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Thread: So, i`m working on an TXT-1

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Old 12-18-2005, 12:25 PM   #1
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Default So, i`m working on an TXT-1

About 6 months or so i got my hands on one stock TXT-1.
The plan was to make it inn to an awsome crowler, and now i have started to do some modelling...

This is my first stepps innto the world of crawlers so i would like some comments frome you experts... is this totaly way off..?

i hope the links to the pic`s are working....

Tanx











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Old 12-18-2005, 12:37 PM   #2
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Nice work, I really like the design.

I would add a little bracing around the 4-link mounts on the chassis.

Maybe something like this.....
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Old 12-18-2005, 12:44 PM   #3
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do you think that is needed..? the side plates is 6mm alu.
and there will be solid alu. spacer betwen the sideplates...
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Old 12-18-2005, 12:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pole
do you think that is needed..? the side plates is 6mm alu.
and there will be solid alu. spacer betwen the sideplates...
If you're going to brace it near the link mounts, you will probably be fine.
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:16 PM   #5
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or i can be on the safe side and make it like this...

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Old 12-18-2005, 01:22 PM   #6
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That looks sweet too.

Personally, I'd rather over build a little then underbuild. It would be a bummer to have an unexpected harsh roll and bend your frame.
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:29 PM   #7
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jupp... i agree
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Old 12-18-2005, 03:34 PM   #8
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looks good. are you gonna leave your tranny in the stock position like that? you can achieve a much lower COG by cutting and re-doing the mounts on the tranny. just a thought
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Old 12-18-2005, 03:40 PM   #9
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Definitely looks cool, I like the design. 6mm will be PLENTY rigid. Also (already mentioned I believe), you'll get a lot better CG if you shaved the tranny, layed it down on its side, and made new tranny mounts.

Here's a pic of what mine look like at the moment, and the shaved tranny. FYI, if you plan on doing the shaved/clocked mod, the distance between sideplates need to be right at 4.0".

-WRM
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:55 AM   #10
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i might change the tanny mount.. it realy lowers the CG...


annyhow.. i talked to some guys at an Norwegian forum and one of the said that i might wanto make the chassis little thinner at the lower link mount.. so there would be less of the chassis to hit rocks and so on....

what do you think... i now have to make the lower links 20mm longer than on the pic`s posted before...

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Old 12-19-2005, 10:39 AM   #11
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That sounds like a good idea, but with the upper links being much shorter than the lowers, won't the pinion angle be severely out of whack on suspension droop and compression?

I'm not the expert on 4 links, but that's the way it sounds to me.

-WRM
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Old 12-19-2005, 12:10 PM   #12
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i don`t know... hehe...

but do you think it would be just as good making it like on the first pic`s... there the links more equal...
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Old 12-19-2005, 12:17 PM   #13
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Your second design would probably work well if you can get the links closer to the same length. Maybe move the upper link attachment point (axle end) further away from the chassis, or the lower link attachment point (axle end) closer to the chassis. ??

Maybe something like what I'm doing would benefit this design?
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Old 12-19-2005, 12:21 PM   #14
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hey... awsome pic`s

how did you mount that lower link and the suspension...??
looks like somthing is mounted into the axel...? am i rigth..
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:32 PM   #15
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Yep, there are metal link/shock attachment points mounted inside the axle. This keeps the top of the axle free to mount the batts for a really low CG (for a shafty). Here's a link to the build thread:

My TXT in progress...

Hope this helps,
WRM
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:38 PM   #16
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hey pole, cool models. are they farely accurate? (the axles and tranny) Wouldn't be interested in sending those files out for other people to mess with would you?
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Old 12-19-2005, 04:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pole
i might change the tanny mount.. it realy lowers the CG...
annyhow.. i talked to some guys at an Norwegian forum and one of the said that i might wanto make the chassis little thinner at the lower link mount.. so there would be less of the chassis to hit rocks and so on....
HUH ??? me??? NOooo,,,,,

Yea I think it's great right now, but not thinner just shorter in the
lower end. And pole I think your chassi looks awesome man.
I wish i had the skills like yours.
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Old 12-20-2005, 03:08 AM   #18
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That last design you made looked much better, i would go with that and try to make it as ääj8äu2.. sorry for that, my hamster lillplutt took over the keyboard for a second ;)
As i was trying to say, make it as strong as you can, but try to keep the weight down and the cog down if you want comp crawl.

But hey, im a newbie at this and still learning from the many pro builders and crawlers in here. But i like it more and more for each day, and it's fun to mod and change things;)

Keep that thing going, you have a nice design there, would love to see how it turns out. And please keep us updated with pictures as you go along.

Good luck !
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Old 12-20-2005, 06:56 AM   #19
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i`m going fore the last design... an i will mount the lower links and the suspension like WRMorrison has... then the 4 links will be fairly equal... :-P and i can mount the battery on the front axel...

I wil do the tranny clock mod... hehe... but not quite yet i think, as i can fit the shaved tranny in the same chassis\sideplates as i have posted pic`s of without changing them...

so i think i wil make it with the tranny at stock position at first.. thats the easyest to do... the when i know the suspension geometry are working ok i can do the tranny mod... or i can at least make the chassis and mount it together with links and suspesion before i startr to cut the tranny to pices... hehe
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:56 AM   #20
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oki.. so. anybody got some comments on this..?



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