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Thread: TLT axles, pede rims - no threads

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Old 04-27-2005, 02:31 PM   #1
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Default TLT axles, pede rims - no threads

Well I'm trying to fit some pede front rims on my tlt axles and I can only get about 2 threads of the axle to stick thru the pede rim for the nut to thread onto.... Did I do something wrong????? Or do I have some just really thick rims.

I want to buy the longer super blackfoot axles but Tower is all out of stock right now and my LHS does do tamiya stuff.... plus I'm not even sure if that will fix this problem.. Just curious if there is a quick fix.

Last edited by 4RnrRick; 04-27-2005 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:55 PM   #2
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Rick,

The nitro rustler rear wheels are thiner at the axle, than thr elect. wheels.

I B..

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Old 04-27-2005, 02:55 PM   #3
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Default quick fix

the quick fix is called a Dremel tool: use the stone cylinder to grind down the center portion of the wheel (on the nut side) until it's skinny enough. or use a thinner wheel. Duratrax Maximum ST wheels bolt on fine and have a nice deep offset. plus they're chrome
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:04 PM   #4
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I also found this, Tamiya TG10-(SP-808 Long Axle), and (OP-345 Wide Hex) for the TL-01

Wild Dagger Wheels, (0445720)

This came from R/c car action

I B..
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I B RACIN
I also found this, Tamiya TG10-(SP-808 Long Axle), and (OP-345 Wide Hex) for the TL-01

Wild Dagger Wheels, (0445720)

This came from R/c car action

I B..

Is that these part numbers?
#50808 or #LXGM26
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGM26&P=7

#53345 or #LXGF21
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...21&FVPROFIL=++

Tower is also currently out of stock on those....
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microgoat
the quick fix is called a Dremel tool:...
I just never heard of this problem and before I started cutting stuff I wanted to know how common this was.....
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Old 04-27-2005, 04:08 PM   #7
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Rick, yes thats the parts.

Do you have elect. stampede wheels or the nitro?
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Old 04-27-2005, 04:23 PM   #8
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these are the wheels I have.....

Traxxas Front Wheel 2.2" Nylon
These are FRONT nylon rims for the Traxxas electric Rustler, electric Stampede, and any other Traxxas vehicles which use a hex-style drive washer. These will NOT work on the Nitro Rustler or Nitro Stampede

Traxxas # 3675
Tower Hobbies # LXJK63
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJK63&P=7
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:10 PM   #9
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hi, new guy here. I also have the electric stampede wheels and had the same problem. the TG-10 axles worked great for me, and still have thread to spare.
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:21 PM   #10
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Rick,

These are the wheels I have on my stampede crawler http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZS52&P=ML

The rear nitro wheel will work, it has a thiner mounting aera around the axle, because the nitro rustler uses a thicker hex.

Torry

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Old 04-27-2005, 05:44 PM   #11
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I had the same problem with RPM rims for the rear of a Nitro Rustler. I used Dremel to get them to work. You may want to try turning the nut around, I did that and the tapered side of the nut will dig itself a hole in the rim letting you tighten it more. Also my RPM rims want to slip on my INET wheel widners when the truck get into a bad bind (on the plus side that keeps me from breaking axles)
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Old 04-27-2005, 06:16 PM   #12
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I drilled mine about 3/16" deep with a 1/2" drill.
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Old 04-27-2005, 07:56 PM   #13
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i got both the front and rear electric rustler wheels.


besides the fronts being a much wider offset, they also have a thicker section of plastic which doesnt leave alot of thread.

the rear rims have a little recessed area in them that the wheel nut countersinks into and you got plenty of threads, although you get a less wider rig by using them.
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Old 04-28-2005, 08:16 AM   #14
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Thanks for the helps guys..... Last night I just used the dremel to remove about 1/8" to 3/16" of the material around the center hub. that looked to work pretty good.

I also have the rear version of my rims but they have so much backspacing that the inner bead on the rim hits the steer arm....
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