RCCrawler Forums

whoodie · 09-05-2007, 07:02 AM

Picked this tuber up from Mr. Pink a while back.

Novak Goat Brushless
Futaba 3PKS radio
Hitec 5955
6 cell Sub-c on the front axle
RC4WD R2
RCP Stage 5 TLT Axles

I just got some Losi Rock Claws today that I'll be putting on for this weekend.

Mr. Pink, I redid the belly pan. It is now .090" Alum so I could countersink everything and mount all the links to the pan, not the tubes. At first it was getting hung up on the screw heads. All of the links are handmade from aluminum barstock with jato rod ends. Stampede driveshafts and metal u-joints on the tranny and axle ends.

Seems to work real good right now, gonna see how the losi's help it out the weekend.

Let me know what you guys think!

chip cross · 09-05-2007, 07:05 AM

how do you like ''The Goat'' ?

whoodie · 09-05-2007, 07:20 AM

I think the Goat is awesome. I had a 27t brushed setup in there initially. With the Goat I had all of the control of the brush, but with more torque, awesome hill brakes (I have them set at only 7.5% now), and longer run time.

Nearly the same wheelspeed (maybe 5% less). I'm going up a tooth on the pinion for this weekend to get a little back. Right now I have an 8 tooth on there right now. The motor stays cold for over an hour and a half of straight crawling so I think that it is undergeared.

I have not tried sensorless and will probably never, this sensored system is amazing.

chip cross · 09-05-2007, 07:26 AM

good to hear that i guess i will have to try one out thanks for the info good lookin tuber

mrpink · 09-05-2007, 08:21 AM

Looks good....

Wow, .90 is THICK!!!!! I am glad to see a goat fitting in there; I am building one right now and was wondering if I can squeeze that huge can into that belly pan. Snap some shots from underneath, I really wanna see how far forward you had to mount the r2.

Once you get it all setup- tear is apart and get the thing powdercoated. That silver paint is really just to keep surface rust away.

I still love the look of that tuber, you going to make any panels for it?

whoodie · 09-05-2007, 10:52 AM

Yeah I want to get the tubes and pan powdercoated but I am waiting on the Associated chassis film to be re-released, no point in scratching up new PC if I don't have to.

I need to replace the front shock tube, specifically the all thread, one side has lost a few threads, plus it is not long enough for locknuts.

I need to make panels, yes I know, the ESC is kinda close to the edge of the tubes and one well placed rock can probably take it out. I suppose I need to learn to braze.

Sure .9" is thick, but I used .090", which is still thick, but I was able to get everything countersunk on the bottom, thats why I chose that thickness.

Here is a top down of the tub model I did in solidworks.

Here is another view

The Goat can is actually a tad shorter than a standard 540 can and endbell.

Lemme know if you need any more pics.

mrpink · 09-05-2007, 04:49 PM

great SW!!

yeah I meant to say .090"

the original one was .064" and I thought that was plenty thick- but you are right on the countersink.

I love the tray you made to mount the esc on.... great idea!! where did you get that wire loom? looks really clean.

whoodie · 09-05-2007, 05:33 PM

The wire loom is something I had left over from building my PC. You can get it from www.performance-pcs.com It is under the wire management section in cable sleeve. They sell it by the foot.

The original belly pan flexed whenever the wheels were bound up, so that and the countersinking made me go a bit thicker.

mrpink · 09-05-2007, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whoodie

The original belly pan flexed whenever the wheels were bound up, so that and the countersinking made me go a bit thicker.

I hadn't noticed anything like that, but good to know

I am thinking of switching to stainless for the belly pans.

whoodie · 09-05-2007, 06:28 PM

Stainless would be a better material choice because of its hardness, but I know from experience that it is tougher to work with. I'm a big fan of aluminum, most of my projects are done in aluminum unless I have strength issues.

halfcab · 09-05-2007, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whoodie

Stainless would be a better material choice because of its hardness, but I know from experience that it is tougher to work with. I'm a big fan of aluminum, most of my projects are done in aluminum unless I have strength issues.

stainless slides much better also without being too slippery

whoodie · 09-05-2007, 07:29 PM

Bad thing is it is kinda heavy :-(

mrpink · 09-05-2007, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whoodie

Bad thing is it is kinda heavy :-(

good thing is it is kinda heavy. and low

whoodie · 09-05-2007, 08:12 PM

True

chole · 09-05-2007, 09:48 PM

That is by far the cleanest wiring I have seen. I think that adds a nice touch, and just sets this tuber off.

whoodie · 09-06-2007, 07:17 AM

Thanks Chole, I wire up full size racecars in my spare time.

http://www.utafsae.com/

These are the racecars I build at school.

09-05-2007, 07:02 AM	#1
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	Mr. Pink's Little Ugly Picked this tuber up from Mr. Pink a while back. Novak Goat Brushless Futaba 3PKS radio Hitec 5955 6 cell Sub-c on the front axle RC4WD R2 RCP Stage 5 TLT Axles I just got some Losi Rock Claws today that I'll be putting on for this weekend. Mr. Pink, I redid the belly pan. It is now .090" Alum so I could countersink everything and mount all the links to the pan, not the tubes. At first it was getting hung up on the screw heads. All of the links are handmade from aluminum barstock with jato rod ends. Stampede driveshafts and metal u-joints on the tranny and axle ends. Seems to work real good right now, gonna see how the losi's help it out the weekend. Let me know what you guys think!

09-05-2007, 10:52 AM	#6
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	Yeah I want to get the tubes and pan powdercoated but I am waiting on the Associated chassis film to be re-released, no point in scratching up new PC if I don't have to. I need to replace the front shock tube, specifically the all thread, one side has lost a few threads, plus it is not long enough for locknuts. I need to make panels, yes I know, the ESC is kinda close to the edge of the tubes and one well placed rock can probably take it out. I suppose I need to learn to braze. Sure .9" is thick, but I used .090", which is still thick, but I was able to get everything countersunk on the bottom, thats why I chose that thickness. Here is a top down of the tub model I did in solidworks. Here is another view The Goat can is actually a tad shorter than a standard 540 can and endbell. Lemme know if you need any more pics. Last edited by whoodie; 09-05-2007 at 11:02 AM.

09-05-2007, 09:48 PM	#15
chole Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Big Rapids Posts: 69	That is by far the cleanest wiring I have seen. I think that adds a nice touch, and just sets this tuber off. Last edited by chole; 09-05-2007 at 09:48 PM. Reason: spelling

09-05-2007, 07:05 AM	#2
chip cross ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: In tha Bush of Louisiana Posts: 4,343	how do you like ''The Goat'' ?

09-05-2007, 07:20 AM	#3
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	I think the Goat is awesome. I had a 27t brushed setup in there initially. With the Goat I had all of the control of the brush, but with more torque, awesome hill brakes (I have them set at only 7.5% now), and longer run time. Nearly the same wheelspeed (maybe 5% less). I'm going up a tooth on the pinion for this weekend to get a little back. Right now I have an 8 tooth on there right now. The motor stays cold for over an hour and a half of straight crawling so I think that it is undergeared. I have not tried sensorless and will probably never, this sensored system is amazing.

09-05-2007, 07:26 AM	#4
chip cross ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: In tha Bush of Louisiana Posts: 4,343	good to hear that i guess i will have to try one out thanks for the info good lookin tuber

09-05-2007, 08:21 AM	#5
mrpink RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: trying to find out what a TVuPer is..... Posts: 1,851	Looks good.... Wow, .90 is THICK!!!!! I am glad to see a goat fitting in there; I am building one right now and was wondering if I can squeeze that huge can into that belly pan. Snap some shots from underneath, I really wanna see how far forward you had to mount the r2. Once you get it all setup- tear is apart and get the thing powdercoated. That silver paint is really just to keep surface rust away. I still love the look of that tuber, you going to make any panels for it?

09-05-2007, 04:49 PM	#7
mrpink RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: trying to find out what a TVuPer is..... Posts: 1,851	great SW!! yeah I meant to say .090" the original one was .064" and I thought that was plenty thick- but you are right on the countersink. I love the tray you made to mount the esc on.... great idea!! where did you get that wire loom? looks really clean.

09-05-2007, 05:33 PM	#8
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	The wire loom is something I had left over from building my PC. You can get it from www.performance-pcs.com It is under the wire management section in cable sleeve. They sell it by the foot. The original belly pan flexed whenever the wheels were bound up, so that and the countersinking made me go a bit thicker.

09-05-2007, 06:28 PM	#10
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	Stainless would be a better material choice because of its hardness, but I know from experience that it is tougher to work with. I'm a big fan of aluminum, most of my projects are done in aluminum unless I have strength issues.

09-05-2007, 07:29 PM	#12
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	Bad thing is it is kinda heavy :-(

09-05-2007, 08:12 PM	#14
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	True

09-06-2007, 07:17 AM	#16
whoodie Moderator Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas baby! Posts: 1,498	Thanks Chole, I wire up full size racecars in my spare time. http://www.utafsae.com/ These are the racecars I build at school.

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