-24-2004, 11:34 AM   #2
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Default Re: TLT-1 Questions

1) More ground clearance is most easily achieved by switching to sliders, instead of dog bones, which allows great angles of the driveline. There are also aftermarket chassis' that allow for this. Tires are obviously going to help it, and in fact, I would HIGHLY recommend new tires, as the clearance under the axles is pitiful with the stock tires.

2) Get a P2K or P2k2, or if you can find them, the Matrix stock motors are sweeeeet. That's what I run, but almost no one carries them. They are torquey, and if you're going to be crawling it shouldn't get too hot and with decent batteries, you should get a good 15min run time atleast. I am averaging about 30min with SMC2400 NiCds and my matrix.

3) I just ordered the Super F1 Reverse. Its $75 and can go down to 12turns I believe with reverse, brake, and programmable reverse cancel. I'll tell you how it is, but I've read good things.

4) It actually has pretty decent suspension, the biggest thing is switching out the balls to traxxas balls, I didn't get much more articulation, maybe 5* overall, but it seemed more fluid.

I would actually recommend lengthening it, but only by maybe 1/2" I don't know if you're on RCMT, but most guys there are running it still at "1:18" but slightly longer wheelbase. This allows them to get more ground clearance, because the drive shafts can go even lower without having to increase angle (and in fact you can run dog bones now at an increased angle, which can save you cost there), and allows for more stability so you don't roll backwards while crawling.

Make sure to check out my little FAQ/tips thing. For 2.2" tire I'd recommend the dirt hawgs, they gave me plenty of grip around my bedroom. You can also fit Wild Willy wheels and tires, which are still smaller than 2.2" but have even side walls for the tires on either side and I believe are slightly larger.
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Old 06-24-2004, 12:15 PM   #3
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Default Re: TLT-1 Questions

Thanks for the help. More opinions would be appreciated. Also would dirt hawgs fit on the stock rims or would you need different rims.


JamEs
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Old 06-24-2004, 12:21 PM   #4
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Default Re: TLT-1 Questions

You'd need new wheels.

The stock wheels are oddly shaped. The outside has a small diameter, so the tire appears tall. The inside of the wheel is very large though, so the inside of the tire has a smaller side wall. So basically you would need two different sized inner diameters for a new tire to fit.

Most 2.2" wheels will fit it no problem though.
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:40 AM   #5
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Default Re: TLT-1 Questions

Is the Team Orion 23x1 Havok Motor any good for crawling. I hear it can flip the TLT-1 over so I would think it would be. Also what would the runtime be with the Tamiya battery pack made espicially for the TLT-1.


JamEs
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:16 PM   #6
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I think you need to choose if you want a basher or a crawler. Your list of things wanted in a "crawler" won't work. A basher will crawl a little, but 23 turn motors, 10 MPH, and no change in wheel base, it will not crawl. It will fall over and launch itself every time you try to get up on anything.

If I were you I would think more about what you really want to do with this truck.
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:21 PM   #7
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1:18 nylint tires will fit with the stock rims narrowed.

at least it looks like it will work. they have the
same bigger inter bead & smaller diamater<(misspelled i believe)
outer bead.
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:33 PM   #8
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1:18 Nylints are way to skinny.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:13 PM   #9
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i have a tlt question also..

where can i get those slip driveshafts with the little u-joints everybody is runnin??
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:22 PM   #10
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OMG! Did anyone stop and look how old this thread is...It was started in 2004 almost 2 years ago...Wow...I think he has gotten his answer, and if not he has quit the hobby already...

Just thought I would put in my 2 cents.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:25 PM   #11
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That is funny, never even looked
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:42 PM   #12
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There's an article on the Tamiya site that makes the stock TLT into a better crawler: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=135.

1) I agree with PWT, definitely get some different wheels and tires. If you want to keep it cheap, pick up some Stampede fronts wheels ($3.99 a pair @ my LHS) and some 2.2 tires. I have a pair of HPI Geolanders and they are smaller than the Moab's or Mashers and are plenty soft.

2) I'm running a 55T and get about 30+ minutes with IB1200's.

3) I'm using an LRP AI Pro ESC w/reverse. I think I payed $60-ish but I am sure there are others out there for less.

4) Definitely replace the ball ends. I would also recommend ditching the stock shocks and pick up some different shocks Associated's MAXX shocks are good and you can get 8 shocks for about $50. Although I'm not sure they will fit on the stock cantilevers. You may need visit the LHS and see what is available in a length similar to the stock ones. I found when switching out the stock shocks that articulation may not have increased a ton but, it was alot smoother.

Have fun and keep us updated on your progress.
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Old 02-13-2006, 10:02 PM   #13
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^Was typing K9popo was posting

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Don't think he will be updating us
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Old 02-13-2006, 10:40 PM   #14
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Doh!!! That'll teach me for not looking at the original post date first.
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Old 02-18-2006, 06:11 PM   #15
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Well, thanks for bringing it back around!! SO, with 2.2 wheels, if there is an option for front or rear rims as with the HPI's and RPM's, are the fronts the best way to go or the only way to go?
Tom
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Old 02-18-2006, 06:28 PM   #16
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For everything but the stampede you need REAR wheels. Fronts will only have holes for bearings. Rears will have hexes molded in.
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Old 02-18-2006, 06:46 PM   #17
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Thanks man, just for clarity, do you mind checking these links to make sure these rims would work?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXWX57&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXWX56&P=K description says front but its rear
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXJK63&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXMV45&P=K

Thanks and sorry for the noob questions, kit is still in the mail!
Tom
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Old 02-19-2006, 08:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metomwhou
Thanks man, just for clarity, do you mind checking these links to make sure these rims would work?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXWX57&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXWX56&P=K description says front but its rear
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXJK63&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXMV45&P=K

Thanks and sorry for the noob questions, kit is still in the mail!
Tom
Yaes they will all work I would recommend the 3rd ones down I just got a set and love the off set...
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Old 02-19-2006, 11:32 AM   #19
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Thanks man, I'm partial to those aswell! Did you paint yours or dye them or leave'em white? I'm thinking I'll probably just paint mine flat black, easy and done. Another question, is there a big difference in offset between the fronts and rears? The more offset the rim has, the more turning you get before rubbing starts, right??
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Old 02-19-2006, 03:38 PM   #20
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Mine are chrome so I just left them and put some rockrings on them. They look pretty sweet...
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